solar and wind turbine wiring

[theclans]

At the weekend I tried to install a solar panel in combination with an existing Rutland 913 on a friends boat and have a couple of queries. Since there is only one input on the solsum regulator, I've rammed the pos and neg leads from both the panel and turbine into the single solar input of the regulator. The battery output then connects to the battery via the bank selector. "Load" connectors left unconnected.

 

1) Is this ok?

 

2) Why would the SOC (state of charge) give 90% (true approximate value I think) when either the solar panel or wind turbine connected alone, but read 50% when both leads are inserted to the input together? This worries me and makes me think somethink is not right in the installation!

 

3) Presumably the panel and turbine will not be subject to charging from the battery due to some diode trickery in the regularor(controller whatever), but should there be a diode between the panel and turbine (and vice versa) to stop them from charging eachother?

 

Many thanks for any info - its really hard to find detailed installation instructions anywhere on the web (or in the manuals!). The controller is big enough to take charge from both the devices, so am loathe to have to fit two separate regulators.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Sir Nibble]

Yup, you have the two interfering with each other, I dont doubt you could isolate them with a couple of diodes cheaper than a 2nd reg.

[Gary Peacock]

I am going to go off at a slight tangent here but it is on a very similar situation.

 

Over recent years it is increasingly likely that many boats have inverter chargers alongside engine driven AC generators commonly Travel power units.

 

This results in that when the engine is running the AC generator powers the inverter charger which will then attempt to charge the batteries which is fine in principle however because the engine is running the domestic DC alternator is also charging the batteries too.

 

This can result in some strange results on the engine panel with no charge being shown or the Inverter Charger behaving strangely.

 

If you are unfortunate and get this problem it can be very hard to get resolved because the engine manufactures obviously do not want to become involved because they do not see this to be their problem while the inverter charger companies at least the two big ones also get a bit grey on a solution too!

 

Now a change of alternator from one engine supplier seems to have caused a new occurrences of this and I was just wondering if anyone that experienced this in the past ever got a satisfactory solution.

[Sir Nibble]

Not seen this, but it's inevitable when you think about it isn't it. Dunno what to do about it, thinking.

[Chris-B]

Not seen this, but it's inevitable when you think about it isn't it. Dunno what to do about it, thinking.

 

I know there are experts out there who are far more learned than I... but whay can't you just remove the 12v domestic alternator completly and use the travel power to feed the inverter/charger system No confusing back feeds then

[Gary Peacock]

I know there are experts out there who are far more learned than I... but whay can't you just remove the 12v domestic alternator completly and use the travel power to feed the inverter/charger system No confusing back feeds then

 

We did this once in the past and used the domestic alternator to charge bow thruster batteries.

[Gibbo]

I am going to go off at a slight tangent here but it is on a very similar situation.Over recent years it is increasingly likely that many boats have inverter chargers alongside engine driven AC generators commonly Travel power units.This results in that when the engine is running the AC generator powers the inverter charger which will then attempt to charge the batteries which is fine in principle however because the engine is running the domestic DC alternator is also charging the batteries too.This can result in some strange results on the engine panel with no charge being shown or the Inverter Charger behaving strangely.If you are unfortunate and get this problem it can be very hard to get resolved because the engine manufactures obviously do not want to become involved because they do not see this to be their problem while the inverter charger companies at least the two big ones also get a bit grey on a solution too!Now a change of alternator from one engine supplier seems to have caused a new occurrences of this and I was just wondering if anyone that experienced this in the past ever got a satisfactory solution.

Yes and no. I can tell you what causes it though.The problem started when mains powered 3 stage chargers became very smart.Older 3 stage chargers (mains powered) simply produced a current limited charge into the batteries until they reached a certain voltage (acceptance - usually around 14.4 volts). They then held this voltage for a certain period of time (either a fixed time or until the current fell to a certain level - sometimes a combo of both). They then dropped down to float charge. These chargers work fine from an Eletrolux type gadget in tandem with an engine driven alternator.What changed was the chargers getting cleverer. The first one to cause a problem was the Statpower Truecharge range. Many others now do the same thing.What the clever chargers now do is periodically stop charging, wait a few minutes, then look what the battery voltage has done. It can take a *guess* at the state of charge and the size of the loads on the batteries by how fast the voltage falls whilst it has shut the charger down. It can then adjust its charge algorithm to (hopefully) better recharge the batteries.When there is an alternator also charging the batteries the voltage stays high when it shuts the charger off. It usually results in the mains powered charger either throwing up an error or simply shutting down.There is no solution.Some people disconnect the alternator and rely on the mains powered charger as they usually are slightly cleverer and give a better charge towards the end. But they are also often much smaller. Leaving both on does not cause any damage. It simply shuts the manins powered charger down.Gibbo

At the weekend I tried to install a solar panel in combination with an existing Rutland 913 on a friends boat and have a couple of queries. Since there is only one input on the solsum regulator, I've rammed the pos and neg leads from both the panel and turbine into the single solar input of the regulator. The battery output then connects to the battery via the bank selector. "Load" connectors left unconnected.1) Is this ok?2) Why would the SOC (state of charge) give 90% (true approximate value I think) when either the solar panel or wind turbine connected alone, but read 50% when both leads are inserted to the input together? This worries me and makes me think somethink is not right in the installation!3) Presumably the panel and turbine will not be subject to charging from the battery due to some diode trickery in the regularor(controller whatever), but should there be a diode between the panel and turbine (and vice versa) to stop them from charging eachother?Many thanks for any info - its really hard to find detailed installation instructions anywhere on the web (or in the manuals!). The controller is big enough to take charge from both the devices, so am loathe to have to fit two separate regulators.CheersRob

Try a diode inline with the output of the solar panel. You most likely will not need one on the output of the wind turbine as they effectuvely already have one inside.Gibbo