How do we insulate these bits?

[charliemcsnarly]

 

As you can see we have fixed our double bed in the extended bow of the boat. These are the last, and curviest parts to insulate and I just can't figure the best way to do so. It would be nice to keep as much as the space as possible for bedside shelves etc.

 

Underneath is bed slats is also metal, and we have given it a couple of coats of thermilate which has helped with the condensation, yet not cured it.

 

Thanks for any ideas!

[Gibbo]

Is that a Boss BR-8?

[charliemcsnarly]

well spotted

[koukouvagia]

Your setup looks very similar to what I did. You don't have welded tags to fix battens to, but you'd probably be fine using gripfix type adhesive. Make sure you put a vapour barrier between the insulation and the panel.

 

 

[charliemcsnarly]

Your setup looks very similar to what I did. You don't have welded tags to fix battens to, but you'd probably be fine using gripfix type adhesive. Make sure you put a vapour barrier between the insulation and the panel.

 

That looks awesome, nice job! Will definetely take ideas from that.

 

Can I just ask about the vapour barrier? Does there need to be a gap between the metal and the insulating material, hence should the insulating material be stuck to the back of the wood?

[koukouvagia]

That looks awesome, nice job! Will definetely take ideas from that.

 

Can I just ask about the vapour barrier? Does there need to be a gap between the metal and the insulating material, hence should the insulating material be stuck to the back of the wood?

 

 

 

Here you can see the three layers: insulation, vapour barrier and t&g paneling. The insulation is pushed up hard against the hull. If you make the insulation slightly oversize it is designed to stay put between the battens by friction. If there is any gap (which is sometimes inevitable because the rounded contour of the hull and the straight sides of the panels) it should be between the barrier and the insulation, not between the insulation and the hull. I simply stapled the builders' plastic sheeting to the battens.

Edited January 10, 2011 by koukouvagia

[stuart]

You only really need the vapour barrier if your using a non-sheet insulation material - like rockwool.

 

If you are, then the foil stuck to the sheets acts as a barrier.

 

You will probably find that sheets of PU foam insulation will bend to the curve of the boat quite easily, and then any gaps covered with expanding foam.

[koukouvagia]

 

You will probably find that sheets of PU foam insulation will bend to the curve of the boat quite easily, and then any gaps covered with expanding foam.

 

I don't want to resurrect the “what kind of insulation should I use?” thread – it's horses for courses, but one of the advantages of using rockwool type insulation is that it is easy to stuff into all those nooks and crannies. Also if you use PU foam sheets on curved surfaces, like a double curvature josher bow, it may well be flexible but how do you stop it springing away from the hull?

By the way, I don't use rockwool – it's far too floppy to stay in place – rather the slab insulation sheets.

[charliemcsnarly]

Perfect, thanks a lot. Is it the slab insulation sheets you've used there? I presume they bend nicely around the curves and stay in place if slightly oversized as you mentioned?

[koukouvagia]

Perfect, thanks a lot. Is it the slab insulation sheets you've used there? I presume they bend nicely around the curves and stay in place if slightly oversized as you mentioned?

 

Yep - Wickes' finest. They've been in place on the motor for over ten years and are bone dry and as good as the day I fitted them.

 

Best of luck with the insulation.

[charliemcsnarly]

brilliant, thanks for all your help

[stuart]

if you use PU foam sheets on curved surfaces, like a double curvature josher bow, it may well be flexible but how do you stop it springing away from the hull?

 

Glue it in place, against the steel, prevents moisture building up between insulation and steel then.

 

Have a look at...

 

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+Sealants/Expanding+Foam/Dry+Wall+Foam+Fix+750ml/d180/sd2857/p60449

 

 

If its a really tight bend, you can always slit the board and bend it, or cover in multiple sections and seal the gaps with expanding foam.