Lister ST3 & LH 150 Oil Change

[G Man]

Hellooo all,

 

Quick introduction as this is my first post (although I've marked where my question starts if you want to skip ), about a year ago me and my partner started looking for a narrow boat to call our own after enjoying many holidays previously on the canals. Fast forward a year of intense research and lots of boat viewing, to a couple of weeks ago and we can now call ourselves proud owners of our first narrowboat

 

There’s number of issues to sort out, it’s defiantly a project boat that’s going to take some time, but by the end we will have put our own stamp on it

 

A lot of our research has been done on this forum, and I’ve never posted before because as is often said, search the forum and it’s bound to have come up before. However I’ve run into an issue I could really do with a definitive answer for (if possible, many opinions might be about to follow )

 

 

Question

I’m servicing our engine (I’ve always serviced my own cars so this isn’t too out of my depth). We’ve got a Lister ST3 air cooled, with a LH150 gearbox and reduction box.

 

The oil needs changing, especially in the gearboxes as it’s emulsified.

 

So to the point now, what oil do I need, as far as I can tell...

 

Engine: 20w50 API SF/CC and 7.5 litres of it (preferably mineral not semi-synthetic)

Gearboxes: (both the main and reduction box) EP 80w90 GL4 and 1.2 litres in each box.

 

My worry is, should i be strict with the SF/CC, some people seem to suggest don’t stray from that grade at all?

Same with the gear oil, can you use GL5 on these boxes, or must it be GL4? As far as I can tell GL5 would be okay if certain parts aren’t brass, however I don’t know if they are or not.

Also do those amounts sound right? I aware too much oil can be as bad as too little.

 

You’re help will be greatly appreciated, and chances are I’ll be around on here asking a lot more questions, and hopefully in time being able to give my knowledge back to someone else in my position now

 

Cheers,

J

[RLWP]

Don't worry too much about the oil spec for the gearboxes. I use AG90, an EP80 or 90 of any type will be fine. 1.2 litres in the main box, 0.3 litres in the reduction box

 

Richard

[G Man]

Cheers for that it's appreciated. From what i hear these engines are pretty bullet proof, but I still like to minimise any risks if i can

 

Cheers,

J

[RLWP]

They are indeed, which is their strength and their weakness. They keep running with awful problems, when you come to rebuild them - everything is worn out!

 

The original spec engine oil was SAE 20/20W up to 30 centigrade. I usually use Morris Golden Film SAE30 which is an API CC oil. Most chandlers have it, it's quite common in motor factor catering for the more mature vehicle as well

 

Richard

[G Man]

Haha good point on the strength/weakness, guess I'll find out one day

 

Another thing I've noticed is there seems to be two oil caps, can I pour directly into the top cap (first image "45") with the theory it will all flow down, or do i need to do half in one half in the other (second image "21") to avoid clogging the cylinder head?

 

 

 

 

 

Also I appear to have the version without an oil filter, and although it looks possible to add one, is it worth while or best left as it was built?

 

Cheers,
J

[RLWP]

Top cap is fine, you'll struggle with the other on most installations

 

Your engine does has a filter - have a look on page 87, item 1. It's perfect for filtering out housebricks and small animals

 

The replaceable oil filter option seems to be fitted mostly to plant and equipment, the boat engines rarely have this feature

 

Richard

[Sabcat]

I use a 15/40 mineral oil in my ST3 API CF which according to a spec chart I can no longer find a link to can be used where CD is specified which according to the Lister Manual I've got can be "used to advantage" except where the engine hasn't been run in.

[G Man]

So I got round the the oil change this bank holiday weekend, it went average...

 

After trying to vacuum pump the oil out of the gear boxes (which was very muddy) and not really getting anywhere fast, and having to fix the pump a few times, I gave up and found the sump plugs instead, much easier! however I'm not convinced the dipsticks are in the correct boxes, maybe someone with the same gearbox can help.

 

The reason I think this is Richard suggested 1.2L in the main box, 0.3L in the reduction, but the reduction took about 0.4 before being full, and the main box only half a liter before it was registering as full? I'm just a little concerned about putting in way too much.

 

The two dip sticks are different sizes, with the smaller of the two in the smaller reduction box, which makes sense, but they do fit in each :S is this the correct way round?

 

Also trying to suck the engine oil out was a pain also, I had run the engine for about 20 minuets but still felt painfully slow, but I couldn't find the sump plug, can't seem to find it on and manuals either, does anyone know where it is? If not or if it's too difficult to get to, I may invest in an electric oil pump.

 

Cheers,

J

[RLWP]

Long one in the reduction box, short one in the main box

 

Engine sump plug is in the side at the bottom (of course), below the engine dipstick

 

I always enjoy a minuet

 

Richard

Edited May 5, 2015 by RLWP

[G Man]

Oil Changed!

 

Found the sump plug on the engine, and put the correct dip sticks in the gear boxes, so all seem's good now

 

Thanks for help guys, muchly appreciated

 

I'll be back in a couple of days with my next problem I'm sure

 

Cheers,

J

[G Man]

I did notice it had no air filter in the intake unit, but logic tells me it should do, otherwise why would it have an housing that would fit one?

 

one such as http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310868960085?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Cheers,

J

[Rose Narrowboats]

Gearbox oil should be SAE80 (Morris Lubricants offer one). Be very careful using if using EP oils to make sure it has a low GL rating. I'm not recommending it, but we got away with GL4 for years. I would NOT use API GL-5.

 

Likewise there is potential for glazing the engine if anything above CC spec is used, regardless of what any oil manufacturers might say. Many years ago an entire fleet of air cooled Listers ended up horribly glazed after Castrol changed the oil they were using.

 

Lister's fix was amusing: Send out mechanic to change oil, block off cooling vents, run flat out whilst in gear. Retire to van and drink from thermos until the (voluminous) smoke cleared.

[RLWP]

My preferred filter is one like this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381125272287

 

It filters properly and you can wash and oil it several times

 

Richard

[David Mack]

On ‎28‎/‎04‎/‎2015 at 16:18, RLWP said:

They are indeed, which is their strength and their weakness. They keep running with awful problems, when you come to rebuild them - everything is worn out!

 

The original spec engine oil was SAE 20/20W up to 30 centigrade. I usually use Morris Golden Film SAE30 which is an API CC oil. Most chandlers have it, it's quite common in motor factor catering for the more mature vehicle as well

 

Richard

Reviving an old thread...

Belfast has a Lister ST3 with a PRM 160 gearbox (replacing the original LH150).

The Lister manual advise the following oil grades (API CC):

I was going to use 15W40, but I have access to Morris straight 30 oil. Will this be OK, given that I can't imagine I will often be starting the engine at temperatures above 30 degrees?

And presumably I can use the same oil in the gearbox.

 

[RLWP]

We sell straight 30 for the air cooled Listers, the Morris will be fine

Richard

[David Mack]

Thanks Richard

David

[RLWP]

20 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Thanks Richard

David

HNBC members get a discount on oil, and we sell 25 litre containers. And filters...