Solar Pannel Wireing

[Stevie101]

Hi I've just had a solar pannel delivered from 'Bimble Solar' and the wiring diagram isn't too clear.

I've fitted the pannel part but the fitting kit that came with it contains some chunky cable for connecting to the battery. I've wired it down toward the battery but it passes the main battery switch which has really thick (as thick as my index finger) live and neg connecting to the battery.

Question: could I connect the pos/neg from the pannel controller direct the pos/neg from the battery at the back of this switch or does it have to go to the battery?

It doesn't seem to me it would make any difference but it's always good to get a second opinion lol

 

Thanks

[nicknorman]

Hi I've just had a solar pannel delivered from 'Bimble Solar' and the wiring diagram isn't too clear.

I've fitted the pannel part but the fitting kit that came with it contains some chunky cable for connecting to the battery. I've wired it down toward the battery but it passes the main battery switch which has really thick (as thick as my index finger) live and neg connecting to the battery.

Question: could I connect the pos/neg from the pannel controller direct the pos/neg from the battery at the back of this switch or does it have to go to the battery?

It doesn't seem to me it would make any difference but it's always good to get a second opinion lol

Thanks

Just to pick up on your wording, it seems unlikely that the main battery switch has positive and negative wires. More likely the positive from the battery, and then the positive carrying on to the boat's circuits. So you could put the +ve wire onto the switch, but run the -ve wire to the batteries, unless your main switch is an unusual one with 4 terminals.

 

The +ve must go via a fuse near the battery +ve or main switch. This is to protect the cable against a catastrophic short circuit should the wiring get damaged etc.

[Stevie101]

yep now you have said that I've realised its a pos+ from both battery's not a pos/neg. I feel a right lemon now lol

But I can use one of the pos+ For the battery feed. ( will a normal 12v fuse holder be ok? As the connecting cable is much thicker than normal 12v? Also what size fuse?)

I will run a neg direct to the battery.

 

Also thanks for the help 'Nicknorman'

[Bazza954]

yep now you have said that I've realised its a pos+ from both battery's not a pos/neg. I feel a right lemon now lol

But I can use one of the pos+ For the battery feed. ( will a normal 12v fuse holder be ok? As the connecting cable is much thicker than normal 12v? Also what size fuse?)

I will run a neg direct to the battery.

 

Also thanks for the help 'Nicknorman'

That depends on what you call a normal fuse holder, if the connecting cable is something like 16mm2 you will need something like a midi fuse holder.

What size fuse will depend on the output from your solar controller.

Running the neg to the battery is fine.

[Stevie101]

I meant a normal inline fuse holder or spade fuse holder

[nicknorman]

Yes I would rate the fuse perhaps 25% - 50% above the maximum output of the controller - not the max output of the current panels, in case you add more in the future. That is provided such a fuse size doesn't exceed the current carrying capability of the cable, but you'd have to tell us the size of the cable before we could work that out.

 

As said, probably best to use something like a midi fuse rather than an in-line automotive-type blade fuse, but it depends on the controller's max output.

[Bazza954]

Either type will work.

If you bought all the kit from Bimble, it could have either 10mm2 or 16mm2 cable supplied.

Edited June 19, 2015 by Bazza954

[Stevie101]

It says 6mm cable on the website?

The controller is a 20amp

[Dave Clinton]

so this is a 'kit' and there's no fuse? That's pretty shoddy.

[Stevie101]

I've only heard good things about Bimble but I do agree if a fuse is needed it should be supplied with the kit