parasal Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I am confused...I know I`m only a girl but my Kelvin J2 dont look like what it says in the book and on photos of others!! I seem to be lacking an oil pump and therefore any way of removing oil from the sump! I admit that the side normally facing the front (with the spark plugs/injectors on) will vary according to starting method, but there I seem not be able to locate a governor! I am trying so hard to understand and care for my engine but this has got me perplexed and I`m sure one of you out there has a simple solution! Cheers Sal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB Alnwick Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I am confused...I know I`m only a girl but my Kelvin J2 dont look like what it says in the book and on photos of others!! I seem to be lacking an oil pump and therefore any way of removing oil from the sump! I admit that the side normally facing the front (with the spark plugs/injectors on) will vary according to starting method, but there I seem not be able to locate a governor! I am trying so hard to understand and care for my engine but this has got me perplexed and I`m sure one of you out there has a simple solution! Cheers Sal A lot depends on what the engine was originally built for - have you located the water pump? I have sent you a PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parasal Posted December 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 A lot depends on what the engine was originally built for - have you located the water pump?I have sent you a PM. Yeh..thats the leaky thing on the right front as you look at it....It has been re-packed but needs tightening with finger tool! Have replied to PM..ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB Alnwick Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Yeh..thats the leaky thing on the right front as you look at it....It has been re-packed but needs tightening with finger tool! Have replied to PM..ta Also replied by PM - don't worry about leaky water pump - as long as its not too bad, it is supposed to leak a bit to lubricate the shaft. If you overtighten the gland it will wear the reciprocating shaft which is only made of brass or gunmetal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parasal Posted December 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Yeh...I was told not to worry about the water pump...thats just wat they do! Thanx for your PM...planning on servicing her next week so wish me luck! Cheers Sally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave moore Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Hi Parasal I have a J3 in Resolute, an engine I love to bits. Kelvins don't normally have a pump to aid oil removal, every 300 hours or so I remove a side plate, usually the rear one on the port side of the engine and suck out the old oil firstly with an old brass garden spray and finish off with rags inside the crankcase. Mine has a circular gauze strainer which I unbolt, remove and wash out, replacing it before I refill with fresh oil (Morris SAE 30 is my preferred). Usually on starting after the change it takes a while for oil to drip from the test cock. This worried me at first, now I'm not concerned. Kelvins fitted more than one type of governor...you will have one, promise! They and the injector pump sit on a horizontal platform, the pump stool, which bolts to the crank case on the starboard side, below the copper water cooling pipework. We no longer start on petrol, having fitted a thermostart conversion, but when we did I was advised by one of the Gardener family (you know, those other engines!!) to use real 4 star petrol rather than unleaded. The engines were designed to run on such stuff, obvious when you think about it! Valve clearances aren't hard to do and apart from specialist stuff like servicing injectors and the pump, they're an easy motor to work on. I have the numbers of a reliable 100% gen expert - PM me if you need his number or for my phone no. if you want to talk about them. Lovely engines - tho' like all of us oldies, they have their foibles, temperaments - and occasional leaks!!! Hope this helps - don't hesitatte to get in touch Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albion Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 (edited) Hi ParasalI have a J3 in Resolute, an engine I love to bits. Kelvins don't normally have a pump to aid oil removal, every 300 hours or so I remove a side plate, usually the rear one on the port side of the engine and suck out the old oil firstly with an old brass garden spray and finish off with rags inside the crankcase. Mine has a circular gauze strainer which I unbolt, remove and wash out, replacing it before I refill with fresh oil (Morris SAE 30 is my preferred). Usually on starting after the change it takes a while for oil to drip from the test cock. This worried me at first, now I'm not concerned. Kelvins fitted more than one type of governor...you will have one, promise! They and the injector pump sit on a horizontal platform, the pump stool, which bolts to the crank case on the starboard side, below the copper water cooling pipework. We no longer start on petrol, having fitted a thermostart conversion, but when we did I was advised by one of the Gardener family (you know, those other engines!!) to use real 4 star petrol rather than unleaded. The engines were designed to run on such stuff, obvious when you think about it! Valve clearances aren't hard to do and apart from specialist stuff like servicing injectors and the pump, they're an easy motor to work on. I have the numbers of a reliable 100% gen expert - PM me if you need his number or for my phone no. if you want to talk about them. Lovely engines - tho' like all of us oldies, they have their foibles, temperaments - and occasional leaks!!! Hope this helps - don't hesitatte to get in touch Cheers Dave Hi Dave, I think you'll find those other engines, you know...the superb ones..... are called Gardners (as opposed to those that tend the garden). Still, never mind, you got the boat builder right for Resolute Roger Edited December 11, 2009 by Albion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave moore Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Roger Gotcha!! I thought you may be lurking around! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parasal Posted December 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Thats why I love this website-what a wealth of knowledge! Thanx guys! Not sure how many hours she has done since last service so thought I would start with oil which can always help with being changed, then move on to filters-my gennt has just been serviced and mucky deisel was blocking filter so I guess would filter down to engine also?? Will let you know how I go-wish there was Kelvin nightschool, but guess this is where I am now! Cheers Sally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greybeard Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I love the sound and look of these engines but don't have the patience and time they can require to keep them in good order - especially when you read this:- If it ever becomes merely improbable that a narrowboat engine should work, it instantly stops. The exception to this is the traditional Kelvin engine, which even when in perfect restored order with every part highly polished, is so inherently improbable that it continues to work despite being maintained with obsessive care. Kelvin engine ownership is widely recognised in substance abuse research as the most addictive and destructive addiction of all, worse even than an addiction to crack cocaine, tobacco, or My Little Pony. For a description of an addiction to Kelvin engines see here:- http://www.sky-net.org.uk/kelvin/articles/monster/index.html GB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjasmith Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I love the sound and look of these engines but don't have the patience and time they can require to keep them in good order - especially when you read this:- QUOTE If it ever becomes merely improbable that a narrowboat engine should work, it instantly stops. The exception to this is the traditional Kelvin engine, which even when in perfect restored order with every part highly polished, is so inherently improbable that it continues to work despite being maintained with obsessive care. Kelvin engine ownership is widely recognised in substance abuse research as the most addictive and destructive addiction of all, worse even than an addiction to crack cocaine, tobacco, or My Little Pony. For a description of an addiction to Kelvin engines see here:- http://www.sky-net.org.uk/kelvin/articles/monster/index.html GB Isn't that a quote from the entry for "narrowboat" in Uncyclopedia here? Later in the entry it covers typical narrowboat propulsion systems including Kelvins as one form of inherent improbability drive for narrowboats. Bit of amusement even for fully converted Kelvin nuts like me - and presumably now you parasal - welcome to Kelvins! I must admit I thought all of them had a crankcase hand pump for emptying the oil - certainly my K2 has and the drawings/handbooks (see the link to Mike Skyner's splendid website above) show/refer to it as if it was always fitted. Perhaps some engines have lost them over the years and the holes blanked off with a plate? Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEngo Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Hi ParasalI have a J3 in Resolute, an engine I love to bits. Kelvins don't normally have a pump to aid oil removal, every 300 hours or so I remove a side plate, usually the rear one on the port side of the engine and suck out the old oil firstly with an old brass garden spray and finish off with rags inside the crankcase. Mine has a circular gauze strainer which I unbolt, remove and wash out, replacing it before I refill with fresh oil (Morris SAE 30 is my preferred). Usually on starting after the change it takes a while for oil to drip from the test cock. This worried me at first, now I'm not concerned. Cheers Dave The trick here, and after leaving the engine standing for a while, is to squirt a few shots of oil INTO the oil drip cock. This ensures the pump is full. and will get the gallery pipe to the bearings full so that they get lubricated quickly. How many a few is depends on the size of your oil can. I too think all J's came new with a sump pump at the rear left corner, but they are mainly good for getting oil in the bilge and need a bit of a knack to use so I suspect a few have been removed or were damaged when the engine was removed. If yopu haven't got one remove a convenient crankcase door and bale or suck it out. If the OP is doing an annual service then the oil filter is the item Dave describes and the fuel filter- should be on the stbd side below the pump stool, but could be any where- will need changing. N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parasal Posted December 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 No sorry give up.....OP?? As previously mentioned, fuel is my next port of call and changing the two filters-dont worry-I can find them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timleech Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 No sorry give up.....OP?? YOU are the OP. Wear the badge with pride (Original Post(er) ) Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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