waterworks

as you may know if your into this, in the U.S using waste motor oil is being tried in Lister CS engined offgrid generators, i haven't seen any reports that any engine has gone over 1200 hours on straight WMO without being seriously knackered, and the rebuild cost wiped out the fuel saving. (I am not on either side on this, so don't get your panties in a bunch.) I have access to a lifetimes free supply of the stuff, and i'm looking into using it if possible. It may not be. You can distill it, into a thin clean ( ish ) oil though, that may be the way forward. Just cause theres a single RN running on it is not really proof of anything.

from my humble experience please remember that the cushions MUST be on a breathable base, NOT ply. the moisture sinks to the underside of the cushions and turns into mould, rots the cushion covers ,and then gets into the wood. all the built in sofas iv'e seen are too hard, proper sofas have webbing supporting the cushions, nice and comfy, and don't give you DVT of the arse. Have you considered getting a sofa in the sales, and modifying it to fit, a bit of woodwork to the base will get you plenty of space for draws, or wicker baskets which are a nice cheat out of making draws. Presuming you can get it through the doors. I did that to an IKEA sofa, it worked out well, loose furniture is the way forward in my opinion, but i did find out why IKEA was so cheap, it was made of card board inside, and put together by a blind brain damaged chimp in China with an air stapler gun.

iv'e got a kipor 2000 geny for quiet battery charging, and 2 x 110 amp hour wet lead acid batteries, what charging rate do you reccomend ?

theres an alternator repair firm in the center of Uxbridge, ( where the OP is ) that has a good reputation, i don't know what their name is, or where they are, not helping much am i dad ! Maybe some one on here knows ? Get a service exchange on it, if it still don't work when it's dried out, ( put it in the oven ) save you a lot of drama, and you'll get a fully serviced machine with some kind of warrenty on it.

you have to have long term proof that there has been no increased engine wear or damage, and a calculation of the cost of high spec filters ( sub 10 micron )compared to the cost of clean fuel. Naturally waste motor oil is as filthy dirty fuel as you can get. unless your running a clapped out BMC thats due for rebuild, you would want to know for sure that your not gambling free fuel against very expensive new piston and liner sets on a vintage engine, and a top end rebuild in a couple of years time.

As a fellow reduced food hunter you'll love this....... i was in a Tesco in London well before Crimbo, and there was a mini riot with immigrants all over the floor scrabbling for reduced veges, one old biddy was pushed into the pile of bread crates !! i never seen anything like it, and iv'e been stocking my freezer on reductions for over 10 years, it really distgusted me that parts of this country have come to this.

i don't know what you mean by "black Diesel" but i know for a fact( i'm all over the research papers) that waste engine oil cannot be used as fuel in a Diesel engine, lubricating oil leaves behind an abrasive ash whether it is brand new, or used, filtering or cetrifuging, makes no difference to this. Bores, and pistons are destroyed faster than you can save any cost of Diesel fuel. If there was any possibility of using it as Diesel engine fuel i would be using it. On the subject of polishing, i think maybe you are reading scare stories, tanks should be drained off, and cleaned periodically, but not a constant polishing set up built in to the tiny tank on a average narrow boat is way over the top. For the average use of a canal boat a standard filter is fine. I use a preventative dose of Marine 16 all the time, on all my fuel now.

Are these Durite chargers any good ? As far as i know Durite don't make junk products. My linkfleabay[/url I only have 2 x 110 ah leisure batteries to charge, should i go for 20 or 30 amps ?

that reads like a your saying whatever they do you have to surrender and run away ? Not the way i do buisiness.

just google for your nearest supplier, it's best to collect yourself rather than have delivered due to the weight, heres one on line though... http://shop.vitcas.com/firebricks-230x114x32mm-37-p.asp?gclid=CPfV2K7eorQCFczHtAodCAQAHQ one the subject of grates, i weld my own up,from square bar, they seem to last the same amount of time as cast iron ones, the one in my range lasted at least 3 years, and then i just re placed the inner bars that were burnt through. May be if anyone needs a new grate i can make you one up, and we'll see what kind of price i can get it down to.

Stock 35 mm thick fire bricks, i.e one side of a stove lining, are less than £2 each where i get them from, just slice then up to fit with a grinder, job done.

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i tried to get hold of a HA one last year, very very difficult, and i am in the trade, i got one from a boater who just wanted shot of it, as he thought it got in the way. I just changed his filters in exchange. I suggest you email realdiesels, sleeman and hawkin, marine engine services to name a few. Theres also Diesel electric services in the USA who have a vast amount of Lister parts. Then there's the option of buying any old SR off Ebay which are cheap as chips, just to get the RHS, and then sell it on again, you might spend £200 on a RHS assembly alone anyway. £900 is a ridiculous price, don't even think about it.

then there is the fact that a boat can carry more weight per amount of engine power/ fuel consumtion, i.e you can bow haul a 50, even a hundred tonnes loaded barge, but not a lorry. ( not including strong man contests ) but then at 4 MPH or less it takes 10 times the hours of a vehicle to get from A to B. My brain hurts now ! Man made global warming is just a theory by the way.