cuthound

They are all on the Coventry. I've never seen it so busy!

Mentioning "horizon" regarding software updates surely is not the best idea...

Likewise and it avoids any potential repainting issues with silicon causing "fish eyes" in new paint.

DC generators (mains driven) for telecomms equipment and battery charging.

My first experience of DC isolators were sprung edge knife switches on DC switchboards like the one in the photo. The springs had to be periodically changed because when they lost tension some really spectacular arcs could be drawn, much to the detriment of the isolator switch!

As well as a higher current rating, DC isolators should have a shorter "arc time" (the switch opens faster) to minimize the racing which continues on DC, whereas AC automatically goes down to zero every 50mS as it changes from the positive half cycle to the negative half cycle of the sine wave.

But the canals are rarely deep enough for that these days...

Of course, if you move the boat a reasonable distance every day, it will charge the batteries and heat the water without the need for any solar.

That could be the result of testing the prototype "Float-A-Poo"...

Excrementate, excrementate... Damn, I see @Russ T got there first.

Yes, but then you have to provide alternative drainage facilities where roads drain into canals.

When I was buying my boat the insulation was described as rockwool. My surveyor said it is OK provided measures have been taken to stop it reaching the baseplate, as it wicks any water there up, causing rust on the inside of the cabin sides. On hearing this I removed the trim boxing in the heating pipes in the bathroom, to find the insulation was 3M Thinsulate, glued to the cabin sides. It has turned out to be good, providing almost as much thermal insulation as sprayfoam but better noise insulation.

So did my first shareboat which was built in 1992. I agree, just take a look and the type of insulation will be obvious. On my boat I just removed a section of trim hiding the pipework to the bathroom radiator and voila, the insulation was visible.

Indeed, in 52 years boating I have only come across one boat that was definitely running his engine because of knackered batteries. I know this because he moored behind me, and knocked on my my boat to apologise for the fact that he would be running his engine to charge his knackered batteries so that he could watch the England football match that night. Not wanting my evening ruined by him running his engine after 8:00 pm, I solved the problem by inviting him onto my boat to watch the football with me. He provided the beer so win win.

I've had my boat 11 years now and only been down the weedhatch twice, despite covering some of the lesser used parts of the BCN. Once soon after I got the bost, when the prop fouling caused black smoke and loss of steerage and once when I got someone's cratch cover wrapped around the prop, which stalled the engine. However I do have a "prop protector" blade fitted. In the first instance it cleared whatever was round the prop by the time I had stopped and removed the weedhatch, and in the second case it failed to clear the obstruction, which took me over two hours to cut off.

To complete the traditional look you could saw the threaded part off two brass screws and attach them into the screw holes with a PU adhesive...

I wonder how often they change their socks?

It is probably because most "managers" in this country have zero managerial qualifications. These days companies prefer to poach staff rather than train their own.

Glad you are back Tim. Now that you have seen the Grim Reaper off for the time being, you can concentrate on getting better and posting on here in your own inimitable style.

Just back from a towpath walk with Sam and can report that the swans and the single female duck still have their original compliment of chicks.