Stovax Brunel 1A

[Retardedrocker]

 

Today I undertook what is probably my least favourite annual task: sweeping the chimney. It involves removing the top baffle plate and that involves removing the fire bricks.

 

This is the second time I've done it and the second time I've broken the fire bricks trying to get them out.

 

Can it be done, or are the bricks sacrificial?

 

Cheers,

T.

[valrene9600]

Is the title the name of the stove?

Firebricks cracking neatly into two can be set back in place with fire cement. I think you are doing something wrong to keep breaking bricks. My top plate sits on top of bricks and lifts out. Stoves have many designs so maybe someone with your stove will advise.

[valrene9600]

http://www.stovax.com/download/Technical%20Documents/1.%20Stoves/Traditional/Wood%20&%20Multi-fuel/Brunel/Brunel%20Installation%20&%20User%20Instructions.pdf

There you go, Google is a friend.

Edited July 4, 2016 by valrene9600

[Tony Brooks]

Is the title the name of the stove?

Firebricks cracking neatly into two can be set back in place with fire cement. I think you are doing something wrong to keep breaking bricks. My top plate sits on top of bricks and lifts out. Stoves have many designs so maybe someone with your stove will advise.

 

I don't, I have the same stove and suffer the same broken fire bricks. Its a poor design.

 

The side fire bricks slot behind a lip at the front of the stove and the back faces secure the back fire brick. The gaps are barely enough to swing the new front firebricks into place so the jamb on ash that finds its way into the small gaps.

 

I bought a large sheet of the materiel so I can cut my own replacements. It cost about £45 and will last both my stoves for years.

 

Fire cement does not seem to be very effective on vermiculite board but suspect white car exhaust paste might do the job.

 

 

I find that I can push the throat plate forwards and upwards to get just enough space behind to pull most of the soot out by hand.

Edited July 4, 2016 by Tony Brooks

[dor]

Getting the side bricks back is a pain. Firstly the stove has to be scrupulously clean - no grit anywhere. Then before putting the side bricks back I chamfer the top and bottom edges which helps to get them back easily and more easily to get out. This makes a BIG difference.

 

The side bricks will last for about three stripdowns, the back brick usually two as it is more prone to getting burnt away.

 

I rarely burn wood these days as that was a major cause of the flue blocking up above the baffle plate, this significantly reduces the decoking interval - I use Excel.

 

I agree though - crap design and I wouldn't buy another one.

[Retardedrocker]

Is the title the name of the stove?

Firebricks cracking neatly into two can be set back in place with fire cement. I think you are doing something wrong to keep breaking bricks. My top plate sits on top of bricks and lifts out. Stoves have many designs so maybe someone with your stove will advise.

 

Well, it was meant to be, but there was a bit of a slip of the pen (or finger.)

 

Tony, I agree, it's a very poor design. I'd rather replace the broken bricks, than try to cement them up.

 

I was thinking of machining a couple of mm off the top corner of the side bricks where they have to slip down the side of the throat plate. It ight make it a bit easier to get them in as well as out.

 

Cheers,

T.

[Tony Brooks]

I now tend to cut mine a bit under length so there is at least a chance that I can use wire to rake the ask out of the gap and thus be able to push the brick back to pull the front out. I've thought about cutting the back top corners of completely.

[Retardedrocker]

Yes, me too.

 

I'll try milling them down first and take it from there.

 

I'll let you know.

 

Cheers,

T.