Boat Pole

[NB Willawaw]

Somebody has taken a shine to my boat pole and I've just noticed its vanished off the roof. I've had it on there for about 2 years, rarely use it and now its gone.

 

The thing is, I obviously need to replace it, but what exactly is it ?

 

In essence, its just a long, cylindrical, wooden pole, but where do you get them from ?

 

It seems a bit much to buy one from a chandler at exorbitant cost just for a stick, but what spec should you use if you go to a timber merchants ?

 

Has anybody bought one recently ?

[Alastair]

Any stick will do, make sure the grain is parallel to the length of the stick. The ones in chandlers are usually ash.

[John Orentas]

Any timber yard or possibly B&Q. Two inch diameter handrail, there is usually a planed 'flat' along it's length. Ten or twelve feet should be ample these days. They are 'softwood' but strong enough as long as you don't 'lever' with it.

 

As an added refinement try to acquire self-adhesive closed end heat shrink sleeves. They are made for sealing the unused ends of heavy electrical cable, stops the end splitting and absorbing water, paint the pole first.

[Yamanx]

Like John has said, handrail. This is what I use.

[Richard Bustens]

After getting that thing of mine stuck last week I'm going to get a scaffolding pole as well

[ChrisPy]

After getting that thing of mine stuck last week I'm going to get a scaffolding pole as well

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

exactly what 'thing of yours' did you get stuck, Richard, and how?

[Richard Bustens]

BOAT stuck on rocks coming out of locks , the by wash was so fierce it pushed me onto the right side and it stuck solid had to flush 3 locks of water through then when we pulled it off to the left bank it stuck on a rock. then going through the next lock i got blasted onto the right again... bottom two locks at tryal..

 

Everyone was having problems but with my lack of experience and the sheer weight of the boat i could not keep it off

[John Orentas]

SAFETY WHEN USING THE POLE.

 

I know it may be something of a cliché but you must insist that your crew uses the boat pole in the correct manner.

 

I still see people (often children) pushing on the pole with it's end directly into the midriff, if things were to go wrong it could cause major internal injuries or even worse.

Edited May 9, 2005 by John Orentas

[DHutch]

We have a alumium tube, it was spec'ed my by grandads boating partner. its 50mm OD, and about 12ft long (not sure of the wall thickess), with wooden end peices.

- Its the best pole ive seen, its light enought that i could hold it horizonal right from the end even, and yet two people can push full onto it when we bottom out again.

- We also have the std 6ft ash pole with pointed end, with hook that can be used for fishing things out of the cut etc.

 

 

Daniel

[John Orentas]

Have you ever noticed that all hire boats seem to be equipped with one of those savage looking weapons, a 2 mtr. pole with a sharpened hook and vicious steel spike. Presumably for fending off other boats, does wonders for your paintwork.

Edited May 9, 2005 by John Orentas

[Guest st170dw]

Everyone was having problems but with my lack of experience and the sheer weight of the boat i could not keep it off

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Indeed we were - I was teaching my wife to handle the boat into locks and when she saw the torrents coming out of the bywashes on the way up the Tyrley flight she decided to pass!

 

I hit hard trying to get into one of the locks and I couldn't think of a way of avoiding doing so without a bow-thruster. Mine is a lighter boat so it moved very fast sideways.

[Khayamanzi]

I hit hard trying to get into one of the locks and I couldn't think of a way of avoiding doing so without a bow-thruster. Mine is a lighter boat so it moved very fast sideways.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Ah Ah!! A prime example of the use for a bow-thruster - take note all you luddites!!

[Richard Bustens]

As you Know i have a bow thruster, but by the time i got there the batteries were getting a bit low, but it had no effect on those washes. i am drawing 2'9'' and the pressure of the water on those two locks just pushed the boat over and i could do nothing.

I think i have learned how to do it now and can now come out of the lock at a bit of a angle, unlike smaller boats i can not accelerate out of the lock have to take my time to build up speed.

[Guest st170dw]

As you Know i have a bow thruster, but by the time i got there the batteries were getting a bit low, but it had no effect on those washes. i am drawing 2'9'' and the pressure of the water on those two locks just pushed the boat over and i could do nothing.

I think i have learned how to do it now and can now come out of the lock at a bit of a angle, unlike smaller boats i can not accelerate out of the lock have to take my time to build up speed.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

On the way down I had no problem because I followed the tactic you outline above. Going up however you are aiming at a small gap and having to proceed at a low speed.

[Guest st170dw]

Ah Ah!! A prime example of the use for a bow-thruster - take note all you luddites!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

There must be a way to do it because I don't recall the working boats having bow-thrusters. Have BW perhaps redesigned the locks since on the basis that all boats now have them

[Alastair]

I've never had a bow thruster, when in confined spaces and short-handed, I usually manouver with barge pole and ropes.

 

My pole does have the 'lethal' metal hook, sharp-pointed. It is very, very good thing when pushing on wood - you can dig it in, get a good grip. This is important - if it slips off when you are pushin - erm, you'll be swimming! The other end of the pole has a rubber stopper for fending off boats etc.

[dor]

What you need is several trips up the Llangollen to get some practice at dealing with bywashes!

 

The trick is to steer the front well into the side wash, so the bow gets pushed into line, then push the tiller right over the other way to stop the stern getting pushed across. What you mustn't do is try to di it slowly. You need plenty of power.

 

Once you get the knack it is quite easy - and very satisfying to get into a narrow lock across a strong side wash without touching the sides.

 

 

The one at Audlem, under the road bridge, can be particularly tricky though as the side wash comes out under the bridge and you have no room to manoever.

[Amicus]

Re. This side-wash malarkey, do the strength of these vary with the amount of rain.

 

 

edit; and the amount of boat traffic?

Edited May 10, 2005 by Amicus

[dor]

The Llangollen ones certainly increase if there has been a lot of rain upstream, but then that is what the canal is for - bringing the water down. I don't find it makes as much difference on the Shroppie main line, as there are plenty of places where there are overspills to control the level.

 

Usage does affect them; some will almost stop, then a boat emties the lock above and a flood comes down.

 

All adds to the excitement when you are moving gently towards the lock and someone turns the tap on.

[DHutch]

As dor said, the llangollen is used to move water down the hurleston (where we get our water from) hence there is a lot more water coming down, although theres less during the day becuase they really let it flow over night, which is great if you can get into the side, becuase nexe morning you find yourself on a 5 degree list hard on the mud!

 

 

Daniel

[Golden Duck]

John,

 

We saw this post and as we needed an extra pole, we followed your recommendation.

We managed to get a 10ft 2" round pole with one edge planed flat so it doesn't roll around from the local timber yard for 66p/ft.

We have painted it in a very fetching dark green to match the boats topside finish.

As a little embellishment, we painted red tips either end approx 2ft long to mark out the boats draft so that we can also use the pole to test the depth when exploring moorings and inlets.

 

Thanks for the idea.

 

Best Regards

 

Barry

 

Any timber yard or possibly B&Q.  Two inch diameter handrail, there is usually a planed 'flat' along it's length.  Ten or twelve feet should be ample these days. They are 'softwood' but strong enough as long as you don't 'lever' with it.

 

As an added refinement try to acquire self-adhesive closed end heat shrink sleeves.  They are made for sealing the unused ends of heavy electrical cable, stops the end splitting and absorbing water, paint the pole first.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[DHutch]

We painted red tips either end approx 2ft long to mark out the boats draft so that we can also use the pole to test the depth when exploring moorings and inlets.

 

Now that is a good idea.

 

- Might have to borrow that one!

 

 

Daniel

[Guest st170dw]

to avoid the pole obstructing the handrails I put the plank outboard of the pole at least 6" from the handrail - pole can't roll and handrail uncluttered.