Traveller

Just wondered if anybody has got any pointers re the preheating referred to in my last post Thanks :-) Colin

On mine there is an up-stand of about half to three quarters of an inch (in old money) at the back of the gunwale which forms a lip that runs along the bottom of the doors. Imagine a hole cut in the cabin side where the doors will be and with that hole leaving some steel at the bottom. Even mine leaks though as the rain splashes up when being driven by wind - I need to think of something! I think you are right when you call it a cill so we may be saying the same thing (and even have the same problem) Colin

Very good point, Richard. There must be 1000s of boats out there with BMCs so hopefully the engine will be around for a good many years yet!

Strange that there is no riser. I would have thought all builders would leave a strip of metal at the bottom (riser) - otherwise it could not possibly be considered waterproof.

Thanks for the info all. Now back from the final river trial. Spoke to surveyor re shaft bearing and he said the movement is minor and no action is necessary. The rudder-stock bearing is worn but the vibration is only evident if I lean on the rudder. Yes, it does need sorting but it is nowhere near the end of the world. Engine ran like a dream with no major smoking (in fact none after a couple of mins) and the oil and temperature remained within the tolerances discussed on this thread. The only problem I did have was with the cold start. The instructions on board say turn key to left (red marker) and hold for thirty seconds and then turn further left (to green marker) to start. After starting the key should be turned all the way to the right (blue marker). For a hot start the key should be turned to the right. Turned the key left to the red marker and the key clicked into place (I did not have to hold it there) but no lights came on. Left it for 30 seconds and then turned further to left and ignition light came on and engine turned over. It took several attempts before the engine started and I wonder therefore if the preheaters are working (or am I doing something wrong)? Hot starting did not present a problem. That was it. Boat handled well and the hull survey is very good. There is also a boat safety until 2018. She badly needs blacking but the vendor has agreed to deduct this from our agreed price, he has also agreed to pay this years license. So, it looks as though we now have a nice old (1978) Peter Nicholls hull. The inside is original and in great condition. The outside is ok but tired paintwork wise. Only other problem is a leaky side hatch but we can sort that. Incidentally, I could not ask the vendor about the cold start as he knows nothing about boats. He inherited this from his dad who has sadly passed. Colin

Philip, it is the bottom rudder-stock bush where the wear is. I would need to be a frogman if I don't dry dock the boat :-)

1) A worn rudder stock (rudder vibrates when prop is turning). Not the end of the world I know but any ideas on what the repair cost is likely to be? 2) Also, very slight play on the shaft bearing. Nothing to worry about at this stage but again any ides on costs associated with repairing the bearing? Finally, when checking out a BMC 1.5 via a river trial, what should I look for. I know that oil pressure and running temp are in the mix. Any other pointers? Thanks

A very interesting and helpful thread. Thanks to all.

One of those galvanic isolators that sits between the boat and the on-shore mains feed - one end of the isolator plugs into the boat and the other end into the shore line. Incidentally, is there a galvanic corrosion issue when plugged into a generator?

Thanks, so if I plug in occasionally one of hose in-line jobbies should suffice?

I have an edition signed by Sonia Rolt when we visited the Rolt;s house.. That'll do me!

So if I have anodes and do not leave my boat plugged in for long periods I should not have a problem? And if the boats around me are not plugged in does that make it even better?

I thought someone said that galvanic corrosion could occur no matter whether one is "plugged in" or not. If that is so how will an onshore transformer work? Not that I have a clue what all this really means :-)

So the recommendation would be to install galvanic protection in the boat and do not use the type that the land lion plugs into on the basis that the latter only affords protection if boat is plugged in to the shore supply?

I was at the rally when the Ramsey key heading/mooring was upgraded and opened - must have been in the 80s. It was a really nice job and a great mooring. The last time I saw it it looked very run down and neglected. Is it better again now?

To raise an old thread. Am taking delivery of our boat on Sunday. The survey has been fine and hull is in good condition, but there is a little surface rust where a side hatch leaked. This I can easily get at. To be on the safe side though I would like to treat as much of the hull as I can but obviously that will be difficult given the floor boards and, of course, ballast. Is there anything I can spray around. I know it cannot be a perfect job but anything is perhaps better than nothing. Spraying is going to be the only way and that is why Waxoyl comes to mind for it is said that: a) it stops existing rust and it creeps. Thanks

For some reason Liverpool Boats seem to have become the modern day Springer. I know not why though as they seem ok to me. But that is just imo.

Have hopefully just found our boat and from a private seller and I must say that we have thus far been very lucky. The seller, who is not a boatie by any stretch of the imagination, inherited the boat from his dad who has regrettably passed on. We explained that we were very interested and that we would make an offer subject to contract. The response was - well you need to be sure so why not take the boat out for an afternoon and see how you get on. This we did and on the back of that made a subject to survey offer. No deposit changed hands and the survey came out with a couple of small issues so we reduced our offer price by £500. This has been accepted and we are now just waiting for the registration authority to deal with the death certificate before we complete. There is still time for this to go wrong but it just goes to show how varied the process can be.

One 110A battery was certainly enough to start the SR2 on our old boat.

I am no boat electrician but your starter battery should have been isolated from the domestics, thus avoiding drain overnight. Do you have a battery switch that gives you the option to use bank 1, bank 2, or both? If so did you select both?

Maybe their implementation is "unique"?

Can't get to the hinges but there is some useful info here. I don't pick the boat up until Sunday so it is possible the key might be found by then. If not I shall try the card approach and failing that a locksmith. Thanks Colin

Good point re changing locks. Thanks.

I always loved it - but much building has gone on over the years, as it has everywhere. Was still a nice run when I last did it - about 7 years ago!