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Vetus control panel volt meter


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The volt meter on my Vetus control panel has failed (Its the one that has a combined engine instrument, RPM indicator, starter key, etc). Does any one know if it is possible to replace the meter or am I in to a new control panel? If any one has done this some top tips this would be very useful.

Thanks in anticipation.

Lewis.

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Are you sure its failed rather than a loose connection etc ??

 

I believe you can buy them from Vetus for about £50 rather than change the whole panel.

 

Try talking to Venetian/Kings Lock at Middlewich - they are normally very knowledgeable about Vetus bits.

Although I think the voltmeter you have says Vetus (badged OEM), it might be replaceable by a Durite one which is about £20.

 

Don't know if they are same spec, but you could remove your one to check the back if its definitely duff and check with Durite before buying

a pukka Vetus one.

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No experience of this problem, but having experience of Vetus I suspect a new panel will be a tad on the expensive side. I would work through the connections from the engine to the panel as they have been known to corrode at the sockets from the engine loom. The buzzer on my Vetus panel only works if the mood takes it.

 

I agree with that Willawaw character that a call to King's Lock boatyard would be beneficial to you.

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but having experience of Vetus I suspect a new panel will be a tad on the expensive side

 

I sometimes think that a good way to make money would be to buy a can of yellow spray paint. It seems that spraying anything bright yellow in the marine market instantly trebles its value cost.

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I sometimes think that a good way to make money would be to buy a can of yellow spray paint. It seems that spraying anything bright yellow in the marine market instantly trebles its value cost.

To be fair though, it is a nice shade of yellow :)

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Most of the problems I have had with my 1987 Vetus M3.10 have been due to poor connections in the 'Amp' terminal blocks between the engine and the panel. As well as the standard cable my boat has an extension cable; so, there are four connecting blocks between the engine and the panel. Some of the signals have to traverse these long, inadequate cables and connectors twice.

 

My old panel does not have a voltmeter, only a tachometer and 'Pre-heat', 'Start', and 'Stop' buttons. Typically, the tach would drop to zero because the 'run' relay had dropped out. This also resulted in the battery not being charged. Momentary operation of the 'Pre-heat' or 'Start' button would re-activate the 'run' relay. Diesel engines do not require any voltage supply to continue to run and my Vetus 'stop solenoid' operates only when a voltage is applied.

 

This old Vetus panel has no digital electronics; it uses diodes and relays. Corrosion of the relay and cable sockets and inadequate cable size account for most of the problems.

 

My starter motor solenoid failed (burnt contacts, not repairable) due to the large voltage drop through the inadequate cables and connectors. After overhauling the connectors I still had <6V at the starter solenoid. I have mounted a relay close to the starter motor to provide near to the full battery voltage.

 

Basically, I am saying "do not assume that the voltmeter is simply and directly connected to the battery"! After all, it does not read the voltage when the engine is stopped or when the Vetus logic thinks(?) the engine is stopped.

 

The buzzer (failed on my old Vetus panel) is a standard item available from Maplin for <£3. If it sometimes works, it is likely that you have the faults described above. Mine failed (after ten years) because my Vetus Panel is not adequately protected from moisture. i.e. It is mounted in a sealed wooden box but otherwise unprotected.

 

Given a little encouragement I may be able to dig out diagrams for the Vetus Panel and my Starter mod.

 

HTH, Alan

The glossy yellow colour is brilliant until chunks fall into the bilge.

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