Biggles

I like the idea of a CH 3 way valve, but I wasn't sure if it would work in reverse but I suppose its a mechamical rotary valve and won't be bothered where the pressures is. We only run the WM when cruising or occasionally on shore power. When cruising we make continuous hot water so it makes sense to use it in the WM to 1 speed up the cycle, and 2 to reduce the amount of power needed. Heating from an inverter is never a good thing IMO. The water is delivered to the WM at 40c care of a TMV. Rincing with hot water keeps the washing warm and seems to seal in the freshness. Once the drying starts the washing is already hot so again less heating is required at the start. Once the drying starts cold water is going to make the condenser work better. Its that simple. Water is not a problem as we make our own if a tap is not available We had no real choice about a washer dryer, we didn't have the space for a WM and separate TD. This was a replacement for a WM only which we've had for 4 years. One of Mrs Biggles dislikes on the boat was the lack of TD and dishwasher, so the WM came out and a DW put in it place in the kitchen and a WM has been put in the bedroom. Guess who lost their wardrobe space? I also like the timer Chewbacker. And Moominpapa seems you have the same ideas. I am confident i have the solution to the problem now.

It is a normal washer dryer Mike.

I need to control hot and cold water supply to my washing machine on my boat. The wash and rince can be hot water but the drying cycle needs cold water for the condenser. I need to have hot served for about 1.5 hours then switched to cold for the drying cycle. Ideally this would be on a timed relay defaulting to cold. Once actuated (240v) the valve would open to permit hot supply, after about 1.5 hours it would default to cold. Does anyone have a solution? It would be great if it was self sensing when the W/M was powered up the control would switch to hot only, dropping after 1.5 hours to default cold. Any suggestions? Regards Kevin

I am going to chip in here. I have tried 12v, and 240v "marine" toilets from Vetus. The 240v one worked well but it was the Continental shelf type pan and was not to my liking and the 12v one which worked well was prone to backflow despite many trials of different backflow valves. In fairness this might be my installation but I doubt it. Last week I finally gave up with "marine" and fitted a domestic 240v Saniflow macerator £229.00 with a standard Bog In A Box close coupled set with standard flush £79.00. OK it uses a bit more water, but I don't see backflow anymore. Water use can be limited of course if you apply the "if its yellow let it mellow" because the bowl will not fill up. It will always keep the bowls water level with the macerator self actuating as the level inside sets off the discharge. In a marine toilet it will fill up until you push the button. So with a bit of management water use could be limited.

Great information Alan. Thanks

Hello All Currently on my boat doing some mods. It's really warm here in central France and I'm thinking about A/C for next summer. The system I have seen on another boat is like C/H in reverse i.e. instead of a boiler heating water for radiators, this system has a refrigeration unit instead of a boiler and it circulates extremely cold water to a set of outlets much like a fan heater but in reverse. So my question is what is type of system called, and apart from Webasto, who else makes them? Cheers

OK, I am a 60' widebeam but we have 2 large dogs which take up A LOT of room. Setup is cruiser stern, steps down to galley, into saloon (lounge). Bathroom (8'x5') midships. We have a passage way but the bathroom on a NB could be a walkthrough type into the bedroom. Here is where it would then be up to personal choice. Fixed bed of make up cross bed. For us the helm area whatever you have, cruiser, semi or trad leading strait into the galley area is perfect for catering both social areas of the boat. The loo area is still in communication with the social area leaving your bedroom (private space) out of "social use". Just my opinion.

Do you have a link to the one you have?

Hello All I have seen this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-HDMI-Male-to-2-HDMI-Female-1-in-2-Way-Splitter-Adapter-Cable-For-HD-TV-/231607817727?hash=item35ece6d5ff:g:LLwAAOSw~gRVkROb What I wanted to know is why will thins not run 2 output devices at the same time? My plan is.. to get one of these to come out of my sat box then use HDMI to RCA to the old tv sets. How does this all switch? Kevin

I just lit the fire. Its not been lit for nearly a year, 2 clicks on the pizzo and it lit no problem, Sod all that wood, logs, coal, fire lighters, banking, stoking, riddling and ash clearing. Gas is the future now. Sorry to upset the purists, but why go through all that bother? https://instagram.com/p/70wchXgU-R/?taken-by=kevinwade181

I'm so sorry to hear this. He made a pulley for my boat and was a thoroughly nice bloke to deal with, and I don't generally like people. So sad.

The CH has been firing up in the mornings and we are in central France. I did heat the boat the other day with the heat exchanger on the engine just to shake it down.

Hello Peter It was great to finally meet you the other day, you are welcome anytime.. So here is my WBNB that so many people here said was unsuitable for the French waterways. I would have to strongly disagree.

My solution is not elegant but its the only way I can see to do it.

Is there a better way of turning a 90 exiting a radiator for getting a lockshield on?

I would think its to do with a person / car or indeed any thing that moves being spotted in an area it should not have been, think for example a cheating partner or a person excluded from a certain area.. A boat would IMO qualify as a thing that moves and could therefore be where its either not expected to be or not supposed to be and should be anonmalised, whereas a house is pretty much going nowhere and therefore affords no anonymity.

Yes Nick. I have no room for the lockshield to come straight out (Wall in the way) so need to turn the corner and put the lockshield directly under the rad.

Will this be the right thread to go into the female on a radiator? http://www.screwfix.com/p/yorkshire-tectite-sprint-male-elbow-15mm-x/54976 Ta

Thanks guys so far. So from what you say and all seem to agree that 15mm would be fine for the longest single run which is about 6m flow and return.