Supertramp

Thanks guys, I agree it seems the best / cheapest charging method, just wondered if the intermittent supplies each counted towards the 'charging cycles' that a typical batteries life is measured by

I've always understood batteries like to be charged in specific stages, bulk, absorption float etc. Which works well with a constant mains or engine derived supply. But how damaging is it to the batteries to get intermittent charges from the solar panels on a 'semi cloudy' day such as now. We might get 30 mins of sun, then nothing for an hour or two, then a bit more, how does either the charger or the batteries keep track? and does it impact on the life of the batteries?

If only everything in life was that simple..... Thanks for the now 'blindingly obvious' answer, I must admit to only looking at it without the engine running, and of course - switching it makes no difference then. An on/off switch makes perfect sense suitably embarrassed now. Tony

simple question..... The 3.5Kw Travel Power box has a small rocker switch at the bottom centre. it doesnt light up despite having red and green windows on it, and I cant see any change in function whatever the switch state. The online instruction manual sites all seem to have a later model than mine, and no mention is made of this switch. What does it do? What should it be set on? Can anyone help? Thanks Tony

I was concerned about the 'dangers' of a pump failing on the back boiler circuit, so have rigged a couple of relays and thermostats to switch in the 240v pump, or the 12v pump if the mains fails. I've also added an extra thermostatic relay set at high temp to force the 12v pump to operate, - this covers the 240v pump failing internally. Sure - any system can fail, but adding a few extra backup steps can help lengthen the odds.

Be aware Kev, one of your close neighbours had a similar problem, and called BT out, and they charged her, as it seems the cables on the pontoons are provided by BWML, not BT, so if the fault is found on this cable or the bollard socket, BT will charge for the callout and still not fix it.

Before you bury it....To clarify what Matty said earlier, The copper strip is purely a safety mechanism, You say the fan has failed to work since you 'bent' it. - thats possibly because the strip now holds the base of the fan slightly off the stove top - even a millimetre will be enough to stop enough heat transfer. Try bending the strip back into the grove, or remove completely with a large screwdriver and some brute force. - once the base plate sits flat again, the fan should work fine. (If your fire ever gets red hot - remember the ecofan has no safety device, - in reality - mine never gets that hot )

Kev - I used to have a landline connection at Apsley for the broadband, but found it cheaper (and faster) to use 'three's unlimited data. The signal is excellent in the marina, download speeds often around 12MB, far better than the phoneline. Uploading was no issue either, I needed it for work, and regularly exceed 25GB's a month. Perhaps look at ditching the landline altogether. Tony

Have a nice photo of it, but I've lost the will to live after trying for over half an hour to work out how to show pictures. I now have a photobucket account for my sins, but its either the 'wrong extension' or too large' for the forum. Just shut your eyes, - and imagine a picture of a tree across the canal. job done

Seems its all rubbish now anyway http://www.thisisthewestcountry.co.uk/news/devon_news/10736925.Met_Office_rubbishes_claims__worst_winter_for_decades__is_on_the_way/?ref=mr

As bizzard says, a back boiler can get nasty if the pump fails on a 'non' syphon system. I have the 240v Wilo pump, works great and is virtually silent. As a backup, I have a Jabesco 12v pump in line as well. My dog is sometimes on the boat alone with the fire and back boiler hot. - so to protect her - I have added a couple of relays and remote thermostatic switches which ensure the 240v pump runs when required, but if the mains fails or is unavailable, the 12v pump switches in. An additional separate safety circuit switches in the 12v pump if the boiler reaches a higher temp, - this covers the 240v pump failing.

I would link them in series, and keep the voltage high, ( = lower current - smaller cables, less loss). This will also allow the controller to do it's best for you on cloudy days.

Thanks guys, - wasnt sure if producing power with nowhere for it to go might not be good for them. I read the MPPT controller has dire warnings about not connecting panels if no batteries are connected. Im secure as far as theft, so onto the roof they go just in time for the monsoon forecast for later Tony

I've recently got a pair of large panels, but dont have time to wire them up for a few weeks due to work commitments. They are in the boat at the moment, but take up a lot of room, I'd like to put them on the roof, but not wire them in. Will the sun beating down on panels that are not connected to anything damage them? - or should I try and cover them over with a tarp or similar.

If you have lots of 2.5mm - why not double it up - use all 3 cores joined together (Twin+earth) for the positive, and another similar for the negative?, This may help with future core failures, as 2.5mm T+E cable is solid core, and not so tolerant of movement over time. Ideally you should use stranded. ETA - re-read you OP - not sure if it's 2.5mm T+E or 2.5mm singles, either way, - double it up !

This is Kings Orchard Marina, built by Pridewater Estates, who have marinas at Fazeley, Tamworth and Grove, Leighton Buzzard. The opening date was June 3rd, however this may have slipped a little it seems

Correct! - excellent film http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOvot1s7OOY quote happens between 32 and 34 mins in.

Before having my own dog, I had a couple of occasions where a four legged visitor would hop on my boat. I now think it is something that dogs sometimes get wrong, as my border collie occasionally misses our boat completely, and thinks its fine to board the next one. I've corrupted the well known phrase from a film about a dog and a policeman - "that is NOT your boat" It works well, - she understands instantly! (perhaps she's seen the film)

Thanks Nick, I've ordered the 6w one, as I don't want a high flow rate. The DC-DC converter for high / low settings is also an idea I hadn't considered. - good to get other peoples views!

Strangely - Amazon sell quite a few life jackets, Clicky

Thanks Nick & Arthur, some ideas there. The solar project pump looks almost too good to be true for that money, have you any experience of them in actual use? Arthur, - I was trying to save wasting the heat in a resistor, but I agree, - its a tried and test method.

My 12v CH pump is very noisy, such that I couldnt sleep with it running. (I have a near silent 240v standard domestic pump also inline for use with shore power) Having already tried flexible mounts, rubber hose links etc, I have now thought of slowing the motor down. 12V-40V 10A Pulse Width Modulation PWM DC Motor Speed Control Switch Governor UK http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121008731849 Would this work with a standard Jabesco pump? (59510-0012) or could I cause more problems than I aim to solve? Tony

Morning Arvind, - Can you tell me what 'forms' they are asking for? I'm looking at this option, and would like to know what documents might be needed. Many thanks in advance Tony