W+T

If you are just using the PIR as a box with no inner or outer lining then wrap it in duct tape and inside use aluminum foil tape for the corners. job done, no need to glue the joints.

if you dont like GRP boats then why ask about one for god sake.

Yep i got one many years ago, bloody hell you got a better memory than me. Mine had a petrol inboard under the cabin seat SB side on shaft.. I did like the lay out. seemed very a solid boat. I did have a plan for the slide back roof to reduce the draughtyness. This mite give a better idea https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?/topic/37487-dalescraft-bit-scarce-i-see/

You called So what do you want to know, what materials or how to do it Lucy.

You called

Ah well that's what I waa expecting. I was thinking on using o e of these https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F402309488370 Mite just have to go with a gulper. The ballast i need to remove is very little and you couldn't tell. Thanks kida ?

I am fitting a wetroom in a NB and instead of cutting a test hole thought I would first ask here. It is a 38 foot NB and was wondering what the height would be if it is a standard under the ply floor ? ?

Form research this one will do around 5gph which isnt bad at 30knots.

whys that Rach

Yep MK1 Fairline Fury, cracking boats, not that many about know. It come with the original twin Volvo Penta AQ130s and 270 outdrives. I fell in love with them a while ago as a few boats moored down from Khash is the same, model but for it being converted to 15hp outboard, is for sale soon but not for me that one.

Thanks Rach. Ona good note though I think you mire appreciate the new project though Rach. Well its my sanity now, atleast ill still have a boat to sit on int garden lol Wort bit is getting blinkin help to do things.

Areat there. wellll. to the point i am one foot int he grave. well slight exaggeration lol. But bleedin feel like it at times. Over last so many months i am getting worse either nerve or tendon problems in shoulders and elbows. So the Norman is going i ma afraid, ripped all the mould down a few week back, and all other boats are going, NB has gone, i got a Loftus Bennet 19 i mite keep yet. Khash is going asap. . I have had to cut back on the Boat Works Services aswell due to health. I am soooo dam gutted not to be able to the Norman aswell and as the business, is/was doing so well. but hey ho. Over it now. been down but lets crack on. PS i have near got an easier project

Now why do you think would i be daft enough to do something like that. ??

The filler i was thinking is what i use a lot with Epoxy and thats West Systems 407. I just didnt like the idea to just treat with rust treatment and paint then stick in the windows with adhesive. Although If thats how its done though i will. Thanks easier than i thought.

I am working on a NB that needs the windows putting back in, they were remove some time ago. Now all around the aperture where the frame is mounted to has corroded a fair bit. I can think of two ways ti fix this before refitting the windows. weld in new aperture frame or smooth out with Epoxy/filler. The choice to cut away corrosion and fit new windows is off the cards. What other ways to make good can you suggest ?

So thank you for replies. Now are there any you would not use due to warping or any other reason etc etc

Hi all. So what suggestions are there from folk that have had a wooden floor fitted to there steel boats. Which did you use ?

I would sort of love that

Took long enough for a good reply, and not meaning to use 3mm sheet but sensible to the question asked. Still need a link to look into it though as first question.

Thanks i will look into using thicker steel , just what most other folk have said that i spoke to who built a few boats say 3mm will be ok. still any link please. why you talking shit, did i say `i am going to ignore that`.....no

Ok i need to plan this project. I will be welding on a new superstructure to a 47 foot steel hulled NB I will be using 3mm steel fro side and top, some will say use thicker plate, 3mm is good enough. Now i want to do this properly can anybody link me to any decent place to look up on doing this. I have seen some right contraptions on my travels. I have a good idea how i would do it an dit would work but then there is the proper ( professional ) way. Captain Faffer

Well got first price to do it. £7000 to do the full job and £2600 to weld my prep work up.

A though on this. When i looked over the boat the over plating looked a good thickness. I plan to remove the ply/grp superstructure and weld on a new steel superstructure. Would this be then to heavy ? Its difficult to tell i guess.

We are talking just to stretch a hull here.

I didnt know you did, or if you did i didnt realise you are so stuck on it not being worth it. Its worth depending on cost. Must be. if i get somebody else to do a full job then yes if they want £12k plus to do it. If i did the work myself, all the prep, and tacked up to be welded then that could change things. At the minute though its staying as it is and fitting a steel top