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Porthole woodtrims


JonA

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Does anyone know a manufacturer for the solid wood inner porthole trims. I found some wood effect plastic ones at a chandlery but they looked pretty grotty.

 

Thanks,

Jon

Midland chandlers sell them, but they are quite expensive. A little while ago someone on this site was offering to make themm, if you do a search under "Porthole liners" you should find them.

Edited by David Schweizer
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Midland chandlers sell them, but they are quite expensive. A little while ago someone on this site was offering to make themm, if you do a search under "Porthole liners" you should find them.

I expect you'll find Richard Bustens will do anything for a fiver .............. :wacko:

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I expect you'll find Richard Bustens will do anything for a fiver .............. :wacko:

 

 

For that tiny minority of you that are not immediately seized with horror at the thought of having something that is home made or even worse, 'painted' inside your boat your can make them yourself. Mine look as good as any I have seen, they cost about £5 each. Let me know if you are interested. And you don't need a lathe.

Edited by John Orentas
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Richard's offer is too good to be true. My solid oak liners were £70 for 15" and £63 for 12". They are made up of 4 quadrants and are very delicate until they are in place. Held together with a bit of glue and small biscuits.

 

Crumbs!!!!!!!!

 

 

I've already left :wacko:

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Crumbs!!!!!!!!

:wacko:

 

"Biscuit Joint"

A butt joint that is reinforced with a rugbyball shaped "biscuits". The biscuits are made from compressed pieces of wood, usually birch. When a biscuit comes into contact with glue in the joint it swells creating a tight joint.

 

Or you could just epoxy it and it wouldnt be going anywhere!

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For that tiny minority of you that are not immediately seized with horror at the thought of having something that is home made or even worse, 'painted' inside your boat your can make them yourself. Mine look as good as any I have seen, they cost about £5 each. Let me know if you are interested. And you don't need a lathe.

I would be interested John. I have played around a bit with several ideas which usually involves a router, but have not really satisfied myself that any of my ideas would actually work. I know exactly how to do it on a lathe, but do not currently have access to one large enough.

Edited by David Schweizer
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I would be interested John. I have played around a bit with several ideas which usually involves a router, but have not really satisfied myself that any of my ideas would actually work. I know exactly how to do it on a lathe, but do not currently have access to one large enough.

 

 

 

Hi David.

 

The following is how I did it, obviously the design is open to any number of variations. Assuming 12 inch dia cut out in cabin lining.

 

The finished job comprises a 1/2" thick x 13" plywood square with a 10" dia hole, a fixing screw in each corner with those plastic screw caps (sounds naff but looks effective). A cylinder of polished brass sheet typ. 2" high fixed to the inside face.

 

Cut a square 0.5 inch ply 3-4 inch larger than the cut diameter. Cut the aperture typ. 0.75 smaller than the clear glass size with jig-saw. 0.25 chamfer on the outer sides, drill 4 fixing holes 5mm for No 8 screws.

 

Measure glass to outer cabin lining face = Y. Fabricate a cylinder, brass sheet or other height Y + 0.1. with diameter a little smaller than clear glass dia. Using angle brackets fix cylinder to inside face of square.

 

I used copper rivets to join cylinder and brackets (join at the top).

A flapper wheel is best for finishing inside of hole.

Paint ply. a primary colour.

 

I will try to gat some pickies.

Edited by John Orentas
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Hi All

 

First post here.

 

I made our porthole liners in 6 sections using a router (with a homemade jig set up so the router describes a circle) and a mates band saw, lots of work but very satisfying. I cut out most of the wood with the band saw and then finished off with the router. They are rediculously heavy duty, nearly 4" deep and when the plywood facing is put up there is another circle made up of 6 sections of iroko to frame the liner (so I dont have to be too carefull cutting out the ply!)

 

Matt

 

Galley-porthole-detail.jpg

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Hi All

 

First post here.

 

I made our porthole liners in 6 sections using a router (with a homemade jig set up so the router describes a circle) and a mates band saw, lots of work but very satisfying. I cut out most of the wood with the band saw and then finished off with the router. They are rediculously heavy duty, nearly 4" deep and when the plywood facing is put up there is another circle made up of 6 sections of iroko to frame the liner (so I dont have to be too carefull cutting out the ply!)

 

Matt

 

now THAT is what I would call a porthole!!

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Hi David.

 

The following is how I did it, obviously the design is open to any number of variations. Assuming 12 inch dia cut out in cabin lining.

 

The finished job comprises a 1/2" thick x 13" plywood square with a 10" dia hole, a fixing screw in each corner with those plastic screw caps (sounds naff but looks effective). A cylinder of polished brass sheet typ. 2" high fixed to the inside face.

 

Cut a square 0.5 inch ply 3-4 inch larger than the cut diameter. Cut the aperture typ. 0.75 smaller than the clear glass size with jig-saw. 0.25 chamfer on the outer sides, drill 4 fixing holes 5mm for No 8 screws.

 

Measure glass to outer cabin lining face = Y. Fabricate a cylinder, brass sheet or other height Y + 0.1. with diameter a little smaller than clear glass dia. Using angle brackets fix cylinder to inside face of square.

 

I used copper rivets to join cylinder and brackets (join at the top).

A flapper wheel is best for finishing inside of hole.

Paint ply. a primary colour.

 

 

I will try to gat some pickies.

 

Thanks John.

 

I hadn't considered making the ring from brass, but it is worth a try. We have a very good brass stockist in Bath so there will not be a problem getting some of the correct dimensions. I also have some nice sheets of 3/8" solid mahogany which would be an attractive substitute for the ply.

 

Unfortunately I went to the boat today, and have just got back, so I will have to wait a couple of weeks before I can get the measurements.

Edited by David Schweizer
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  • 1 month later...

for the highest quality porthole trims with the back ring made one length of timber bent round a former into shape giving a much stronger stucture and eliminating all engrain and unsightly joints.With this design you are able leave the thickness of the back ring at a tiny 6mm making installation a damn sight easier and manufacturing a damn sight more economical.With the traditional quadrant versions your guaranteed a breakage due to large amounts of engrain,and if you purchase a lathed version you can bet your bottom dollar it will be shaped like a pringle before long, thats why i think my portholes are the future.

 

For more info on prices and designs please contact JH Joinery on 01785 607053 or

07963780292

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  • 7 months later...

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