Isuzu 35 engine

[colinjw]

Colin

 

Does the engine come with a good detailed (workshop type) manual or just a basic "do this to change the oil" type manual?

 

Chris

Hi Chris,

 

The handbook supplied with the engine is quite adequate to show how to carry out basic maintenance such as oil and filter change, checking tappets and relatively simple jobs like that. To answer your question, it is basic.

 

The oil change is very easy to do as there is a pump on the engine to suck the oil from the sump and pump it into a container. The oil filter is awkward to remove if you don't have a filter removal strap/tool but is easy enough to replace without the tool.

 

An important thing to remember is to shut the small valve under the pump after pumping out the oil otherwise oil can pass the pump and make a mess of your bilge.

 

The fuel filters are also a breeze to do as the engine has a priming pump which comes on when the ignition is switched on and so no messy priming required.

 

I do have a very detailed handbook for the 38 h.p. but I can't remember where I got it from. I will have a look next time I'm down and try to find out where I got it from.

 

If you have any queries about this, please feel free to pm me and I will get back to you.

 

Colin

 

p.s. Somewhere in the back of the grey cells, a little bird is saying that I got the detailed handbook from Isuzu themselves. It would be worth a call to them. I seem to recall it was only about £15 or so but is not the official Isuzu handbook but still very detailed.

Edited November 14, 2006 by colinjw

[chris w]

Many thanks Colin

[Roderick]

I think that running the engine in gear for battery charging purposes is a waste of fuel, a safety hazard and a pointless churning of mud.

 

On the other hand, increasing the revs above tick-over whilst in neutral will dramatically improve alternator charging performance - compare for example, to the speed at which diesel generators run. I suspect also that this will cause the engine to run a little hotter - probably no harm in this following the discussion about glazing.

 

If your boat is anything like mine, increaseing the revs will also stop everything in the galley from rattling due to the low frequency resonances of the tick-over speed

 

I would not mind betting that the extra fuel used for these extra revs is marginal and certainly much less than when causing unnecessary movement of water!

 

Cheers, Roderick

[chris w]

I sent the following email to HMI Isuzu yesterday but have not yet received a reply. Will post it when/if I get it.

 

Chris

 

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Is it OK to run an Isuzu 35 OUT of gear regularly to charge the boat batteries? I have read on the Web that this can lead to glazing of the bores, in diesel engines, due to the engine's not reaching correct temperature under light load. However, I have also read that API CC oil (the one specified for your marine engines) prevents bore glazing.

 

What's your advice?

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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[stuart]

Stuart

 

Can you elaborate please.

 

Chris

 

 

 

Have a poke around on this forum and you'll probably see the problem I had when the engine and gearbox physically seperated !

 

 

 

Seems to be caused by excessive vibration - Liv. boat shell.

[Yoda]

Have a poke around on this forum and you'll probably see the problem I had when the engine and gearbox physically seperated !

 

Seems to be caused by excessive vibration - Liv. boat shell.

 

I cannot believe that your engine/gearbox seperated. For this to happen there can only be two reasons. Firstly, they were not put together properly and secondly the whole engine was out of balence or not bolted down. It has nothing to do with running out of gear.

[William Martin]

I have no idea why you would want to leave the prop running when you are going nowhere - but hay!

 

 

Getting back to an earlier question - I just filled my engine with API-CF oil. The user manual says use API-CC or API-CD only. Trawling internet info sites I see API-CF described as "Can be used in place of API-CD oils." Any thoughs?

[Yoda]

I have no idea why you would want to leave the prop running when you are going nowhere - but hay!

Getting back to an earlier question - I just filled my engine with API-CF oil. The user manual says use API-CC or API-CD only. Trawling internet info sites I see API-CF described as "Can be used in place of API-CD oils." Any thoughs?

 

Just has a higher rating.

 

Basically, when you start your engine you should get it hot and that inclueds the oil. Failing to do that will cause all sorts of problems. There is no difference here to starting your car and driving 100 yards and stopping again. I recommend that engines should be run for an hour above idle speed and for half of that in the power range. that will ensure that all of the engine has got hot.

 

Modern diesel oils are made for high speed engines and at the top of the range oil, for turbo charged engines where the turbo is cooled and lubricated by the oil. Engines that only have light use can have single ratings fitted. This could mean SAE20 or 30 as the loadings on the bearings and temperatures will be low.

[chris w]

Take a look at http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

It appears that CC oil will give greater protection against glazed bores, due to light loading in marine diesels, than CF oil even though the latter is a higher grade oil.

Edited November 14, 2006 by chris w

[DHutch]

Have a poke around on this forum and you'll probably see the problem I had when the engine and gearbox physically seperated !

Yeah, its always possably to install (even a good engine) badly, and in such a way that it fails prematurly.

- However, you cant eaxctly blame Isuzu! Just like you cant really blame an online resalers when the courer slips up!

 

 

Daniel

[John Orentas]

Oh dear we're not going to start people running in gear while moored up again are we, they have only just got bored and stopped doing it.

 

Another one of those plausible stories with the 'experts' asserting that you are glazing your bores, sludging your engine, not warming it up and generally letting your engine lounge about to much.

 

A semi plausible theory turns into a proven fact in about 3 days around here.

 

On another thread there is someone saying, it is a proven fact that we must run engines for an hour above tick-over to warm them up before setting off, hope it doesn't catch on with taxi drivers.

 

Like urban myths these stories will disappear and pop up again in a regular cycle.