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Showing results for tags 'calorifier'.
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My calorifier started leaking a year ago. On top of it I can't start my engine. I had a 'recommended handyman' at the time, but he vanished from our email exchange when I wanted a ball park quote (I really just wanted a rough idea at least for the calorifier). To make a long story short, I ended up leaving it as my studies were so intense (I moved nowhere and I've been using the mooring tap since). So, I am on the look out for a good & decent priced handyman who can do both, if anyone knows one? Alternatively: is it easy to replace a calorifier? As in, can I simply unplug from all pipes, lift it out, and then insert the new one? All help is greatly appreciated! My student economy is tight, so I need someone reliable.
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Hi, when running a tap, for long enough to make the water pump , start pumping, as soon as the tap is turned off and then the water pump stops. Water is spurted out of the p r v into the canal for a few seconds. This used to happen occasionally, but now it has started happening every time I turn on the tap for a few seconds. Is there a problem ? I am not very practical minded in DIY so wondered if I need to get someone to look at it for me. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Hi all Does anybody out there have a barrus shanks engine with a calorifier installed via twin stats thanks in advance
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Morning, a riddle for you all. Symptoms; - Pump running intermittently (every ~30seconds), but no evidence of a leak so far (checked all joints). (I also first replaced the pump and the issue has remained, so I've ruled pump failure out). - Engine coolant is mysteriously overfull (has not been touched since I flushed and refilled before winter, and has been at a good level until now). - Taste of antifreeze when showering. These issues all arose in the same week - is there any connection? My current theory is a failure in the coil connected to the engine in the calorifier. This is causing the pump to run, pushing water into the engine cooling loop, and simultaneously leaking engine coolant into domestic supply. Given the cost and contortion required to fit a new calorifier, are there any more tests I can try to confirm? Or has anyone got another solution? Many thanks, Andrew
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When I moved onto the boat I inherited a certain amount of 'creative' plumbing. There's a double coil calorifier heated from the engine and an Eberspacher 4 hydronic (it has an immersion as well). The Eberpacher used to feed a run of radiators the length of the boat as well as the calorifier. There's a header tank too and a mass of old capped polypipe, strange little t-junctions and spurs that don't seem to lead anywhere and so on. It looks like it was put in by Central Services from 'Brazil' on a bad day. Well, I finally got fed up with the superfluous radiators and ripped them out (the stove does a much better job of space heating) but I'd like to keep the Eberspacher to just heat the water in the calorifier from time to time - so I don't have to run the engine when I'm moored up. Also I've got a timer on it so I can heat up a tank of water for early morning use. Does anyone have a clear illustration of the minimal, safe arrangement of pipes and valves that I'd need to just use the Ebbie to heat the calorifier without short-cycling, tripping out etc? I assume a balancing valve on the way in (and out?) and the header tank still included. Most of the diagrams I can find (including on manufacturer sites) either show loads of radiators, bypass circuits etc or are alarmingly vague about valves etc. (i.e. don't show any). Thanks in advance. Patrick
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Hi all, Hopefully someone knows the answer to this. I have an Eberspacher that heats a calorifier. I run the Eber for about an hour and we get a decent amount of hot water for showers. My issue is the amount of time it takes for the hot water to reach the taps. I measured it this morning and it took 12 litres of water before it turned warm. This is the same every time the first person wants hot water. Can anyone suggest why this would happen? The shower is quite close to the calorifier, just a bedroom in between, so I'm finding it hard to make any sense of why it takes the amount of time. Please help!
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I've just bought an old Trentcraft GRP cruiser with a Perkins 100 series 3 cyl diesel engine. It has a heat exchanger that incorporates the exhaust manifold and uses canal/river water to cool it (and spits it out of the exhaust). There's a separate clean water supply via a header tank on top of the heat exchanger and a conventional (ie car type) water pump driven by vee belt. There's a bottom hose from the heat exchanger to the water pump but whereas on (old) cars you get a thermostat housing on top of the cylinder head and a top hose to the rad on this there's nothing like that. I assume the flow is through the cylinder head straight into the heat exchanger. According to a downloaded manual (which isn't very clear) there should be a thermostat behind the water pump, but the temp gauge varies from about 40°C on a canal to 70°C going upstream on a river so I suspect the thermostat is either jammed or missing. I'll strip it down at the end of the year and check. There are two tapping points on top of the water pump, currently plugged with threaded blanking plugs. I would like to fit a small calorifer but can't figure our where to connect to. Are the two tapped holes on the pump usable as flow and return? If so which is which, is there some way to find out? Or should I take hot water from one of those (which?) and return to a tee in the bottom hose? Any advice anyone?
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Hi All, I am quite new to (canal) boating. My calorifier is leaking and I'd like to isolate and drain it as I think I know where the leak is coming from. It is an upright one with a red knob at the top. This is connected to a run off pipe which has a milk bottle at the end that I have to empty every 3 months or so. The only other tap I can see is more conventional stop-cock tap, however, this leads to the gas water heater. The only other option I can think of is to drain the whole water tank in the bow and try that. Any help or advice would be really appreciated. Thanks and Happy New Year - Daniel
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I'm busy trying to get to the bottom of what a narrow boat build would entail so my head is swimming with info - in particular heating options! Ideally the hot water tank and/or radiators could be heated from the engine, a stove or an auxilliary diesel burner, however the plans i have found tend to use the engine on one calorifier coil and the stove / diesel heater on the radiator loop to calorifier which i dont think is as flexible. The engine would be used when cruising or charging batteries (maybe assisted by solar panel), the multifuel stove would provide primary source of hot water and space heating, and a diesel burner would provide a backup/fast heat. It would be good if any of the pimaries could be fed to either the hot tank or the radiators using a 3-way motorised valve. Please see diagram below of what im thinking, which im sure needs tweaking if not scrapping completely! Is the basic principle of what im geting at workable?
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Hi guys, What is this? Is it a pump that feeds the calorifier? I have bought a boat with the calorifier disconnected. There are two hoses on it that should be plumbed into the engine but no obvious inlet/exit fittings. This pump must have been disconnected/blanked off as it is leaking, both from the shaft & the gasket. It's also been packed with grease, presumablyto negate the leak but it ain't cutting it. When the engine is running, it starts losing a lot of water & I can't really sort out the rest of the cooling system &/or add antifreeze until it is either watertight or swapped out for something that works. In order to fix it I would need to know brand, model & function. I'm good for air cooled motorbike engines but I don't know much about water cooling stuff such as cars, boats etc... Any ideas?
