Engine room fit out ideas

[Mac49]

Left it 'til last but getting ready to fit out the engine room properly now. It's got a temporary floor over the engine and a step on the battery box to make it useable but would really like to have it finished off before the summer. It's a trad stern with the engine at the back. Has anyone any photos, ideas or clever designs for an easily removable floor? The batteries need to stay where they are on the swim (uxter?) I'm not very tall but don't want to put taller people off buying the boat should I sell in the future by making it too difficult to get through. Looked at the other boats moored by me but they're all cruiser stern or not narrow boats otherwise i'd go and have a nosey.

Cheers

Rick

[alan_fincher]

Rick,

 

In my experience, what works well in one may well not do so in another.

 

It really depends on where everything is, to include batteries, skin tank plumbing, (possibly) calorifier, exhaust system, etc.

 

Number of batteries, as well as location often heavily influences what is possible.

 

I suggest it might be worth posting some pictures of how your "fixed" items are laid out, then someone might thing "mine's basically like that - my arrangements could work for him".

 

I can't really recommend ours, as it has the legacy of a floor over the engine that is the same height as the steering position - rather a waste of space, although it does allow a lot of air circulation around the engine.

[Mac49]

Rick,

 

In my experience, what works well in one may well not do so in another.

 

It really depends on where everything is, to include batteries, skin tank plumbing, (possibly) calorifier, exhaust system, etc.

 

Number of batteries, as well as location often heavily influences what is possible.

 

I suggest it might be worth posting some pictures of how your "fixed" items are laid out, then someone might thing "mine's basically like that - my arrangements could work for him".

 

I can't really recommend ours, as it has the legacy of a floor over the engine that is the same height as the steering position - rather a waste of space, although it does allow a lot of air circulation around the engine.

 

One step ahead! I was scribbling a bad diagram as you were reading this!

The plumbing comes through the bulkhead (steel) under the calorifier. Was thinking of making a cupboard that runs as a continuation of the panel with the engine controls to the bulkhead with the cabin to hide the heater and calorifier. I have a photo of the space as it was when the boat was delivered so i'll post that in a bit. Also it's a liverpool boat if that helps.

Rick

 

Edit to add these pics:

As it was when it was delivered

Not very clear but the fuel tank, heater and calorifier during fitting

Edited May 5, 2009 by Mac49

[journeyperson]

Left it 'til last but getting ready to fit out the engine room properly now. It's got a temporary floor over the engine and a step on the battery box to make it useable but would really like to have it finished off before the summer. It's a trad stern with the engine at the back. Has anyone any photos, ideas or clever designs for an easily removable floor? The batteries need to stay where they are on the swim (uxter?) I'm not very tall but don't want to put taller people off buying the boat should I sell in the future by making it too difficult to get through. Looked at the other boats moored by me but they're all cruiser stern or not narrow boats otherwise i'd go and have a nosey.

Cheers

Rick

 

I won't be on my boat until Friday probably, but if you are still looking for ideas by that time I will take a few pics because my fittings arrangement is very similar to yours and I think the design of my floor and access to engine/batteries/calorifier etc. is very good (down to the original owner). The floor over the engine is level with the steering position - well it is the steering position, but that allows for plenty of sound insulation on the underside of the floor.

 

edited to say it doesn't look anything like as pristine as yours because it is 15 years old!

Edited May 5, 2009 by journeyperson

[Mac49]

I won't be on my boat until Friday probably, but if you are still looking for ideas by that time I will take a few pics because my fittings arrangement is very similar to yours and I think the design of my floor and access to engine/batteries/calorifier etc. is very good (down to the original owner). The floor over the engine is level with the steering position - well it is the steering position, but that allows for plenty of sound insulation on the underside of the floor.

 

edited to say it doesn't look anything like as pristine as yours because it is 15 years old!

 

Thanks, that would be much appreciated, no rush with the pics, I just wanted to have some of it done before I go away in June

Cheers

Rick

[Richard T]

The important things are as follows:- An easy safe route out of the stern doors to the counter. A safe steering position - this should be inside the back doors like a trad boat steerers step. A cover to the battery box or you will fail the BSC. An easily dismantled boxing around the engine which guards all the moving parts. Good access to the weed hatch.

On our boat we two 50mm angles which are welded to the underside of the counter, these then support the steerers step, from them there are two 75x50mm vertical posts, the engine boxing is built off of them in 12mm ply with a lining of sound absorbing foam. I've not got a good photo but on this one my feet are on the bearers.

In turn the boxing supports one side of plywood sections which form the engine battery cover and a step which also bears on the top of the uxter plate. Our batteries are in the swim with the floor over them, this works well - can you put yours there? as it makes access out of the boat easier. The top of the engine box has non slip vinyl flooring on it for ease of cleaning etc. Our calorifier is in the same place as yours - we have left the swim uncovered as it is a useful storage area for oil etc.

PS the engine room has now been cleaned and repainted so looks a lot neater.

Edited May 5, 2009 by Richard T

[Mac49]

Thought i'd add a few better pictures as the others didn't show too much.

The plywood floor is just an off-cut supported by a 2x2 frame resting on angle front and back so i've got something to stand on, seemed the easiest temporary job.

Richard, i'd like to avoid moving the batteries if I can but a suppose it wouldn't be too difficult if there was no way round it as there's just enough room on the base plate. After looking at the metal framework you're stood on in your photo I spotted a space on the engine bearer which I think I could bolt a similar support to for the lower level floor in line with the door into the cabin.

I was drinking a brew in there today sat on the plywood floor (being well under 6ft, I can sit there without banging my head) and found it's quite a good place to sit with the hatch open, looking out the back of the boat when it's sunny but windy like today so i'd like to keep that feature if possible.

Cheers

Rick

[FadeToScarlet]

I've got a large plywood sheet that goes against the side of the engine, vertically, to make a large triangular storage area between that and the curving-in swim. There's a triangular lid on this at the level of the Uxter plate.

 

There's two steel box section that go along above the engine, and there's a hinged lid on top. This is at the same level, roughly, as the top of the weedhatch. It's about 14" below the level of the doorway. You can lie on the engine cover and reach the weedhatch easily through the gap. On the other side there's a cupboard built the full length of the wall. There's a box 14" tall that forms the steerer's step.

 

This design has the advantage of maximum headroom- 14" more than if your deck were the same level as the door- and the whole thing can be disassembled in about 10 minutes to get at the engine, making servicing easy.

 

I'll try and find some photos.

[Mac49]

I've got a large plywood sheet that goes against the side of the engine, vertically, to make a large triangular storage area between that and the curving-in swim. There's a triangular lid on this at the level of the Uxter plate.

 

There's two steel box section that go along above the engine, and there's a hinged lid on top. This is at the same level, roughly, as the top of the weedhatch. It's about 14" below the level of the doorway. You can lie on the engine cover and reach the weedhatch easily through the gap. On the other side there's a cupboard built the full length of the wall. There's a box 14" tall that forms the steerer's step.

 

This design has the advantage of maximum headroom- 14" more than if your deck were the same level as the door- and the whole thing can be disassembled in about 10 minutes to get at the engine, making servicing easy.

 

I'll try and find some photos.

 

Cheers, sounds a good setup. I suppose the lower area of floor would allow me to just about fit a chair in there, whereas I would have to sit on the floor now (probably seems an odd requirement for an engine room! It can get quite windy where I am, so I makes a good semi-outdoor area). It sounds good that it can be dismantled quickly, which is something I'm aiming for too.

Rick

[NB Alnwick]

My twopen'th:

 

Whatever you do, allow plenty of clear uncluttered space around the engine and ancillaries and make sure that all surfaces are easy to clean and easy to get at. Sod's law says that accessibility only becomes important when things go wrong and you need it most.

[FadeToScarlet]

My twopen'th:

 

Whatever you do, allow plenty of clear uncluttered space around the engine and ancillaries and make sure that all surfaces are easy to clean and easy to get at. Sod's law says that accessibility only becomes important when things go wrong and you need it most.

 

Or, if you do clutter it up, make sure you can remove it all! All of my engine casing can be removed, giving access to the whole engine on both sides. It does involve contorting yourself to get at the far side, and I'm glad I'm not taller or fatter!

[steelaway]

Left it 'til last but getting ready to fit out the engine room properly now. It's got a temporary floor over the engine and a step on the battery box to make it useable but would really like to have it finished off before the summer. It's a trad stern with the engine at the back. Has anyone any photos, ideas or clever designs for an easily removable floor? The batteries need to stay where they are on the swim (uxter?) I'm not very tall but don't want to put taller people off buying the boat should I sell in the future by making it too difficult to get through. Looked at the other boats moored by me but they're all cruiser stern or not narrow boats otherwise i'd go and have a nosey.

Cheers

Rick

 

 

Hi Rick

 

How many battery's are you intending to fit into that box? - it dont seem very big. but you have made it easy to check the water levels

 

Alex

[journeyperson]

Left it 'til last but getting ready to fit out the engine room properly now. It's got a temporary floor over the engine and a step on the battery box to make it useable but would really like to have it finished off before the summer. It's a trad stern with the engine at the back. Has anyone any photos, ideas or clever designs for an easily removable floor? The batteries need to stay where they are on the swim (uxter?) I'm not very tall but don't want to put taller people off buying the boat should I sell in the future by making it too difficult to get through. Looked at the other boats moored by me but they're all cruiser stern or not narrow boats otherwise i'd go and have a nosey.

Cheers

Rick

 

One difference in your layout is that the batteries are on the starboard side, whereas in my boat everything – electrics, batteries, calorifier – is on the port side, requiring less access on the starboard side and allowing for storage cupboards to be built there. My electrics are very simple too and there are no boxes of tricks to accommodate or access. I noticed a number of differences in your layout when you posted the second lot of photos. I'm posting some pics anyway in case they give you some ideas.

 

 

 

 

On the starboard side access to the skin tank plumbing is via a panel in the steps; this panel also allows some access to starboard engine mounts, alternator and starter motor.

 

 

 

 

There are two main panels over the engine bay and one covering the battery box. A door gives access to the calorifier which is mounted quite high with an expansion container beneath which I have to empty periodically. I don't know what the flooring material is (someone will) but it is very durable and cleans easily.

 

 

 

 

A removable steel angle iron supports the two panels where they butt up, otherwise the framework is timber. Access to the engine is tight but everything can be reached for oil and filter changes, I just make sure everything I need is to hand before I get down there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

An indispensable tool was left on the boat by the previous owner. It is actually an aid for people who can't bend and it will pick up anything, including nuts, bolts, screws and spanners that get dropped in the hole. If you have an elderly or disabled friend or relative who has one, see if you can nick it.

 

 

 

 

Access to the weed hatch is not easy. I'm not as supple as I once was and I could do with a cabin boy or preferably a lithe exotic dancer who could get down and untangle plastic bags etc.

 

 

I'm 6ft and the first time I viewed the boat it was my first experience of a trad style boat and I couldn't believe how cramped the rear access was. But you soon adapt and get up and down with ease. My wife got me to put in a grab handle to help her, but otherwise we don't give it a second thought now.

 

 

Edited May 8, 2009 by journeyperson

[Mac49]

One difference in your layout is that the batteries are on the starboard side, whereas in my boat everything – electrics, batteries, calorifier – is on the port side, requiring less access on the starboard side and allowing for storage cupboards to be built there. My electrics are very simple too and there are no boxes of tricks to accommodate or access. I noticed a number of differences in your layout when you posted the second lot of photos. I'm posting some pics anyway in case they give you some ideas.

 

 

 

 

On the starboard side access to the skin tank plumbing is via a panel in the steps; this panel also allows some access to starboard engine mounts, alternator and starter motor.

 

 

 

 

There are two main panels over the engine bay and one covering the battery box. A door gives access to the calorifier which is mounted quite high with an expansion container beneath which I have to empty periodically. I don't know what the flooring material is (someone will) but it is very durable and cleans easily.

 

 

 

 

A removable steel angle iron supports the two panels where they butt up, otherwise the framework is timber. Access to the engine is tight but everything can be reached for oil and filter changes, I just make sure everything I need is to hand before I get down there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

An indispensable tool was left on the boat by the previous owner. It is actually an aid for people who can't bend and it will pick up anything, including nuts, bolts, screws and spanners that get dropped in the hole. If you have an elderly or disabled friend or relative who has one, see if you can nick it.

 

 

 

 

Access to the weed hatch is not easy. I'm not as supple as I once was and I could do with a cabin boy or preferably a lithe exotic dancer who could get down and untangle plastic bags etc.

 

 

I'm 6ft and the first time I viewed the boat it was my first experience of a trad style boat and I couldn't believe how cramped the rear access was. But you soon adapt and get up and down with ease. My wife got me to put in a grab handle to help her, but otherwise we don't give it a second thought now.

 

 

 

Thanks for posting the photos, your engine room looks nicely fitted out. It's the kind of layout i'd been thinking about but with my batteries under the last step before you reach the steering position, unfortunately they can't go on the port side due to the kerosene tank. Someone doing work on my boat commented my floor was too high for a taller person to get through, but as you are 6ft and manage OK, I think it might of been his width rather than his height that was the issue! As for the flooring, it looks a lot like the stuff i'm going to use called 'polyflor', it's the type of stuff the put down in hospitals. We had to photograph some 2m square pieces at my old work and the manufacturer didn't want them back afterwards so I got a blue piece which has done my bathroom with enough spare for the engine room!

I've found some steel supports for the deck which could support a lower floor as in FadeToScarlet's boat so I might try a mock-up of that at the weekend to see how that would work.

 

Hi Rick

 

How many battery's are you intending to fit into that box? - it dont seem very big. but you have made it easy to check the water levels

 

Alex

Alex, you're right it is a small battery box, it's the one that came with the boat. It can only take 3 batteries. I had my starter and 2 leisure batteries in there but as one decided to leak i'm now down to 1 I aim to get 3 leisure batteries and put the starter battery in one of those plastic boxes behind the existing box.

Cheers

Rick

[Richard T]

It does look very like Polyflor - which is a good quality hard wearing vinyl sheet. Do remember to lay it out flat for a 24 hours before cutting - it shrinks when unrolled. Stick down with double sided carpet tape. For edging use an aluminium angle or as we have done some lightweight plastic angle bought from B&Q it only comes in white so you can see the step edges a bit better in the dark or when half cut!

Be wary about using cheap WBP ply it often has voids in the inner plys which are only exposed when cut - it the de-laminates easily. The best material is undoubtedly 'Hexagrip' or similar coated ply. This is the stuff that van floors are covered in - hard wearing good quality but it ain't cheap - around £75 for 18mm 1220x2440 sheet. My job for next winter is to redo our engine box using the remains of the sheet bought for the front locker lids this year.

[Mac49]

It does look very like Polyflor - which is a good quality hard wearing vinyl sheet. Do remember to lay it out flat for a 24 hours before cutting - it shrinks when unrolled. Stick down with double sided carpet tape. For edging use an aluminium angle or as we have done some lightweight plastic angle bought from B&Q it only comes in white so you can see the step edges a bit better in the dark or when half cut!

Be wary about using cheap WBP ply it often has voids in the inner plys which are only exposed when cut - it the de-laminates easily. The best material is undoubtedly 'Hexagrip' or similar coated ply. This is the stuff that van floors are covered in - hard wearing good quality but it ain't cheap - around £75 for 18mm 1220x2440 sheet. My job for next winter is to redo our engine box using the remains of the sheet bought for the front locker lids this year.

 

I've not had much luck with WBP ply. The walls in my cabin are WBP painted white, when I came to stick the porthole liners on in the front I notice the ply had delaminated where the cut-outs were. I replaced 3 sheets and left the liners off the rear portholes to see how the boards lasted. Glad i didn't stick the liners on, they've started to fail and i'm in the process of replacing 2 more boards at the back of the boat. The replacement boards are made in Malaysia rather than China and are much, much better quality with very even laminates and no voids. I've a couple of pieces of Hexagrip type boards that were on the floor of my van when I got it, hopefully enough to do the steps in the engine room and use the Malaysian ply for the rest.

Rick