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How to start a Ruston hornsby 2ydm

Colin Brendan

By Colin Brendan
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Timleech Veteran II

Timleech

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Throttle part open is usually best, then ease back to a fast tickover once started, to give a few moments for oil & water to start circulating before giving it some work to do.

Dunno about 'thrust at full', it's not a rocket engine wink.png

Start out of gear.

 

Tim

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Timleech Veteran II

Timleech

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Best to get one of those newfangled key start engines, they are GREAT! And I'll give you fifty quid for the old Ruston....

 

biggrin.png

 

MtB

I take it you know the OP's engine & that it's hand start only? If so, I could supply some electric start bits for it wink.png

 

Tim

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Timleech Veteran II

Timleech

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Only the engine manual says to move the speed lever over to full speed position...

 

Don't think I've ever had the thing at full speed so sounds a bit OTT.

 

Should I ignore the manual?

 

Yes, it's just to make sure that the pump is injecting at 'full fuel', a little bit of throttle should be enough to ensure that.

 

Oh, does it have electric start?

Tim

 

Edit, I've just had a look at my (Ruston England) YD manual. It says that the speed control must be at 'full speed' for the excess fuel (cold start) device to operate, in practice as I've said before usually part throttle is enough to push the rack inside the pump right over and allow the excess fuel trip to work (the excess trip lets the fuel rack go a bit further, so that a bit of extra fuel is delivered for each stroke until the governor cuts in, rather like the choke on a petrol engine).

Try various things & see what works for you, you're not likely to hurt it.

 

Tim

Edited by Timleech
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billh Rising Star

billh

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Electric start 6YDA on our 22RB- If it's really cold, throttle lever to full , press button for excess fuel on the injection pump, heaters for 20 secs, press start button , throttle back to fast idle once started.

Hand start 2VTH- full throttle, decompress, wind like hell with one hand, flick decompressors off with other hand, usually starts before the starter expires.

Hand/Electric start 3VRH, roughly the same process as above with the addition of a little device in the inlet manifold that allows a little fire to be lit in it to warm the incoming air . Rustons- very reliable, never fail to start (eventually). Plenty of smoke too.

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Colin Brendan Contributor

Colin Brendan

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Thanks for all the tips. I'll try part throttle and see how it goes.

 

Been starting it with the throttle fairly closed up till now. It started fine but gave very uneven strokes, so just wanted to check how to do it proper.

 

On a different note, when I pull the engine stop to shut it down should there be a fairly hefty clunk when it stops?

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jake_crew Rising Star

jake_crewDonate to Canal World

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Ours (my brothers really) is a 1930s Gleniffer. But we have a raised hand start mechanism, incorporating a ratchet on the lower chain wheel. EDIT to add - not fitted in the video..

 

Most hand start gear seems to be similar to bring the cranking handle up to a sensible height. A ratchet chain wheel at one end of the crank, a bike type chain up to the waist height shaft for the cranking handle.

 

With hand start gear, the ratchet will slip when the engine is running. If the engine kicks backwards as it stops, the ratchet will engage momentarily, and then click/clunk as the pawl drops out - no matter how it was started.

Edited by jake_crew
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