Chalky

What you've bought is a single lion cell and s simple power converter. The electronics can provide 5v at 2A max - I use these a lot to power small robots in the lab. Scaling the battery up is expensive. Using more than 1 cell will require a battery management system that can monitor cell temperature, voltage and manage the SOC of each cell - get it wrong and you've got a small bomb on your hands. To make a multi cell lithium battery safe and reliable needs high reliability electronics which isn't cheap...

Our hob is under a window. We have a glass cover over it that folds back against the window. We also have an aluminium Venetian blind. The hob is sufficiently far away from the window so we can fit a pan on it and open the glass cover.

If you decide on staying with the 82 deg thermostat and you have trouble obtaining one they're obtainable from MG specialists since they're the one specified for the MGB. Leacy's list them at about £5. They also list a 74 degree and 88 degree. http://www.leacyclassics.com/

I've got the Starter motor, the tunnel light and the horns wired off the starter battery, everything else is off the domestic. There is a relay connected to the engine ignition switch so I can't leave the lights on.

Before you get too excited about inductive hobs Google the term "Stray Field" and have a look at the ICNIRP 1998 guidelines (International Commission on Non-Ionising Radiation Protection), especially the section "Biological Basis For Limiting Exposure". The guidelines were weakened later. Once you've read them then ask the inductive hob question again. Link to guidelines http://www.icnirp.org/cms/upload/publications/ICNIRPemfgdl.pdf

From what I know there are 2 different lengths depending on the cam followers used (usual petrol engine caveats apply). They're about £3 each and seem to be fairly easy to obtain new. Check they're a common part before using them - some bits are common, some aren't. http://www.leacyclassics.com/11g241.html http://www.leacyclassics.com/12h3357.html http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/push-rod-engine-12h3357.html http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/push-rod-engine-11g241.html http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_SPARES_UPPER__MGB__4.html

If they're the same as the ones on the BMC petrol engine then there are loads of places that sell MGB spares that will stock them.

We had the problem at work with the words Gaydon and Essex. Makes you wonder how they ever receive any messages with the word canal in it. Perhaps that explains a lot...

I'm on another forum that has a library of technical articles. These are written by forum members and describe various topics e.g. How they did a particular job or a trick they found. there can be multiple articles about the same topic. The forum is mg experience. Mgexp. Things are still debated and discussed but there's also the library.

Another vote for wickes aqua panel. I spent some time researching it and its a cement based board. I did find a manufacturers data sheet for it that specifies the thermal conductivity. From memory its conductivity was at the bottom end of the limit allowed by bs8511, but it is in the tables and a compliant design can be achieved.

If you do swap antifreeze types you'll need to drain the system fully before you refill with the new type. Not all antifreeze types are compatable with all engines. My Ford (4 years old) uses the red long life antifreeze. My MG (37 years old) uses the older blue. If I was to use the more modern antifreeze in the older car there is the danger that it could attack things like the soldered joints in the radiator.