Did I do the right thing. Gearbox oil etc

[blackrose]

Now that I know how to do it, it's simple, so will do 2 gearbox oil changes a year with top ups in between, and I've already bought spare oil filters.

 

Does anyone know if changing the fuel filter (Canaline 52) is just a matter of :

 

1. close the fuel supply isolator.

2. unscrew the filter and remove. (make sure there is no dirt on the underside o-ring mating face)

3. Screw new one on. (smear a bit of diesel on the o-ring first with a clean finger)

4. Open isolator.

5. Start engine

 

?

 

 

 

Don't you have a water separator/sediment trap before the fuel filter? If so you should probably change that at the same time.

Edited July 5, 2013 by blackrose

[Keeping Up]

If you have a rag ready, as you withdraw the dipstick, if you quickly press it against the rag, you will then get an oily patch on the rag that fairly accurately reflects the level that is so hard to see on the stick.

 

Another tip is that as you unscrew the filler/dipstick, a lot of the oil is draining off it as you turn it that large number of twists required. But the length of the screw thread almost exactly matches the difference between the empty and full markers.

 

So, if instead you just stand the stick in on top of its threads, without screwing it in, and then withdraw it quickly, if the oil shows as being on the empty marker line, that means that when properly fully screwed in it would be on the full line. A bit easier that way, particularly if you decide to check several times.

 

I seem to recall Allan Jones, (Keeping Up) has revealed a better trick for easily ascertaining correct level, but can't for the life of me remember what it was!

 

You've just about covered my tips, Alan. First, as you say, don't screw it in and then regard the Min as the Max, and the bottom of the stick as the Min; then secondly I use a piece of kitchen paper which I place flat on the edge of the deck beside me so that while the top of the stick (which I'll be holding) overhangs the space where I'm standing, the stick part can lay flat on the paper while I rotate the nut, and it leaves an oily trail that is easy to read.

[DHutch]

Another tip is that as you unscrew the filler/dipstick, a lot of the oil is draining off it as you turn it that large number of twists required. But the length of the screw thread almost exactly matches the difference between the empty and full markers.

 

So, if instead you just stand the stick in on top of its threads, without screwing it in, and then withdraw it quickly, if the oil shows as being on the empty marker line, that means that when properly fully screwed in it would be on the full line. A bit easier that way, particularly if you decide to check several times.

Interestingly, the oil level on honda engines, is designed to be read just as you describe.

- Unscrew

- Wipe clean

- Place in hole (not screwing in)

- Read level

 

 

 

Daniel