BMC 1.5 Engine

[Woodstock]

Hi- we've got a BMC 1.5 engine- but dont have the manual for it (1990 NB but dont know if its the original engine). We dont know when the oil was last changed- so keen to do this soon-not sure what parts will need replacing on it. Any idea where we can get a manual from- will there be lots of different engine models and is it easy to identify the right one- any numbers that we should look for on the engine?

 

It seems the easiest way to remove the oil is through the dipstick channel- we've seen a number of syphon type pumps that do this-Again- any advice on which one to choose.

 

We could take it to a boatyard but we're keen to learn how to do this

 

Thanks- Jackie

[David Schweizer]

There are several BMC 1.5 manuals available on line, here :-

 

http://www.the-norfolk-broads.co.uk/downloads/bmc1500L-diesel-workshop-manual.pdf

 

http://www.calcuttboats.com/engines.html

 

http://www.nacnud.info/elysianboats/pdf/bmc.pdf

 

As far as removing the filter is concerned, it depends on whether you have a replacement screw on type, which just screws off, or the original fittings. The ealier type can be a pain using the method desceribed in workshop manuals, an alternative (easier) method, used by many people, was covered recently in post 2 on this thread :- http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=44092&st=0

Edited April 23, 2012 by David Schweizer

[Woodstock]

There are several BMC 1.5 manuals available on line, here :-

 

http://www.the-norfolk-broads.co.uk/downloads/bmc1500L-diesel-workshop-manual.pdf

 

http://www.calcuttboats.com/engines.html

 

http://www.nacnud.info/elysianboats/pdf/bmc.pdf

 

As far as removing the filter is concerned, it depends on whether you have a replacement screw on type, which just screws off, or the original fittings. The ealier type can be a pain using the method desceribed in workshop manuals, an alternative (easier) method, used by many people, was covered recently in post 2 on this thread :- http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=44092&st=0

Thank you so much- will have a good look at these

[Tony Brooks]

Hi- we've got a BMC 1.5 engine- but dont have the manual for it (1990 NB but dont know if its the original engine). We dont know when the oil was last changed- so keen to do this soon-not sure what parts will need replacing on it. Any idea where we can get a manual from- will there be lots of different engine models and is it easy to identify the right one- any numbers that we should look for on the engine?

 

It seems the easiest way to remove the oil is through the dipstick channel- we've seen a number of syphon type pumps that do this-Again- any advice on which one to choose.

 

We could take it to a boatyard but we're keen to learn how to do this

 

Thanks- Jackie

 

 

If you are willing to pay to have it done then phone RCR (River Canal Rescue)and ask if they are still doing their one to one DIY services this season (They may stop at Easter because of the volume of breakdown work). If they are I think it will cost you £140 (but make sure you ask) and they will send an engineer to teach you how to do a service, including fuel filters etc.

 

If they have stopped and you can wait for a month ask about the May maintenance course. We have a BMC 1.5 and you will have the chance to change the filters etc. as well as learning about a lot more of the boat.

 

I have and use the smaller Pela oil extractor but cheaper versions by Lazer are now available. Google oil extractor.

 

If your oil filter seems to be held onto the engine by two long bolts it ha snot been converted to a modern spin on type. If it is still the original filter in a reusable bowl I would suggest that you get a filter head to block gasket (Calcutt Boats or ASAP supplies if you can not source one locally) and remove the whole assembly from the engine so you can dismantle, clean and reassemble with ease.

[David Schweizer]

If you are willing to pay to have it done then phone RCR (River Canal Rescue)and ask if they are still doing their one to one DIY services this season (They may stop at Easter because of the volume of breakdown work). If they are I think it will cost you £140 (but make sure you ask) and they will send an engineer to teach you how to do a service, including fuel filters etc.

 

If they have stopped and you can wait for a month ask about the May maintenance course. We have a BMC 1.5 and you will have the chance to change the filters etc. as well as learning about a lot more of the boat.

 

I have and use the smaller Pela oil extractor but cheaper versions by Lazer are now available. Google oil extractor.

 

If your oil filter seems to be held onto the engine by two long bolts it ha snot been converted to a modern spin on type. If it is still the original filter in a reusable bowl I would suggest that you get a filter head to block gasket (Calcutt Boats or ASAP supplies if you can not source one locally) and remove the whole assembly from the engine so you can dismantle, clean and reassemble with ease.

I am sure that we have discussed this in the past Tony, but there has never been a gasket beteen the filter head and block on our BMC 1.5, and the engineer who re-built the engine did not fit one. It is just bolted metal to metal and in 15 years there has never been a drop of oil come out of the joint, perhaps the machining on the old engines was better that the more modern imports!

Edited April 23, 2012 by David Schweizer

[Tony Brooks]

I am sure that we have discussed this in the past Tony, but there has never been a gasket beteen the filter head and block on our BMC 1.5, and the engineer who re-built the engine did not fit one. It is just bolted metal to metal and in 15 years there has never been a drop of oil come out of the joint, perhaps the machining on the old engines was better that the more modern imports!

 

 

David,

 

I know we have discussed it but we have no idea how old this engine is or even if it uses a gasket there or not. If the OP takes the filter off the block and there is a gasket that gets damaged they will be stuck without a new gasket and I can not recommend silicon sealer here because of the dangers of surplus getting into the oil-ways. I can not see fitting a gasket onto a joint that does not use one would cause nay major problems. Failing to use a gasket where one is needed or damaged would result in an oil leak.

 

Its a bit like the bleeding thing. I seem to recall that your engine bleeds easily yet many others are difficult. I try to write for the worts case and hope things will be better.

[David Schweizer]

David,

 

I know we have discussed it but we have no idea how old this engine is or even if it uses a gasket there or not. If the OP takes the filter off the block and there is a gasket that gets damaged they will be stuck without a new gasket and I can not recommend silicon sealer here because of the dangers of surplus getting into the oil-ways. I can not see fitting a gasket onto a joint that does not use one would cause nay major problems. Failing to use a gasket where one is needed or damaged would result in an oil leak.

 

Its a bit like the bleeding thing. I seem to recall that your engine bleeds easily yet many others are difficult. I try to write for the worts case and hope things will be better.

Yes that s a fair point, but if stuck in such circumstances, I would simply knock up (literally) a new one from some thick brown paper and a bit of grease. Presumably you teach these time honoured solutions to your students.

[Tony Brooks]

Yes that s a fair point, but if stuck in such circumstances, I would simply knock up (literally) a new one from some thick brown paper and a bit of grease. Presumably you teach these time honoured solutions to your students.

 

 

So would I, but we come back to not knowing much about the OPs. You and I consider making a gasket a trivial matter but having seen the MV students trying it and they were supposed to have been selected as suitable I would never assume a poster would find it easy.

 

No, we do not show the Boaters' courses how to make gaskets because in some instances (Jabsco pumps) the thickness is critical, the material chosen may also be wrong, and finally we do not have time - I just wish we did.

[RobinJ]

I am sure that we have discussed this in the past Tony, but there has never been a gasket beteen the filter head and block on our BMC 1.5, and the engineer who re-built the engine did not fit one. It is just bolted metal to metal and in 15 years there has never been a drop of oil come out of the joint, perhaps the machining on the old engines was better that the more modern imports!

I seem to remember there was some sort of bush to seal the oil ways to the filter head?

I assume this is due to the short cut of removing the filter head rather than the filter because of accessibility?

 

Presumably the sump plug is not easy to get to, as this is the best way to fit an oil pump, but with a 1.5, changing the oil is normally a simple matter of draining off, cleaning the filter and re-filling.