Success took another 3 hours at least the cone only lives out of it very small amount about 1 mm just enough for the friction material to slip I noticed on the schematic that there is two oil feeds from the back they came out good quotes to you for you to be pushed between the cone and friction material quite a simple design I didn't use the bowl through the centre to push the piston I used to wedge to hammer between the adjusting bolt and the Kone lifting arm I wouldn't like to estimate how much pressure was on it but it was almost at break point at least that's one more job out of the way I've had nothing but problems since I taken this boat the engine was seized on the crank sump was full of water somebody has put the side plate on pressing on the oil feed pipe that feeds the top rockers I had to remove the pipe infile AV into the end of it I also repent it slightly so when the cover was reported on it wasn't pressing on the pipe blocking the end on the inside of the oil pump I also notice that this hasn't got a oil filter and the two boil spaces that go between the pump and where the filter should be was also pressing hard on the pump obviously the gasket on the side is above 1 mil thick and putting it back with no gasket on it only a bit of sealant was pushing the casing and the fittings are on to the pump also somebody and pushed a piece of material at least put ups into the exhaust looks like it had been in there for a long while stopping the exhaust fumes from leaving the exhaust and building up excess back pressure stopping the blister from increasing RPM also the water pump which is driven from the back of the cam I've been sitting with water in the bottom the gears or on the bottom of it was badly corroded and Teeth broken off and the end of the camera looks cam damaged I have now put electric water pump on with a electric water heater thermostat between the two barrels that turns the pump on when the temperatures are barrels week to certain temperature it hasn't got a thermostat in at the moment so the temperature sensor stops the barrels running too cold and causing excess friction on the piston and rings also the had also been put on with no gasket underneath them so the piston came roughly 1 millimetre above the barrel I had to make two copper rings from one meal lighting cable twin and earth I pressed this into the edge of the cylinder head all the way round and filed the ends so they was all together Maida secondary and sold with the two rings side by side so it made one flat ring with two pieces of 1 mil copper wire soldered these together at different intervals then put the thickest shame that I had on top of them this girl is enough clearance to stop the piston touching the cylinder head this is a water cooled Lister in it as for big rubbers between the head and the barrels where the Waterways are they stick above the barrel of good 6 ml so when you tighten the head down there's still quite a lot of compression between the head and the Block I've noticed since it's all been took down to the correct settings you can still get a feeler gauge between the head and the Block roughly quarter of a millimetre ed down there still quite a lot compression between the airedale up archive notice n64 in town to the crack settings you can still get a feel the gauge between the hed and the block