1.5 stalls out quietly

[RLWP]

I think it's a lever, rather than a switch, on the BMC1.5.

It is, and you need a special tool to operate it

 

Lorien, if your engine won't idle, and it runs ok just above idle - I'm wondering if your idle speed is set too low

 

Richard

[Lorien]

Hi guys,

 

Troll? I've been called many things but I don't recall that one?

 

Today we moved, finally I can now confirm that the oil pressure at at idle by the guage was 18psi once the engine was warm. It has a comfortable zone when cruising, it's difficult to describe but it seems very happy going along and oil pressure sat at 38-40 psi.

 

Dead stops and hard moves raised it to 60 psi and then back to a constant 38-40psi in it's comfy zone.

 

The boat was built by Hancock and Lane, it didn't have a Rev counter so I can't confirm that properly. Tickover definately isn't what it was, I checked the stop cable just in case it was affecting things at idle but it seems set perfectly.

 

It has run well all afternoon, I just don't think it's fuel per say - it was fine so far.

 

I'm not looking for magic switches - when I had a problem with my leaking water pump this forum was very helpful. I did let you know the outcome of this.

 

I will check the fuel pump as soon as I can and let you know.

 

Cruising rules have come under great scrutiny, yes I agree we may break down but should this happen we can inform CRT and a genuine stoppage will have to take place. We are not newcomers to the canal, if a breakdown looks ominous we shall indeed have to stop and repair at a suitable location. At least for now the idle issue has not prevented us from moving.

 

I'm not sure how the idle speed is set? Or why it would suddenly become incorrect.

 

If I can figure out how to check the idle speed I will try.

 

Thanks,

Jim

[Tony Brooks]

For the adjustment. Look at the injector pump. Assuming its the common one but there are variations so if the below makes no sense please send a photo. The throttle and stop cables should connect to levers either side of a sort of turret on the top of the pump. Either side and close to the throttle lever there should be two long setscrews secured with lock nuts. One limits the maximum speed and should be under a sort of alloy tube wired to the pump. Never touch this one. The other one adjusts the idle. Loosen the locknut and screw in to speed up or screw out to slow down.

 

The oil pressure looks a bit on the low side to me (as long as the gauge is accurate) but it is enough to rule out partial seizure caused by an oil problem. I suspect the bearings are a worn or the PRV is not fully seating. However just bear my diagnosis in mind and start putting "overhaul money" away, just in case. Also when changing the oil stick with 20W50 and not 15W40 or thinner.

 

As you have not mentioned clouds of steam I think that we can rule out partial seizure because of overheating BUT it would be definite if you had told us how fast the starter turns the engine IMMEDIATELY after it stopped.

 

I did not call you a troll, I said I woudl give you the benefit of the doubt but if you will not answer questions we ask and just keep repeating your original question using different words you must expect people to get a chuffed off with you - hence the talk of magic switches. It sounds as if there may be a fuel problem but unless you start acting an advice I doubt we can solve it.

 

You need to rule out a lift pump fault AFTER you have checked and cleaned the sediment trap & strainer under the pump cap (some engines have a different pump and some have no strainer). Hence the advice to rig a temporary gravity feed to the inlet of the fuel filter. Otherwise spend money on a new pump but take acre when fitting it that you get the operating lever on the correct side of the camshaft.

 

If that does not fix it you may have an air leak (small rubber O ring around the filter centre bolt possible). There are a couple of other very rare things but the basics need checking first.