JDR

RIP and condolences to his family and friends. I hope it is some consolation to those left behind that being on a boat ensured a much higher quality of life than the majority of the population with meaningful social interaction with people that actually care. It has certainly concentrated my thoughts regarding work life balance.

I sent Paul from Bescan 07818417402 a front cratch cover with zips and a window and got a a quality cover back using the old one as a pattern. One small detail was sorted no questions asked next time he was in the area. Got a mate with a Bescan pram canopy on a cruiser which is still looking good after five years. Good price as well.

Thanks for the replies that is what I needed. Bit late to test engine stop tonight. Bit confusing as loom is twenty years old and colour coding is a bit random.

Sorry mods posted in wrong forum. In general terms if you were wiring it from scratch what connections would you expect from ignition/neg.

I've just replaced a VDO tacho with a Durite on a Beta Deluxe panel for a BV1505. In the process of wrestling with the spaghetti behind the panel I've lost one of the wires from the stop button. I have what I think is a pos feed from the ignition switch, the neg I think was jumpered to the ground terminal on the old VDO gauge but trying the same with Durite gauge doesn't work. How should the stop switch/solenoid cct work?

I thought Cleeve at first but pretty sure there are some old looking buildings visible on the far bank. The hill suggests a similar area, perhaps Mapledurham looking upstream? Weir is on the right side and the left turn looks about right.

Sorry to the OP for misreading first post.....try having a read trough these threads http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=50330 http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=33226 http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=7982 http://canalrivertrust.org.uk/news-and-views/features/single-handed-boating Colin Edmonson's book is often recommended http://www.amazon.co.uk/Going-It-Alone-Colin-Edmondson/dp/B0036TZQC4 Having two centrelines makes life easier as you don't have to do the Indiana Jones whipping the rope across from one side to the other. Take it slow and steady to start with.

Well done to all concerned and good call getting emergency services involved. One thing I wasn't aware of until recently was the risk of secondary drowning. If the lungs suffer internal bruising there is a danger of fluid being produced as a byproduct of the healing process. Looked it up and it is the presence of water in the lungs that can act as an irritant and cause body to react by creating fluid. (sorry unable to edit on crap mobile).

When I needed a 21"x can't remember pitch prop for a 3-1 box Clements suggested a 65-70% (much higher than normal 55% but can't remember exact figure) BAR 17" x 21" so the effect can be quite dramatic.

When I was looking at a four blade prop it was to get around a problem of limited clearance. The higher BAR can mean a four bladed prop of a given diameter/pitch is equivalent to a larger diameter three blade.

There will be a point roughly midway along the boat (hopefully close to where the centreline is attached) that the boat pivots around when you steer left or right. To make a sharp 90 degree turn bring the boat to a stop, the pivot point should be either slightly behind or opposite where you are turning into but not ahead. Move the tiller 30 degs in the required direction, give the throttle a good amount of revs for about five to ten seconds then back into neutral and let the boat make the turn. The reason you don't stay in gear is to avoid the boat moving forward which would increase the turning circle. Disclaimer: This is what works for me, others will have different but equally valid methods.

When approaching a lock landing come in slowly at a 30deg angle. Aim the front at one of the bollards, when the bow is a couple of feet off aim towards the next bollard. By the time you have aimed for and missed two or three bollards knock the boat into neutral and if you were going slow enough the stern should now be close enough to the bank to allow you to step off with a centreline. You may need to take the boat out of gear for short periods of time while doing this to help lose speed but you will soon notice that the boat will only steer properly with the prop pushing water past the rudder so you need to see what works for you. Relying on reverse to stop will send water between the bank and the boat and can make getting in close more difficult.

I'd recommend either an RYA course (some offer the option of training you on your own boat) or finding someone experienced to join you for your first trip. Manouevering a boat in a marina can be a pain' worth having someone to help for a first trip. Unless you are a total natural expect to zig zag the first time you try going in a straight line for any period of time. This is normal, there is a small time delay between moving the tiller and the boat responding and until you get used to it the natural reaction is to overcompensate. Try lining a feature on the boat roof (centre of front cratch/pallet truck) with something in the distance then that's where the boat will go. Most of all enjoy it.

I would nominate Something Understood at 11:30pm on Sundays as the worst radio programme currently on air on R4. So bad I find it fascinating. Mark Tully's voice sounds like Marvin the Paranoid Android but Marvin was never given access to national broadcasting to play a selection of maudlin music interspersed with surreal ramblings that coming from anybody else you would strongly suspect the involvement of an eight pack of Special Brew and a few Tamazepan.

It's the Daily Express, the Editor just hits a button on a random headline generator. I'm surprised the headline didn't read: "Biggest Freeze for 400 Hundred Years Will be Caused by Overweight East European Scroungers Blocking Sunlight." Knowing the Express there will also be a piece on how this will cause house prices to rise, and help resolve the mystery of Madeline McCann and Princess Diana.

The last boat that size I remember was moored on the Gt Ouse and cost £180k new so prices are likely to be in barge territory. Might be worth trying some of the barge forums for advice as well.

Your best bet would be to post a link to the ad then there is a good chance someone here will recognise the builder/give you pointers. Your cruising range will be GU main line/Thames/K&A/London waterways. A widebeam that size would not be considered a typical starter boat and will be a lot of boat to deal with singlehanded and you will find mooring in busy areas more limited. There are trainers who will teach you on your own boat, in your situation it would be worth considering. Good luck and remember the magic words subject to survey.

Clever planning and use of space is equally if not more important than nominal size. I've been on well laid out 40' boats that have felt spacious and 60'boats with corridors that have felt cramped. Don't discount shorter well designed widebeams, what you would lose in theoretical space you would gain in easier handling and cheaper mooring fees. I would recommend trying to find an opportunity to try a 70' widebeam before you buy. Do you intend using the boat by yourself?

A boiled kettle will give enough hot water for washing or doing the dishes. One 13kg bottle costs about £26.One bottle lasts me at least five months, more if you cruise and use "free" heat from calorifier. That's 17p a day or a fiver a month. One of the few things on a boat that is incredibly cheap.

I checked the tin in the engine room and it was Combi Colour. I used three coats of shop primer as I had to go back to metal in a few places. I would be impressed if the claims are true but would still personally be reluctant to apply any topcoat without a base. I would also avoid any painting outside until the first hot weather in late spring, even if it stays dry there isn't enough heat during the day to dry paint enough to prevent blooming if temperatures fall into single figures overnight.

I've used Rustoleum top coat on top of Rustoleum shop primer and found it very easy to use (once thinned with Owatrol) and a good finish. No undercoat required. As Julynian said the primer by itself is good at hiding bumps and scrapes. I can't comment on combi-colour having only used black and satin grey (RAL7005).

The original F650 was as you say a 650 single powered by a Rotax engine.There is also an F650 launched around 2008 which is an 800cc parallel twin, a detuned road oriented version of the F800GS. Why BMW chose a name as confusing as F650 to describe the twin is anyone's guess. http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/News/newsresults/First-rides-tests/2009/August/aug1409-full-review-bmw-f650gs/ I wouldn't touch a new BMW with a very long barge pole, the amazing build quality you used to get on R-Series and Ks simply doesn't exist anymore. I've heard enough horror stories of wheel bearings collapsing on low model bikes and other issues with build quality to put me off what was my favourite marque of bike.