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Everything posted by Castaway

  1. Can anyone recommend somebody for Aire & Calder - nearer to Goole than Leeds for a Pram Cover/Cruiser Stern cover? Thanks
  2. The other option is not to use 'LED' replacement lamps, as in MR16 etc but to fit an actual LED down light. This kind of thing with a switch offers even more flexibility http://www.scsmicrofreeview.co.uk/scs-led2250-21-172-p.asp and seems widely used in caravans/motor homes.
  3. That would make sense, think I'll take it to bits and see what we find. Thanks.
  4. Blew a fuse today, on the lighting circuit. When I went to replace it seems I have 1 x 7.5A and 1 x 3A in the fuse holder set up, both rated 32V? Surely this can't be right and if I'm changing them to 12V do I just multiply the Amp rating by 2.75?
  5. Ok, still can't find a leak....but.....if I turn off the water supply to the pump, no problem. My thinking would be that if the 2-3 second running every 20 seconds or so is caused by a leak then turning of the water to the pump shouldn't stop the problem. If the pump running is caused by a drop in pressure on the outlet side why would cutting off the input pressure make any difference?
  6. I'd be a taker for one of them as well..... shall be having words with my friendly welder this weekend....
  7. Thanks Richard. Pretty sure we've no dripping taps, just re-fitted the bathroom but the fault/noise was there before then. I'll check the galley taps for leaking at the weekend when I'm back at the boat. Everything appears dry around the pump itself. Not come across a cabin bilge........ Would it need to be a significant leak? Would have thought we'd come across some other tell tale signs?
  8. I can't add anything to the above, but do have a question on the topic of Water Pump if you don't mind me hi-jacking the thread When I have power on to my pump, it at regular intervals splutters/vibrates/rumbles etc. When taps are open, it works absolutely fine in both hot and cold, turn the taps off and I reckon every 10=15 seconds it has a moan????? Any thoughts please?
  9. Would appear to be sorted.......simple battery isolator switch fault. I do need to take a photo of the box with the LED's though and put this on for some information as to what it does/should do etc! Many Thanks to all for the different things to try.
  10. Thank You, will get the meter out over the weekend and have a look. Would a poor negative also tie in with the leisure battery alternator not kicking in (Although I guess it may be thinking there is enough juice in the leisure batteries and isn't required if I'm getting a good reading at the batteries) Cheers
  11. Thanks Sir Nibble, can you expand at all? The more things I have to try the better!
  12. Has anyone ever gone from a Dump through to a cassette? I'm thinking pump out, good dose of blue and plenty of water to rinse and then pump out again. The new cassette toilet will be placed in alternative position and then old hole covered with new flooring. Can anyone see any issues with this?
  13. Thanks. A bit more info. There is a seperate battery for starting the engine. There is no shore power, but I do have a Ring Booster pack which works as a 300W inverter and from this I can plug in a battery charger and put the output from that into the 12V circuit. This however isn't how it always was. Originally, things appeared to work fine, though I did once leave the central heating pump on and probably completely discharged the leisure batteries. The second alternator wasn't receiving an instruction to kick in and charge the batteries (it seemed that was due to such a low voltage in the leisure batteries) but if I put some charge into the system via the aforementioned battery charger then the alternator would kick in. This no longer seems to be the case, putting the charge in isn't firing up the alternator now? Yesterday I managed to borrow some 240V from the shore and had this in for a few hours. As mentioned, the leisure batteries were reading over 12V on the meter but I was getting no life from any 12V equipment? I'm hoping to get out and about on the boat soon to give it plenty of work, which may or may not help. I've no idea what the box is which has 'LED' indicators, these have never lit up and looking at the various cable colours coming from it, they may correspond to some of the loose cables in the engine bay (Appear to come from that direction). Cheers
  14. Can anyone recommend somebody to sort my electrics? Based on stainforth-keadby canal at present. Two leisure batteries, both showing 12+V with meter. No problem starting engines. All electrics work when hooked up to mains (12 & 240V), though 12 appears to only work when a battery charger is putting voltage in to the 12V loom. Can't think of anything logical! There is an inverter, also a 4 LED display thing which has never shown anything and a number of non connected wires in the engine bay.
  15. CDA do one LPG oven and a range of hobs with flame failure safety and complete with LPG jets.
  16. Shower cubicles for caravans are made by Thompson Plastics, Big Bear Plastics, 4Tech, Linecross, all of whom you should find on tinternet somewhere. Wet walling is available from Frontline Bathrooms in West Yorkshire.
  17. Thank you. Will be moving the boat to pastures new soon and estimate a good 7-8 hours in transit. I'll take some readings before and after and see how they look! The Aldi boiler is now out so won't be leaving it switched on again!
  18. Thanks, I did leave the central heating pump on which is undoubtedly the cause for completely flattening the batteries! Since then the opportunity to re-charge has been limited to just a few hours at tickover so I guess I'm nowhere near the full charge state or any kind of strength. The batteries are sealed, when peeking in the viewing window they are showing Green dot's which is suggested as being fine.
  19. Having not been to my boat for the last couple of weeks, arriving today I had no 12V leisure power. Engine started like clockwork, but the second alternator doesn't kick in to charge the leisure batteries which have presumably run a little low during a few weeks stood. Having checked all the obvious things (I think!), I found that using a portable inverter/12V power supply to inject 12V ish into my 12V circuit this voltage will trigger the leisure alternator and hey presto dashboard gauge is showing 14V and everything is working ticketyboo?????>. Would it be normal for the leisure batteries to power the trigger to switch on the second alternator? Any possible amendments to improve this scenario? I think the boat was set up to be on shore power, configured with a battery charger from 240V to a trickle into the 12V system. Any thoughts please?
  20. Is there such a thing as a toannau cover for cruiser sterns? Something that keeps the water out of the area and the steps taking you down into the cabin but removed for cruising? Bit like what you get on Caterham Car?
  21. http://www.scsmicrofreeview.co.uk/scs-ledcl52-42-173-p.asp
  22. Personnally I would go for a Meos set everytime, if you want to simply by a freeview set, try www.scsmicrofreeview.com or co.uk. They do a 12V freeview that will work through coax rather than scart for the older tvs.
  23. You'll probably find LED lights with a 'CE' mark, which isn't really worth a great deal as this is a 'self certify' process. There isn't any recognised European Standard for 12V lighting other than road lighting to my knowledge so the lighting on the market can differ hugely from one importer to another. I would be amazed if any of the 'replacement' LED products are made anywhere other than in Asia, which doesn't make them bad, but will question the practicality/consistency/quality from most sources. Anyone with experience of buying from Asia will know what I mean. As I mentioned before, purchase an 'LED' fitting (A purpose made product) rather than simply swapping lamps and you should be OK. I would also recommend using something found commonly in Caravans and Motor Homes which are probably the nearest comparison to our own environment available. If they are fitting to 20,000+ caravans every year they should be OK. You'll probably find they will cope with more than 12V as well, unlike some of the 'replacement' LED lamp products which may not like 14-15V put through them at times. I've yet to find a Marine LED supplier featuring in Caravans, not sure why but it does concern me a little, are they a lighting expert or exploiting an opportunity? The cost of the replacement LED lamp is often sold providing the retailer with a huge margin, the consumer believes it easier and cheaper than replacing the complete unit for a 'real' LED product. Shop around, you can buy 'real' LED products effectively.
  24. LED lighting is pretty much the norm in caravans and motor homes, in the early days some lights did cause FM interference, mainly with the replacement lamp types rather than the 'proper' LED lights. If you shop around, you can buy 'LED' fittings rather than LED replacement lamps which don't tend to perform as well in longevity or light output anyway. On first impressions, a lot of the replacement LED for Halogens look good, but further down the line they tend to loose output with use and may not last as long as an LED product with the appropriate circuitry.
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