Lister hydraulic reverse gearbox

[Dale f]

My Lister I tronic reverse box is stuck in Drive I have taken the top off and I've worked out roughly how it works the hydraulic oil forces on a piston that releases a cone shape with friction material on it the engine and gearbox has not been run for five years maybe 6 it seems like the friction material is stuck to the metal face the piston that drives the Faulks that supposed to pull the comb away from the cone seems to be stuck if you try manually pushing the 4 Weaver forward to release the friction material to put it into neutral it seems to be jammed when I start the engine up with the cover off they seems to be sufficient amount of oil flows from the pump if I have my finger on the arm feed it is too strong for me to stop it flowing if I put a chisel between the Adjustment Bolt and therefore comma so trying to manually Paul the friction material and come back to release the outer drum it will not move no matter what I have cut the outer casing of the cone the hydrolastic brake that runs on the outside of the drum seems to be fine I would have thought manually pushing the arm forward lever in it forward would manually operate the cone I have had similar sort of problems before on normal Clutches on cars and vans where they have been left for many years where they bomb their self to the surface metal due to humidity or damp looking at the cutaway schematic of the gearbox I can see that there is to boil ways behind the back of the cone I imagine this is to keep the friction material wild to stop excessive wear it doesn't look like the oil feed from the back is to drive the Karen forward only the cylinder in the top that pushes on the Canon operation arm I can select the brake friction material off which will allow me to heat the drum with a blow torch to see whether the fiction material will release from the inside of the cone I wondered whether anybody else had had a similar problem when it had been left for a number of years without being used at the fits of maternal as bonding itself to the metal inside cone if anything in this posting is is spelt incorrectly doesn't make sense I use speech to text I would like to know if anybody else is that the same no problem

[RLWP]

Yes a cone will stick in if left for a long time

 

Usually they are a pig to release 

 

Richard 

[Tony Brooks]

Try undoing the hexagon plug in the middle of the three bolt, roughly triangular cover at the back of the piston and than screwing a cover bolt inito the hole. This may give enough force on the piston to force the cone free. Don't strip the thread in the triangular cover!

[RLWP]

29 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Try undoing the hexagon plug in the middle of the three bolt, roughly triangular cover at the back of the piston and than screwing a cover bolt inito the hole. This may give enough force on the piston to force the cone free. Don't strip the thread in the triangular cover!

And don't punch the centre out of the piston either. Stop when the piston reaches the circlip

 

I would try this trick with the gearbox oil good and hot. You could also see what happened revving the engine to load the clutch. if you select reverse, chances are The engine will stall, it just might get the cone to release 

 

I have been most successful with the clutch assembly out and by striking the clutch housing repeatedly 

 

Richard 

[Tony Brooks]

I agree with that. get some pressure on the fork and then use a nice strong brass drift abnd a decent hammer to strike the drum. Probably best to turn the engine over so you work all around the drum.

[Dale f]

Success took another 3 hours at least the cone only lives out of it very small amount about 1 mm just enough for the friction material to slip I noticed on the schematic that there is two oil feeds from the back they came out good quotes to you for you to be pushed between the cone and friction material quite a simple design I didn't use the bowl through the centre to push the piston I used to wedge to hammer between the adjusting bolt and the Kone lifting arm I wouldn't like to estimate how much pressure was on it but it was almost at break point at least that's one more job out of the way I've had nothing but problems since I taken this boat the engine was seized on the crank sump was full of water somebody has put the side plate on pressing on the oil feed pipe that feeds the top rockers I had to remove the pipe infile AV into the end of it  I also repent it slightly  so when the cover was reported on  it wasn't pressing  on the pipe blocking the end  on the inside of the oil pump  I also notice  that this hasn't got a oil filter  and the two boil spaces  that go between the pump  and where the filter should be  was also  pressing hard  on the pump  obviously the gasket on the side is above 1 mil thick  and putting it back with no gasket on it only a bit of sealant  was pushing the casing and the fittings are on to the pump  also somebody and pushed a piece of material  at least put ups into the exhaust  looks like it had been in there for a long while stopping the exhaust fumes  from leaving the exhaust and building up excess back pressure  stopping the blister from increasing RPM also the water pump which is driven from the back of the cam I've been sitting with water in the bottom the gears or on the bottom of it was badly corroded and Teeth broken off and the end of the camera looks cam damaged I have now put electric water pump on  with a electric water heater thermostat  between the two barrels  that turns the pump on  when the temperatures are barrels week to certain temperature  it hasn't got a thermostat in at the moment  so the temperature sensor stops the barrels running too cold  and causing excess friction on the piston and rings  also the had also been put on with no gasket underneath them so the piston came roughly 1 millimetre above the barrel I had to make two copper rings from one meal lighting cable twin and earth I pressed this into the edge of the cylinder head all the way round and filed the ends so they was all together Maida secondary and sold with the two rings side by side so it made one flat ring with two pieces of 1 mil copper wire soldered these together at different intervals then put the thickest shame that I had on top of them this girl is enough clearance to stop the piston touching the cylinder head this is a water cooled Lister in it as for big rubbers between the head and the barrels where the Waterways are they stick above the barrel of good 6 ml so when you tighten the head down there's still quite a lot of compression between the head and the Block I've noticed since it's all been took down to the correct settings you can still get a feeler gauge between the head and the Block roughly quarter of a millimetre ed down there still quite a lot compression between the airedale up archive notice n64 in town to the crack settings you can still get a feel the gauge between the hed and the block   

[Tony Brooks]

Please - can you get access to proper screen and keyboard so you stop writing gibberish. Please also use some punctuation, its hard reading. At least use paragraphs. I don't have time to try to work out what you actually mean.

[RLWP]

7 hours ago, Dale f said:

Success <snip>

Thank goodness for that, because there's no way I'm going to try and interpret another stream of consciousness 

 

Well done, whatever you did

 

Richard