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Showing results for tags 'gearbox'.
Found 22 results
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Hello this is my first post here, I was driving my boat the other day and I lost the reverse gear, I took a look at it and noticed this part highlighted no longer moved into reverse when the throttle was pulled back into reverse. Any help? Please ignore all the oil in the bilge I had an oil spill from the engine a few days ago which is all sorted now just need to clean up
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Hello I got some 15w 40 oil for my BMC 1.5 and was wondering if this is the best option for it and what quantity to put into once fully drained? If so does anyone recommend a certain brand and where to get it cheap? Also asking about the best oil for the gearbox? Appreciate all suggestions! Thank you 🙃 all the best Goldilocks
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We have a Canaline 38 with a PRM 120 gearbox. If we wanted to change it out for a PRM 150 is the fit the same or will I need a new flywheel cover/endplate and modify the prop shaft etc. I read it will also need an oil cooler does this use raw canal water or is it plumbed in to the engine cooling water.
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Wot it says in the title... Start engine, into gear and nothing - for about 5 seconds and then the prop starts churning properly. It happened when we set off from the mooring on our last cruise but then all was good for the rest of the cruise. Gearbox PRM120D transmission fluid about 1-2cm above mark on dipstick.. difficult to tell as is clear fluid! Got OH to observe driveshaft and it is THIS which starts to turn really slowly at first and then suddenly speeds up, so i may be wrong but don't suspect the prop.. v difficult to access weedhatch! Help? (Beta 38 engine btw....)
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I have the above gearbox fitted to my Lamborghini engine. The gearbox has a single nut holding the coupling on the drive shaft which when coupled to the the prop shaft is inside the two couplings. Problem is the nut keeps undoing itself and the drive shaft parts when I put in reverse leaving mm email with no drive at all forward or backwards. I have to take it apart every home it happens , tighten the nut, put lcktite on a bed burr the ends but to no avail. After a while it comes apart again as the nut had loosened and fell off. What can I do to stop this happening?
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Hi recent issue, I believe the output shaft seal has gone on me. I was playing with the morse controller without the engine running and when I fired it up this began to leak. its behind the control plate, how can I take this apart and replace the seal, I really need to do it myself as I am out of money. But worried I may lose something. any help will be great. Okay so I should scrap the above, how to keep the ball bearing and spring in place, when I undo the nut where the control lever lives ? IMG_1644.mp4 IMG_1681.MOV
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5I'm currently cruising the K&A when without warning or any noise I have lost reverse gear. I have searched technical manuals and have deduced that it is a conical clutch system. I have disconnected my drive cable and tested it for movement. The cable operates freely. I carried out the following check with the cable disconnected. With the engine running I operated the gearbox lever by hand. It engages fwd drive ok, however on full movement into reverse the propshaft is barely turning. Is there any adjustment I can carry out which would enable reverse to engage correctly without affecting fwd drive? Any advice and help would be grately received
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Hi all, When family and friends are steering the boat they are often clunk from forward straight into reverse without knowing. Although I advise that when the handle on the gear rod is in neutral, it is inline with the hatch front, as there is no resistance often they forget. I wondered if I could add a shim or block to the rod and attach a metal flap to the ceiling so there is some resistance at the neutral point. Anyone done this and any nifty ideas or suggestions? (other than steering the boat myself) Tom
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Could anyone identify this gear box please. It's attached to a BMC 1.5 with polar heat exchanger. The gear is slipping on high revs and I have been told there is a clutch tensioner but not so sure. Any help would be much appreciated.
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I have just had my gearbox and drive plate replaced with a like for like Technodrive TMC60-P coupled to Vetus M4.15. Its on a SeaOtter. I did consider a PRM150 but unfortunately it wouldn't fit my boat. A downside of having to change a gearbox in a SeaOtter is that you have to lift it out of the water due to the PSS seal that is used. I have taken the boat from Reading to Newbury this last weekend (15hrs) which is its first outing since the fitting and the gears engage OK and I also appear to have adequate thrust but the gearbox has a terrible rattle like some one shaking a handful of bolts in a tin can. A noise I didn't have before and it occurs both in forward and reverse. oddly enough with the engine board lifted and engine exposed you can barely hear it but with the boards down it transmits and is amplified through the tiller. Any thoughts? I'd like to understand some of the possible causes before I get the engineer who fitted it back (River Canal Rescue).
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Hi all. Today I have taken my narrowboat out for the first time in a year. I'm currently moored on the canal and am stranded. Today when on the water there was some loud clunks when shifting into gear. The boat then stuck in gear and I ended up crashing into a lock. Traumatic experience... I have just discovered I have no oil in the PRM 120D2 gearbox. Can anyone advise my next step to fixing this issue please? Is it as simple as adding more oil? Many thanks, Jason
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- barge
- canal
- gearbox
- narrowboat
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Hi. I have a norwegian displacemeant / semi displacemeant Tresfjord 26 boat and im thinking about chancing the propeller. 8m long (waterline is 7.4m) and 2.8m wide, draft is 1m. Boat weights 2500kg fully loaded. Beta engine is rated 43hp @2800rpm, prm 150 gearbox is 1:2,09. It says on beta's website that the right propeller for beta 43 with gearbox ratio of 1:2 is a three blade 18x12. Would a 3 blade 18x13 propeller be over pitched? What kind of propellers do people have with this same engine and gearbox setup and what is the achiavable max engine rpm. I dont want a propeller that is oversized and i wont be able to reach 2800rpm My current propeller is a vetus 3 blade 16x14 and im getting maximum of 3000rpm and at cruising speed my propeller slip is 40% Regards Henri
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Any body had a parsons gearbox lacking oil presure failing to go into forward gear
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A friend has a hard to pinpoint oil leak from his PRM150. I too have a PRM150, but mine is rather lovely and wouldn't dream of doing such a thing to me, it's doting owner. His is quite young, though it's long out of warranty due to sitting on the builders shelf so PRM are understandably not rushing to be responsible. It seems seems likely to be a seal as he says he has no signs of damage, but what are the common sources of said leaks and, prempting the results of the better informed search, which of the issues can be resolved with the gearbox in situ? Thanks in anticipation.
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Hi All. Was doing a bit of maintenance on my 1.5 BMC last weekend, changed the belts etc. I've had a loose lever on the Morse control for ages, so seeing as I had the tools out, I tightened that. Realised the cables were quite loose too and after a bit of looking around and poking it looks like the whole system is a bit bodged. Where they attach to the control end, one of cables isn't fastened, so when you move the lever the whole cable (inc sheaf) moves, rather than just the wire inside the cable. Other than that, I think the system is in good condition, but a lot of adjustment is needed, ie: *Movement forward and backward is very stiff *The engine rev's loads before the propeller is engaged in either direction Has anyone played with a Morse? any tips? Is it worth trying to de-grease the inside of the cables or is it just better to buy a new set? Thanks, Jess
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Hello, I'm new to this great forum, and generally to boating to be honest (steep learning curve!). I hope you're all enjoying this amazing sun, long may it last! Sorry to dive straight in with a question... I hope to be able to contribute more myself, when I know more about boats and engines in the future!! I recently acquired what I was informed to be a 1939 larch on oak sea plane tender by vosper. I have a perkins s6m engine and gearbox in her too. I'm trying to do some research, and I can't find anything else quite like her... I'm beginning to wonder if she might be a torpedo boat instead... As it seems vosper made more of these... If anyone could help she's any light, or point me in the right direction on how to find out for sure. It would be hugely appreciated! I'm typing this on my phone, and can't work out how to attach a picture! If you text me, I'll happily send you one! 07879 812 789 I'm currently on the Thames, near Eaton, more precisely near Boveney Lock, and I was heading to Kingston, until the gearbox sadly gave way! So I'm stuck here for a little while. I'm using the time to do some research, to give her a lick of paint and obviously to sort out the gearbox (the main thing!). Here's a little bit of background on the issue. Last weekend on 5th and 6th April, the engine started like a dream, and I took her from Caversham to Cookham, down the Thames. On the first morning, we sadly ran aground, and had her in reverse for an hour or two, to try and free her. We eventually got rugged free by a friendly wide beam... Shortly after this, we could not find the reverse gear at all... Just a bit if grinding... But not action. We pressed on with just the forward gear, and used ropes to stop, which worked ok. I put in some new oil into the gearbox too... And we checked the levers... But even manually pulling the bit directly linked to the gearbox, did nothing. This weekend, just gone, we set off on Saturday and things went quite well from Cookham to Boveney Lock... And then we lost forward gear as I was trying to pull out of the lock! So now I'm really stuck, and it's a bit of a emergency really. I'm trying to get to my mooring in Kingston. It's a fantastic adventure of course, but it's a bit of a worry that all these things keep going wrong. Canal & river rescue came on Saturday to try and get her started, but they couldn't. It seems like the gearbox may have seized (no idea why).. And it may need to be removed and reconditioned. I can't help wondering if it may be easier, quicker and more economical to fjnd a replacement perkins s6m gearbox perhaps? And wondered if any of you may have one for sale, or indeed just have a view on my predicament?! I think I may do a spot of painting now. We fixed up the hull (larch on oak) over the winter, replacing about 20 m of planking! However, above deck,she needs a bit of tlc to say the least. Still, it's a lovely sunny day for it! Thanks in advance for anything you're bale to suggest to help me!! Best regards, Marcus
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Good Evening, I hope you can help me, I'm having some trouble with a fast oil leak on my gearbox (prm delta) its needs topping off every couple of weeks or more. Theres a picture below showing you the leak where the pan is placed just below. The leak is on the bottom right, possibly that's the lowest point? or maybe that gives a clue to the problem? Also the oil (sae 30) is going in clear and coming out black so it must be mixing somewhere. The engine oil level is fine, never needed topping up. Does anyone know if the gearbox can be removed still in the water with this setup? Any help appreciated. Thanks! p.s. apologies for the state of the engine! After this and some other issues are sorted it'll get a good clean!
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Hi I know nothing about engines, engineering, gearboxes and the like. My sincere apologies. I have a narrowboat with, I'm told, a Lister LH150 Hydraulic Reverse gearbox. Having made it through the Standedge Tunnel, it started to cut out when I put it into reverse. Initially it would restart and move into reverse okay, but it became progressively worse on the downhill stretch to Huddersfield, and since getting to Mirfield I was unable to get it into Reverse at all, it's permanently stuck in forward gear. I've got it down to a wharf in Wakefield and they've checked it over, but it's nothing particularly obvious (adjustment etc) so I need advice from an expert - is it fixable? Am I looking at getting it taken off and sent away somewhere? New gearbox time? Help! Thanks Rob
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Hi, As the plates are missing from this gearbox could someone please help me identify it? I am pretty sure it is a Velvet Drive 71C but just want to confirm it. Also, I believe a seal is broken as there is oil spraying when engine is running. According to some of the posts I have managed to find it appears that parts are hard to come by and I may need to order from the US. Is this the case and does anyone have any experience of this and can recommend a supplier? Final question. There does not appear to be a dipstick on this gearbox. Is this normal or does it need to be replaced? First time adding pics so I hope they are okay. Many thanks for all your help. Strummerjoe
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Dear all, I have a beta marine 38, with a PRM delta gearbox (no input shaft spline wear) driven by an R & D 'extra dampening' drive plate. Coupled via a double-cardan/constant velocity joint (from a london taxi propshaft), through a plumber's block to the stern bearing. When engaged in gear, at tick-over (wound down to 550rpm), there is a distinct 'clonk-clonk-clonk' coming from the region of the gearbox. At higher engine speeds, this noise seems to go away, although that could just be the engine drowning it out. The shaft/cv join moves freely (with the force expected to drive a prop in water) by hand in both directions. The engine is angled down slightly on its mounts (adjustable screw-nut ones) so that the double-cardan input is slightly off-set. My question is - should I worry about this? I have no nylon coupling between the gearbox and the prop/cv-join input shaft, so is this likely to just be 'clonky plumbers block'? Should I raise the tick-over? It was wound down when the engine control lever insisted on increasing the rpm prior to engaging gear - there is now a correct control lever. I think the rated tickover is 750rpm. I will increase it. Many thanks, Patrick Vale (cross-posted to http://www.waterwaysworld.com/questions.cgi) Which seems to have replaced the title - should read 'Drive train clonking in gear'.
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It's many, many years since I dismantled any engine and I'm beginning to panic. My trusty Beta 50 is almost as old as I, and because nobody seems interested on the work (Thames based), I am faced with having to do the work myself - including removing th engine fromthe boat (done that before). So, dear readers is there any magic I should know about? - Tricks/ (it always a bummer getting the splines to match up) Torques? When is a drive plate (mine's only 18 months old) on its way out Why does the box dipstick say it's "empty" when I've put the required volume of oil in plus an allowance for the cooler? Any contact for a reliable fitter who is not currently over committed would be welcomed.....
