Is there much of a difference between LPWS and LPW Lister Engine

[SiFi]

Ok I removed water pump, injector plumbing, manifolds, exhaust, covers, rockers and push rods but did not have an extra deep socket for the head studs and have had to order one.  The stud nuts are too tight for my spanner.  

 

To my untrained eye the rockers look pristine and the push rods roll evenly so I'm hoping they are good.  

[Peugeot 106]

29 minutes ago, SiFi said:

Ok I removed water pump, injector plumbing, manifolds, exhaust, covers, rockers and push rods but did not have an extra deep socket for the head studs and have had to order one.  The stud nuts are too tight for my spanner.  

 

To my untrained eye the rockers look pristine and the push rods roll evenly so I'm hoping they are good.  

Keep all bits separate and put back in same positions ie same rod back in same hole etc. REREAD manual. I photocopy relevant pages and cross out irrelevant stuff. Clean all gasket mating surfaces carefully and thoroughly and degrease and Don’t use any sealant other than on the valve cover  as per manual. You will probably find water pump tube seized into crank just leave but replace ring at watetpump end.

I left injectors in but if you want them out you will need an extra deep socket as per Lamda sensor removal socket

Good luck. Keep going!  CAREFuLLY. A faint heart never won a fat woman !

 

[SiFi]

12 hours ago, Peugeot 106 said:

Keep all bits separate and put back in same positions ie same rod back in same hole etc. REREAD manual. I photocopy relevant pages and cross out irrelevant stuff. Clean all gasket mating surfaces carefully and thoroughly and degrease and Don’t use any sealant other than on the valve cover  as per manual. You will probably find water pump tube seized into crank just leave but replace ring at watetpump end.

I left injectors in but if you want them out you will need an extra deep socket as per Lamda sensor removal socket

Good luck. Keep going!  CAREFuLLY. A faint heart never won a fat woman !

 

Thanks,

 

I don't follow what you mean by "water pump seized into crank" and do you mean the oil seal on the governor cover that goes over the end of the crank shaft or the main seal on the crank shaft?

[Peugeot 106]

19 minutes ago, SiFi said:

Thanks,

 

I don't follow what you mean by "water pump seized into crank" and do you mean the oil seal on the governor cover that goes over the end of the crank shaft or the main seal on the crank shaft?

No There is a short pipe connects the water pump to the crankcase. When you take the pump baseplate off the bit connected to the crankcase in my case was stuck rigid (corroded ) to the crankcase leaving it as a short stub sticking out: I left it corroded into the crankcase so couldn’t get at the inner o ring seal but made sure I replaced the seal at the end I could get at which seals it to the water pump. 
if you look at the parts list the stub pipe should come out. If it’s not corroded in

it should waggle a bit bu I did not want to disturb anything as I have never had coolant leakage. If I did have to get it out I think heat and tapping

might get it out but because of access it would be very awkward for me

if you don’t understand ask me again and I will dig out the drawing. 
the governor cover is fine but clean and degrease surfaces well (no sealant) torque up in correct order as manual. The oil seal is fine and you can get a special tool which ensures it sets properly. (Probably not used by roughneck experienced mechanics but hey ho in my view it’s all about reducing things that can go wrong and £30 is

about 20 mins of his time! Money well spent). Sleeman or Cotswold both sell them next day delivery

[SiFi]

Thanks,

 

There is a (mounting/base) plate sandwiched between the pump and the block. I imagine the Lister manual is expecting this to come off to aid the refitting of the head. Is that correct? I need to have a closer look but I could not see how it is fastened.  I also need to check whether I have a gasket in the decoke pack for it.

[Peugeot 106]

29 minutes ago, SiFi said:

Thanks,

 

There is a (mounting/base) plate sandwiched between the pump and the block. I imagine the Lister manual is expecting this to come off to aid the refitting of the head. Is that correct? I need to have a closer look but I could not see how it is fastened.  I also need to check whether I have a gasket in the decoke pack for it.

Yes. There are 5  M8 bolts and 2 stud nuts assuming it is a newer remgine: the old ones apparently had only 5 studs. Note where they come from different lengths. It pulls/taps  off forwards. The only thing holding it will be item 7 sleeve that I called stub pipe. What I was trying to explain is that item 7 will probably tremain corroded into the crankcase. I just left it in so you can only replace one of the o rings item 8

[RLWP]

7 hours ago, Peugeot 106 said:

The only thing holding it will be item 7 sleeve that I called stub pipe.

 

If you are really lucky, it will have a modern replacement

 

It's made of black nylon

 

Richard

[Peugeot 106]

12 minutes ago, RLWP said:

 

If you are really lucky, it will have a modern replacement

 

It's made of black nylon

 

Richard

Well I never! Makes sense my steel one is well and truly jammed in but luckily doesn’t leak. 
 

please pick me up if i give him any bad advice I only have experience of one engine + one in bits but do take an interest

mine has done over 1000 hours without missing a beat since you fixed it and I have finally eliminated all the minor oil leaks

 

i treat it like I treat my seagulls and they have never let me down either despite pushing my camping sailing dinghies hundreds of miles mostly on the sea. People say they are so reliable you can use any old fuel, any old oil etc. it’s rubbish if you do they will probably fail you need to read the manuals not folklaw

All Best