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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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Hi all, I’m a technical noob, but I know how to operate a crimping tool. Which is what I think I’ll be needing to do... Trouble is, I don’t know what switch to buy and try out my crimping skills on. I recently discovered the source of my electrical problems with the 12v lights in the kitchen area of my boat, which had been intermittent, and then failed utterly. It was this: The area around the mid hatch was leaking in heavy rain, and running down inside the boxed in wooden conduit beneath the hatch, where it pooled around the switch, rotting the wood there and eventually corroding the terminals on the switch until one basically just corroded right through. As you can see from the photo, the legend on the switch reads ‘<on 10A 250V >on’. The switch appears to originally have had just the three terminals on the back, the two that are still attached, and the one that corroded through. Can anyone tell me what such a switch is likely to be described as on websites, (I get confused by all the ‘DPST’ ‘SPDT’ stuff) or, better still, provide a link to a like-for-like replacement? It’ll need to be UK based and hopefully able to deliver in the next couple of days. Thanks!
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I have bought a replacement reed switch for my Thetford C200 toilet. I have checked the magnets in the cassettes with an external magnet and they appear to be working correctly. I'd like to replace it without taking the toilet out. The cassette comes out in a cupboard so it is quite a contortion to get at it. I cannot see or feel the screw that holds it in place. The diagram that came with the new one is useless. Does anyone have a decent picture of the mounting screw and fitting please?
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Hi all, I have spent the weekend fitting lights in the living areas of my boat, ready to be wired up once they're all in position. However I have so far been unable to find a 12v switch that looks like a normal light switch. So my question to the good people of the forum: Can I use a standard mains (240v) light switch wired up to the lights? In my googling I have seen people say that you should down-rate the switch by 50% to be on the safe side, so a switch rated at 10 amps with 240v AC should be considered ok for 5 amps with 12v DC. I have also seen people mention the contacts becoming corroded in the switch is used with DC and others say this should be fine. Also will this cause an issue for BSS? I will trawl through the documentation but if someone says "no, you cannot do this" it'll save me a lot of time! If I shouldn't use a standard light switch, does anyone know where I can get 12v switches that look like normal ones you'd find in a house? Thanks in advance!
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My starter battery has gone belly up (showing 6.5v so guessing 3 dead cells but I'll save that for another thread) and the Bukh DV36 manual recommends an 88ah battery which I have duly ordered. As yet I haven't worked out what killed the battery but it's always bothered me somewhat that both start and leisure banks are isolated by a single 2 pole switch on the negative side, this means I can't isolate just one bank. Now I know I could swap this out for a 3 position switch but that would be a major ball ache so am going to add a separate isolater switch on the starter battery side which will then allow me to switch off just the starter battery and leave the leisure bank on. Since the boat rarely moves from the marina there's no reason why the starter battery needs to be permanently connected and by isolating it i can prevent any drain between the 2 banks - not that I have any evidence yet of this happening but since I'm fitting a new battery I may as well take an extra precaution. So the question is, can I put the isolation switch on the positive side or does it have to be on the negative? Thanks David
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Hi All, How does a boat fridge switch between 12v and 240v when plugged in to shoreline, is it just a case of fitting a rocker switch to the 12v and turning off when plugged into shoreline. Cheers Markymark
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I'm hoping to wire up my second (leisure) battery this weekend via a VSR (Voltage Sensitive Relay). I may have goofed and bought the wrong cables. Are these cables suitable to go from the first battery to the VSR and the VSR to the second battery? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0711V19RR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It describes them as: Sectional battery cable 10 mm2 made in Germany Length: 50cm (distance between the centre of one hole to another) Colour: red, very flexible, very pliable in a PVC sheathing Eyelets: 2 x M5 (provided in mm for the diameter of the eye opening) - high conductivity and dense wall thickness. Application: Battery cable for car, voltage of battery cables is 12 V, suitable for car cable clamps Just wary as the current cables to/from the main battery is a bit thicker.