Varnishing paint

[leolady too]

Last year we did the roof. This year it's the cabin sides. We learnt an enormous amount doing the roof and ended up with a reasonable job. I am hoping the cabin sides, with the benefit of last years experience, will end up looking reasonable too. So, if it all looks OK, what do folk think about varnishing the paintwork? Will it prolong the life and finish of the paint and is it worth the effort?

 

Has anyone done it and what were the results?

 

How do you do it, does new paintwork need to be left a month or two or six and need it be flatted off (a horrible thought if I've taken hours of care to get it nive and shiney) to key the varnish. Any thoughts on which varnish?

[David Schweizer]

Last year we did the roof. This year it's the cabin sides. We learnt an enormous amount doing the roof and ended up with a reasonable job. I am hoping the cabin sides, with the benefit of last years experience, will end up looking reasonable too. So, if it all looks OK, what do folk think about varnishing the paintwork? Will it prolong the life and finish of the paint and is it worth the effort?

 

Has anyone done it and what were the results?

 

How do you do it, does new paintwork need to be left a month or two or six and need it be flatted off (a horrible thought if I've taken hours of care to get it nive and shiney) to key the varnish. Any thoughts on which varnish?

I do not know how long paint should be left before varishing, but I have just varnished the back panels on our boat after more than ten years since they were painted. I used Craftmaster Clear Varnish which is produced for this purpose and the transformation has been better than I expected. all the colours have been revived and it is nice and shiney again.

 

Before commencing the job, I sought Phil Speight's advice, and he recommended using ultra fine Scotchbrite pads to key the surface for varnishing, this is far less agressive than even the finest wet and dry paper, and a lot cheaper also.

Edited July 26, 2010 by David Schweizer

[ChrisPy]

does anyone have any suggestions for long-lasting wax polish to protect the paint from the ravages of the weather?

there are many expensive systems on the market which I suppose are designed for GRP but the sales blurb says are also suitable for painted steel.

[WotEver]

does anyone have any suggestions for long-lasting wax polish to protect the paint from the ravages of the weather?

I use Craftmaster Carnuba Wax polish. Phylis tells us that it's "exactly the same as" the stuff she gets from Bloggs' Car Refinishers at a quarter the price. I remain unconvinced and therefore continue to use Carfmaster Carnuba Wax.

 

Tony

[David Schweizer]

I use Craftmaster Carnuba Wax polish. Phylis tells us that it's "exactly the same as" the stuff she gets from Bloggs' Car Refinishers at a quarter the price. I remain unconvinced and therefore continue to use Carfmaster Carnuba Wax.

 

Tony

Phylis may well be correct (God, did I actually say that?) As Craftmaster do not make any of their products themselves, it must be the same as someone elses wax. Carnuba Wax has long been available to Cabinet makers and classic car enthusiasts of which Phil is one, and is readily available from many motor factors.

 

Phylis may have come across a local supplier of the same, or very similar, product marketed under another name.

[WotEver]

Phylis may have come across a local supplier of the same, or very similar, product marketed under another name.

She may well have done. However in the thread where this cropped up Phylis couldn't prove it was the same, and Phil couldn't prove that it wasn't so in the vacuum so created I bought another bottle of Craftmaster polish

 

Tony

[Radio-Ga-Ga]

A lot of people will spend hours waxing or polishing the boat only to undo their good work by using a strong detergent like washing up liquid when it gets dirty, better to use just clean water or a good wash & wax.

[Radio-Ga-Ga]

Last year we did the roof. This year it's the cabin sides. We learnt an enormous amount doing the roof and ended up with a reasonable job. I am hoping the cabin sides, with the benefit of last years experience,

The biggest difference is the possibility of runs or sags, in my experience better to thin the paint (with the makers own thinner and up the the recomended ammount) and apply less, even though it might need an extra coat. Its a good plan when you undercoat the boat to undercoat something else, a drum or large can, and use that to test how much top coat can be applied, leave it till its touch dry before deciding its not going to run. As said before, considerable car finishing experience, but only DIY experience with synthetic paint on boats. so note any other members different experience.

[larkshall]

thinking about it all modern car paint jobs are finished off with laquer.

 

As for washing paint, I tend to use Karcher's cleaner. I doubt the amount used (about 40 ml per 8litre bucket), would cause any concern in the canal.

[bag 'o' bones]

thinking about it all modern car paint jobs are finished off with laquer.

 

I would say all mettalic finishes are 'clear over base' these days. Solid colour painted cars are still supplied without laquer although what with mettalic finishes becoming almost standard these days, solid finished cars are becoming less common.

[Grace and Favour]

I've used a two pack PTFE coating from these peeps. as a protective dressing on my paint

 

It's too early to say whether it'll live up to all it's claims - but its been a few months since I put it on my car - and it still looks great

[Radio-Ga-Ga]

I would say all mettalic finishes are 'clear over base' these days. Solid colour painted cars are still supplied without laquer although what with mettalic finishes becoming almost standard these days, solid finished cars are becoming less common.

Even most solid colours are base and clear these days, but the base is flat and laquer applied in the right time frame. It can't be compared to the bond of varnish on gloss paint.

[WotEver]

I've used a two pack PTFE coating from these peeps. as a protective dressing on my paint

 

It's too early to say whether it'll live up to all it's claims - but its been a few months since I put it on my car - and it still looks great

How difficult was it to apply to your car? I'm thinking specifically the pre-treatment - was that an awful lot of hard graft?

 

Just that if it's hard on a car, and I was considering it on a 4 year old paint job on my boat with the amount of grime that's built up... well, you get the idea...

 

Tony

[Phil Speight]

Phylis may well be correct (God, did I actually say that?) As Craftmaster do not make any of their products themselves, it must be the same as someone elses wax. Carnuba Wax has long been available to Cabinet makers and classic car enthusiasts of which Phil is one, and is readily available from many motor factors.

 

Phylis may have come across a local supplier of the same, or very similar, product marketed under another name.

You are quite right. Our polish is available in the classic car market and that is where I found it. I`m delighted to say however that they charge almost TWICE the price for it in that market than Craftmaster does in ours. Pick the bones out of that me dears !

[Phil Speight]

Phylis may well be correct (God, did I actually say that?) As Craftmaster do not make any of their products themselves, it must be the same as someone elses wax. Carnuba Wax has long been available to Cabinet makers and classic car enthusiasts of which Phil is one, and is readily available from many motor factors.

 

Phylis may have come across a local supplier of the same, or very similar, product marketed under another name.

You are quite right. Our polish is available in the classic car market and that is where I found it. I`m delighted to say however that they charge almost TWICE the price for it in that market than Craftmaster does in ours. Pick the bones out of that me dears !

 

She may well have done. However in the thread where this cropped up Phylis couldn't prove it was the same, and Phil couldn't prove that it wasn't so in the vacuum so created I bought another bottle of Craftmaster polish

 

Tony

Clearly I can`t prove it isn`t without telling everybody who makes it for us - and I aren`t going to do that because I got quite pissd off in the past when other companies made up whole product ranges by doing their best to copy ours. And no, I aren`t prepared to do what is necessary to prove THAT either!

 

 

A lot of people will spend hours waxing or polishing the boat only to undo their good work by using a strong detergent like washing up liquid when it gets dirty, better to use just clean water or a good wash & wax.

We agree completely. Isn`t that nice !

Cheers

Phil

[Grace and Favour]

How difficult was it to apply to your car? I'm thinking specifically the pre-treatment - was that an awful lot of hard graft?

 

Just that if it's hard on a car, and I was considering it on a 4 year old paint job on my boat with the amount of grime that's built up... well, you get the idea...

 

Tony

 

I have to say that it's quite easy . .

 

Wash the car (thoroughly and well - )

 

Apply the 1st liquid (a very thin coat indeed - it has the consistency of a thin cream)

Buff

Apply the second liquid (also like a thin cream)

Buff.

 

Job done.

 

 

The car / boat will still get dirty with our weather, of course - but I now just wash them with water and the tiniest drop of eco-cleaner (to act as a wetting agent) - no problems

[WotEver]

The car / boat will still get dirty with our weather, of course - but I now just wash them with water and the tiniest drop of eco-cleaner (to act as a wetting agent) - no problems

Yeah, I know the result - I had my car done that way when I bought it 4 years ago and all it needs is a wash to look like new again (apart from the scuffs :::cough::: ).

 

If it's that easy I might give it a go - thanks

 

Tony

Edited July 27, 2010 by WotEver