theclans

At the weekend I tried to install a solar panel in combination with an existing Rutland 913 on a friends boat and have a couple of queries. Since there is only one input on the solsum regulator, I've rammed the pos and neg leads from both the panel and turbine into the single solar input of the regulator. The battery output then connects to the battery via the bank selector. "Load" connectors left unconnected. 1) Is this ok? 2) Why would the SOC (state of charge) give 90% (true approximate value I think) when either the solar panel or wind turbine connected alone, but read 50% when both leads are inserted to the input together? This worries me and makes me think somethink is not right in the installation! 3) Presumably the panel and turbine will not be subject to charging from the battery due to some diode trickery in the regularor(controller whatever), but should there be a diode between the panel and turbine (and vice versa) to stop them from charging eachother? Many thanks for any info - its really hard to find detailed installation instructions anywhere on the web (or in the manuals!). The controller is big enough to take charge from both the devices, so am loathe to have to fit two separate regulators. Cheers Rob

Yes, I better push it up the "to do" list I guess!! Someone also mentioned that the problem could be due to uncombusted diesel from the cylinders. Due to the issues I've had witht the re-con (still doesnt seem to be running great), I am concerned that this could be the case??? So what would be the course of action - start with the lift pump (easiest?) - if I were to take it off are there any tell tale signs I should be looking for? Then it would on to the pump, this I know weeps a fair bit from the banjo connections, so god knows whats going on internally. Is it a simple matter of taking it off and replacing the seals? All very annoying, I wont say how much I got billed for the engine work that has already been done...... Cheers Rob

Just got myself a cheapo 300w inverter from Argos to power my laptop. Connected it via the cig lighter socket (at opposite end of boat to my solitary leisure battery) and on powering up the laptop I had the low voltage alarm coming on intermittently according to the power demands of the computer. Then connected it direct to my battery with the supplied "jump leads", and ran a standard 230v extension cable to the laptop at the front of the boat - all is fine. Only problem is the supplied leads are too short so the inverter had to be temporarily mounted on my cruiser stern - not ideal! Questions: 1) I obviously need to hard wire the inverter near to my battery. Can I just find a suitable point to make a connection behind my instrument panel where all the fuses are (read something about "bushbars"could I connect to these???). This would allow me to make use of the existing supplied cables, and not have to go about making a new battery connection and then feeding cables from the engine room into the cabin. 2) Does the problem I've encountered suggest an issue with my existing 12 domestic line feeding the other end of the boat. Read a bit about cable diameters and voltage drops etc - hoping I dont need to re-wire!! Many thanks Rob

Yes it was a rebore, and its had plenty of thrashings on the Thames (and lengthy canal trips too). The smoke does tend to dissapear when heavily underway on the river, but always comes back. What sort of running time does it normally take to get the rings bedded in? Still doesnt answer why the pump timing has been overly adjusted though after refitting the engine (advanced as far as possible!!!). Surely this must affect the smoke ? Engine also sounds rough too, and someone told me they thought it was "missing" but I'm not really sure what that sounds like.

No, I'm still working on it ! Basically I'm getting erratic oil pressures - thankfully its never low but often on starting its right off the scale (max) and then flickers a lot when underway. Seems to have stabilised a bit after the last filter/oil change. The oil has been diagnosed with containing a lot of diesel, so I also need to check the lift pump. But more likely I think its the result of a bad recon job. Even after the recon the pump timing has been set well advanced and it still smokes. Not good. Think I'll just live with it and run it till it dies!

Yes- interesting point about the Jabsco. Now everything is working fine with Thermostat correctly inserted ~(!!), but its true, as soon as the temp hits 80 and the stat opens, I get really rapid cooling down to about 70 and then it goes up again. So yes the Jabsco is probably not really required, but think I'll keep it there just in case... Interesting to have a BMC mariniser adding to the discussion though - who was the company incidently? Think mine was done by "Tempest Diesels"???

Ok, this is a very difficult post to write. ...when I said "definately not upside down", what I meant was that I put it in the same way up as the one I took out. Given that the engine had supposedly just been "reconditioned", I assumed this would be correct and thought no more about it. Knowing more now, imagine my surprise when I pulled the housing off and saw the spring sticking out of the top!!! Inserted in correct orientation and now all is well and good. What a fool, and sorry to waste peoples time - but thanks for all the replies. Now just got to sort out the misfiring, diesel in oil, and oil pressure issues but thats another topic altogether. I'll do some more investigations first this time!!! Cheers Rob PS On the thermostat difference issue, didnt have a camera available but there were subtle differences between the old and new ones. However the old one was definatley not a bypass type with the lower washer. It just had a hole in the "rim" bit with some sort of pin in it (presumably to let a small amount of coolant/air out from engine side? but not back the other way). The new one does not have this - should it?

Seems to have been a problem since I got the boat last year. I'm only just getting round to doing something about it, because of an endless list of other engine/boat issues that took priority. Anyway, thanks for all the replies - feeling a bit bad as I couldnt get in to the engine last night so cant report back on findings. From the responses I am thinking that it can only be due to coolant getting past the stat somehow, probably because its not sealing correctly (definatley not upside down!!) but possibly because of some faulty bypass system. I'll try and get in tonight and have a look... Cheers Rob

Hi alan, sorry I'm cross posting now! This gasket you speak of - could you provide more details. Does the gasket 'trap down' the stat or is the stat in direct contact with the housing (I mean cover thing..?) Cheers Rob

Thanks for your replies - just checked out the other thread regarding bypass-v non bypass stats, most interesting. Not sure if my issue is related to that thread, since my problem is too much cooling! Regarding the issue of whether my stat is the correct one and functioning - the new one I've bought is from ASAP and is the standard 82oC one they sell for the BMC 1.5. Didnt look exactly like the old one but close enough. Incidently the old one seemed in working order so I'm not convinced the stat is the problem. I forgot to mention that the manifold and keel cooling hose are getting hot shortly after starting the engine (when gauge still reading 40oC - its minimum reading). I've taken this to mean that water is indeed getting into my cooling circuit too soon ie before the engine is up to temperature. Having never replaced a thermostat before I was a little concerned when I dropped it in - didnt seem to be a particularly tight fit and there was no washers or o-rings involved. Should the housing effectively clamp down on the theromstat to make the seal? Cheers Rob.

I have an interesting problem which appears to be seldom discussed on the various forums regarding my keel cooled BMC. It struggles to reach the correct operating temperature (82oC stat) and appears to cool excessively when under load resulting in constantly high oil pressure. I tried replacing the thermostat but this didnt help. My current diagnosis is that somehow the coolant is getting passed the thermostat even when closed, and under load the cooling is increased due to increased water circulation through the brass jabsco assisted keel cooling circuit. Does anyone else have any thoughts on what might be causing this and any possible remedies? I was thinking of testing this tonight by removing the housing and holding the stat down and running the engine. Presumably (!!) no coolant should come gushing out while the engine is still cold? If so, I guess the thermostat is not sealing correctly - are there any washers etc which may help? Many thanks Rob

Apologies for "butting in". I've been looking around for more info on these Gorton & Wilson characters too. I've recently bought a boat, and the only history I have with it is an old safety cert. stating that it was built in 85 buy these two chaps. The surveyor reckons it is more like a late seventies early 80s build, so I'm just a little curious. Is there any distinctive features of the boats built by G & W ? Mine has a what I think is a Staffordshire Knot in the engine bay under the cruiser stern - anyone else seen this? What about the arrows over the water tank lid as well - I think Wilsons are quite distinctive but could be wrong. Cheers!