Blacking pickle

[ThePiglet]

Hi,

 

I've bought an unfinished project from someone that bought it as an unfinished project of someone who shotblasted and repainted it.

That last blacking/shotblast was over 5 years ago and the boat has not been in the water since it was done.

 

I have decided that prior to making wet, I need to reblack my bottom (Springer 27ft with V hull) and simply can not afford to shotblast it.

What do I do?

 

The current blacking appears OKish, one side has been in the sun for years and it's gone a bit sparkly, the other side is normal.

I was thinking of giving it a good rubbing down with a wire brush and rolling on a couple of coats of bitumen. Is this a good idea?

This is my first time blacking a narrowboat, is it acceptable to use warmed bitumen, like the roofing stuff? I understand coal-tar is a no-no, right?

[denboy]

all you need to do is slap a couple of coats of bitcho on it wire brushing/rubbing it down wont do anything except clog your paper and brushes up johnsons paints bitumen paint is around £9/10 a gallon2 gallon should just about do it use a big roller its easier nice and thick but no runs

[blackrose]

You could go around it with an angle grinder or drill with a wire wheel attachment just to get any loose stuff off (wear goggles). At the very least I'd pressure wash it and allow it to dry before slapping on the new blacking. There's no need to warm the blacking - but buy the proper stuff - a basic boat blacking for steel. I can't see the point of using roof bitumen - how much money will you save?

Edited March 24, 2008 by blackrose

[Dylan]

You could go around it with an angle grinder or drill with a wire wheel attachment just to get any loose stuff off (wear goggles). At the very least I'd pressure wash it and allow it to dry before slapping on the new blacking. There's no need to warm the blacking - but buy the proper stuff - a basic boat blacking for steel. I can't see the point of using roof bitumen - how much money will you save?

I agree that you should pressure wash it. Any loose blacking will part company from the hull instantly when the pressure hits it. I always use 3 coats of "Rytex" blacking personally, which lasts two years or more.

[ThePiglet]

I always use 3 coats of "Rytex" blacking personally, which lasts two years or more.

That's fine. I don't mind paying a bit more for the blacking then the basics. Rytex looks to cost between £50 and £60 for 10 litres, is that about right?

I already have a pressure washer so can do that no problems too.

Thanks for all the tips.

[Chris Pink]

To check whether it is indeed a bitumen based paint wipe a bit with some white spirit if it comes away black then it is bitumen, if not could be a coal tar varnish or (unlikely) epoxy. You will need to overcoat like with like.

[DHutch]

Yeah, your main issued maybe insuring compatabilty.

- But in terms of preperation all we have done in the last 18years is presure wash, quick scrap around, and recoat over the top. Every four years or so. Thats from being in the water, and your boat will be be far better than that already i would suggest.

 

 

As the others say, if you have a presure washer to hand, that will do no harm, maybe a bit of a scrape/scratch around if there are loose bits. but then just blacking on time.

 

We now use pitch-free vinal underwater primer from Leighs Paints having used the epoxy before that. But as said, it all depends whats on there now. You can always try a small area.

 

 

 

Daniel

[ThePiglet]

Thanks to your help I've just completed 4 coats over 2 days from 17litres of bitumen. I pressure washed it first, then went around the whole lot with a spinny wire disc in my drill to scuff up the existing layer.

 

My god has it made a difference to the look of it, the thing might just float!

 

Now to organise some lifting and moving...

 

Oh, and my hair smells rather odd now. I get the feeling Swafega wasn't intended to be used as a shampoo

Edited April 5, 2008 by ThePiglet