Sealing leaky windows in the bow doors.

[TeaDrinkingFool]

We've been getting an ever increasing damp patch under our bow doors for the last week and water seems to be getting around the glass. Whats the best way to go about resealing this? Should I just squeeze some clear exterior sealant around them or is there something better I can use? Thanks!

[Ex- Member]

We've been getting an ever increasing damp patch under our bow doors for the last week and water seems to be getting around the glass. Whats the best way to go about resealing this? Should I just squeeze some clear exterior sealant around them or is there something better I can use? Thanks!

 

Could depend on how their fitted, a good sealer might seal it up, for how long though?.

 

Personally with water ingress from glass inset in wood or steel, I would remove and refit. Main reason for this approach is you will know what damage ie rot / rust if any has occurred to the inner frame that might be the cause of the leak in the first place. If all looks good though and it's simply a failure of existing sealer then carefully raking the old out and resealing is an option.

 

There are many good sealers, personally I use Stixall. you will need to clean/rake out old sealer dirt moisture before sealing though if you want it to last anytime.

 

 

 

[TeaDrinkingFool]

Ah that sounds more complicated than I thought. Not sure how I would even get the glass out of the wooden door frame! I will take a look at Stixall though.

Anyone ever taken the glass out of their doors?

[Ex- Member]

Ah that sounds more complicated than I thought. Not sure how I would even get the glass out of the wooden door frame! I will take a look at Stixall though.

Anyone ever taken the glass out of their doors?

 

Generally some kind of beading secures the glass into the door, you'll likely see either nail holes or screw holes around the beading that secures it usually internally. The glass would be set into a rebated edge externally, when the glass is fitted it's pressed against the rebated edge and forms a seal, this might have been done in putty and the putty now cracking and letting in water. If that's he case then you might get away with a sealer externally but you would need to remove some of the old putty or sealer to give the new sealer something tangible to adhere to.

 

 

 

[TeaDrinkingFool]

Ok great. I had a quick look this am and it does look like its set in a putty. Its dry and you can pick bits out with your fingernails it so cracked. Ill start by drying it all out by slinging a tarp over the bow this eve and see what it looks like once Ive picked the putty out. Thanks for your help!

[Ex- Member]

Ok great. I had a quick look this am and it does look like its set in a putty. Its dry and you can pick bits out with your fingernails it so cracked. Ill start by drying it all out by slinging a tarp over the bow this eve and see what it looks like once Ive picked the putty out. Thanks for your help!

 

Also if you remove the glass I would avoid using standard putty to replace. Use either butyl which is like a sticky Blue Tac on a reel, you can buy different sizes and for awkward places it's very versatile like plasticine and not messy like putty. I never dries fully and stays flexible, ideal for wood & glass.

 

http://www.reddiseals.com/tapes/butyl-tape-sealant.html

 

The rolls are 19m, probably too much for your needs, but this stuff keeps for years especially if kept in cellophane wrapping and will always come in handy somewhere on a boat at someime. I have quite a lot in Grey and White, but you might prefer the Brown to match wood. You can buy this in tubes also.

 

Just line your frame area with it, press glass into it just like you would putty until it oozes out of the joint, trim off excess internally, fix beading nice and tight then trim off the excess from the front with a knife. You can butly both sides if you want, where the beading presses against the glass internally to be doubly sure.

 

 

 

[bowten]

Are you sure it's not condensation?If it is water ingress it would be better to remove the glass and if you have decided to do this replace the glass with double glazed units.

[TeaDrinkingFool]

It's definitely not condensation. No condensation on any other windows yet really. Double glazed units sound good but they also sound expensive. Any pointers as to where I might look to purchase? Ill probably just seal for now but you're right if Im pulling everything out it could be the ideal opportunity I guess.

[STUBAG]

It's definitely not condensation. No condensation on any other windows yet really. Double glazed units sound good but they also sound expensive. Any pointers as to where I might look to purchase? Ill probably just seal for now but you're right if Im pulling everything out it could be the ideal opportunity I guess.

Hi TDF; if you can wait until you get here on 18th next month, Iwill show you how to remove your glass,refit and re-seal effectively and , most of all, cheaply. Double glazing, due to the small area, would neither be economical nor effective.Meanwhile, check out "ARBOKOL" sealants.

[TeaDrinkingFool]

STUBAG you legend, that would be brilliant! Thanks. Its cosy under the tarp and its stopping the leaks for now so yes that sounds a way better solution than me hacking away at it on my day off tomorrow. Ill do some of the other 2 billion jobs instead! :-)

[STUBAG]

STUBAG you legend, that would be brilliant! Thanks. Its cosy under the tarp and its stopping the leaks for now so yes that sounds a way better solution than me hacking away at it on my day off tomorrow. Ill do some of the other 2 billion jobs instead! :-)

Just checked my "build docs"..ARBOKOL AG 1 is the stuff to use.Get a tube before you arrive!

[Ex- Member]

Just checked my "build docs"..ARBOKOL AG 1 is the stuff to use.Get a tube before you arrive!

 

I can't understand why you're recommending a product designed for expansion joints to fit glass into a wood frame. ARBOKOL AG 1 is used to cope with expansion between door/window frames against brickwork or other substrate, that's why it's minimum application thickness is 6mm, so to cope with movement between brick and timber as well as many other building products, nowhere is glass mentioned in this list, and I would question it's ability to adhere to glass sufficiently that would create a watertight seal.

Simply use the proper stuff for the job, either butyl or silicone sealant.

 

 

 

 

 

[GSer]

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure if you want to bodge it!

 

Keep dripping it on where you suspect the leak to be getting in and it will find the gap eventually. I had a leaking roof light between the glass and the brass, one squirt was all it took

[STUBAG]

I can't understand why you're recommending a product designed for expansion joints to fit glass into a wood frame. ARBOKOL AG 1 is used to cope with expansion between door/window frames against brickwork or other substrate, that's why it's minimum application thickness is 6mm, so to cope with movement between brick and timber as well as many other building products, nowhere is glass mentioned in this list, and I would question it's ability to adhere to glass sufficiently that would create a watertight seal.

Simply use the proper stuff for the job, either butyl or silicone sealant.

I'm recommending this product because,in 47 years of involvement with boats, ships etc,have found little else which works as effectively. Silicone sealants harden with age, are affected by UV, and rarely maintain their "sealability" between (possibly) damp timber and anything else.If you find a product which works,why change?