BMC 1.5. Drinking water

[dor]

 

My experience of A Series engines (and also small leaks on central heating systems) suggests otherwise. A slow leak meeting hot metal tends to evaporate rather than collect in a pool.

 

The water pump with a worn bearing also only leaks water when it is running, and as it drip downwards it meets a spinning pulley and gets sprayed everywhere or atomised. Don't forget we are looking for one drip of water every five or ten seconds, not a trickle. still only a suggestion though. I've spent many an hour chasing similar leaks on Minis and it's usually the water pump!

 

MtB

P.S. It's just that if the OP is gonna start with spannerwork having ruled out core plugs, the water pump is an easier option than the head gasket!

 

My experience of many 'A' series engines is that the water pump with a worn bearing hardly leaks at all while engine is running, but sort of belches and throws out a slosh of water when the engine stops. Doesn't mean this is what happens in all cases of course.

 

Co-inciding with the new pipe might be just that - coincidence, which would suggest an air lock. That much water should however be noticable if it is coming out somewhere, and a head gasket is unlikely if no other symptoms have been seen.

 

Does the water disappear proportionately during the 8 hours cruise, or just after a long cruise. I.e once the engine is hot, try checking level at hourly intervals (but be very careful opening the cap on the exhaust manifold as water will gush out - big cloth over it and undo very slowly until hissing stops.

[Darren72]

When the head gasket went on my MGB (1.8 litre B series) there wasn't any gushing boiling water. What I noticed was pressure in the header tank when the engine was cold and disappearing coolant. It didn't loose much, just enough to be noticeable. I changed the head gasket and the problem went away. I was baffled originally about what the cause was and was given the solution by one of the fitters in the flight shed at Longbridge.

 

 

 

When cold, say the morning after the days chugging when I check the header tank, I some times get a gurgling when I open the top.

EDIT post 17.

 

Its a skin tank, not ski tank.

 

Of more importance re item 2. How does the water level in the header tank compare with the water line on the boat?

 

MtBM's post about any leak evaporating is why I suggested pressure testing a cold engine.

 

Whats the reason for knowing the water level in the header compared to water line on the boat.

What make is the builder? only I came across twice a Colecraft with twin skin tanks that were connected with a angle iron welded across the front bulkhead. It had rusted through the bulkhead and was filling up under the cabin floor. They were a big job to repair.

 

Not mine

[Darren72]

http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee489/tikka72/e774f858adbc5c11afaf649953438c0d.jpg

 

 

This is a photo of my engine. Dont know if it will help. PLEASE NOTE. This was taken on the day of survey 3 years ago.

[Darren72]

1. An internal leak in any calorifier engine coil but that usually causes water to keep pouring out of the engine filler because of domestic water pump pressure.

 

When we leave the boat we turn off the electric via grounding the 12 volt supply to fridge, pumps etc and isolate the water from the tank. When we return we obviously turn it back on but when we do I have noticed a slight increase in the domestic water pump, seems to be on more only for about 3-5 seconds then usual when it pressures back up. I have checked the calorifier, do I need to check it again?

 

I wouldn't want to change the water pump and or head gasket just to find out it isn't that. Changing the head gasket wouldn't harm though would it? Apart from harming my wallet.

Clutching at straws now!

[Chalky]

When cold, say the morning after the days chugging when I check the header tank, I some times get a gurgling when I open the top.

 

 

From memory it was definite pressure, not a vacuum. (It's been rebuilt since with a short engine 0.04" overbored - 1840cc! big valve head etc)

 

You can buy kits that will test the coolant for presence of combustion products that would indicate a leat into the water gallery.

 

A water pump on a b series and a head gasket are both DIY jobs. I've done both on a petrol B - water pump once, head gasket a couple of times (cracked head caused by cheap 4* petrol). It's a simple engine and an easy diy job. You just need the appropriate AF spanners, sockets and a torque wrench. The head is heavy (especially when having to reach across a car to lift it).

[Tony Brooks]

Whats the reason for knowing the water level in the header compared to water line on the boat.

 

 

 

 

 

Because if it is an external leak on the skin tank the level in the tank would tend to end up around the wtaer line level after a lo---------------ng [period of standing, especially if you left the pressure cap off.

 

Does the 1.8 need a crowsfoot spanner for the centre head nuts, I expect it does so unless you have one not a DIY job. The diesel has an extra row of had studs so it is not such a good idea extrapolating from petrol experience.

[Darren72]

Found some water in the bilge under the gearbox this weekend. Now I have an idea where to look.