Bobbybass

Hi..the alternator was fine last year...guess it could be duff......but don't forget...I'm getting the same affect (13 volts now) from the battery charger when on shore power...and the solar cells... Keep 'em coming...thanks... Bob

Hi again...THe electrolyte level is just below the filler neck. Hydrometer ( ?) reading is the same on all cells and is in the green zone. THe charge voltage though...is only 13 volts on solar....alternator...or land based Sterling battery charger ? It was about 14.2 volts last year.... I'll follow you advice and try each one separatley in case its just one battery causing problems... Thanks for your thoughts. Bob

Felt safe most of the time....moored outside the Narrowboat pub at Islington (silly spot really) and got untied...but...I always loop a chain around the bollard and padlock to the centre fender hanger if I am in a suspect area...and this held us OK...not that you would drift far there.. THe light caught us out at Southall and we moored in an area with large lads with scary dogs...but we were fine... Safety in numbers.....is always a good thought...but we have abandoned our old lifestyle...and have to go with the flow... If we wanted a life of safety and security....we would be sitting in a house...(listening to the yobs outside) ..moaning about our neighbours...!!

Hi.. I have studied recent comments with great interest, and also the excellent batteryfaq.org site I acquired my boat last year (so I'm learning) and it has 3 110ah consumer batteries, a large alternator (standard one was replaced with 120A if I recall) and 2 x 120w solar cells. The batteries are monitored with a Sterling battery management panel. Now...bear in mind...I'm LEARNING. The previous owner left me a note that I should try and get the Sterling (amps in/out) to indicate down to '000.00) after a days cruising to show the battereis were charged. He also said to try and get the Sterling to indicate at least 12.4 volts before retiring for the night and not to let it drop below 12.2 volts. The battereis were new when I bought the boat. Even after a full day..I only got it down to 3 - 4 amps...never the 000.00 that the previous owner mentioned....but they would show an alernator charge voltage of 14.2 volts on the Sterling and a positive (14 volts) needle swing on the conventional voltmeter (dial type on Beta panel) I see from the graph on the 'batteries faq' site...that at 70 degree electrolyte temperature the previous owner was 'on the money' as the graph says 12.643 volts for 100% SOC and 12.238 volts for 50% SOC So far...so good... I returned to the boat this spring...and the solar cells had been charging and the Sterling panel read 14.8 volts on the unloaded batteries. We cruised for about 7 hours...the meter read 3 amps charging in...and at days end..the batteries read 14.8 volts with a load (lights invertor) Over the next few days..the battery voltage didn't read below 12.8 volts...even with hours of watching TV. This continued for several weeks..then they started to 'drop off'. The Sterling registered 13 volts alternator charging...and the conventional voltmeter needle ( Beta panel) now sits in the middle and sometimes heads down towarde the 12 volt reading) It now takes a long time to put a charge in the batteries and then they last for a very much shorter time than they did before. Although they do show 12.7 volt fully charge..which is still about right according to the batteryfaq site...they drop to 12.2 volts (50%) after only a few hours. I think that I will need to replace the batteries before next seasons cruising...but I wonder if they have suffered due to the solar cells overcharging ? THere is a charge control unit on the cells...and they seem to be reading the correct voltage..ie 17volts from the solar cell...before the regulator....14.2 volts on the Sterling panel when in full sunlight and charging...(checked on my Whitegold meter as well) Do I need to visit the boat more regularly during the 'lay up' period and run appliances to draw from the batteries..? I think its the initial 14.8 volt reading that worries me...nothing I read mentions voltage readings in this range ? Obviously..the charging voltage should not be reading 13 volts now....I assume..it should be reading 14.2 volts when the batteries are at 50% SOC..and the standard meter shouldn't be sitting in this range either.? The solar cell reading is only 13volts in full sunlight as well..? Is it just a fact of life that I will be replacing them once a year ? Do I need to make changes ? Thanks..... Bob.

Hi..I'm sure Tony will answer..better than I...I also...am a simpleton....and had to find out in simple terms : The accumulator has a kind of rubber blow up beach ball inside... As the pressure in your system increases it compresses the water in the cylinder aound the 'ball'...and the ball squashes... THe pressure in the ball should be less than the cut-out pressure of your system so that it gets compressed. Thus...when the pressure in your system starts to drop...as it may do during the night..the ball starts to expand and keeps the system above the cut-in pressure. This stops annoying 'cut-ins' during the night...a sort of...reservoir.. THey are also used in hot water systems near the tank..where you may have a variable speed water pump (as I do) This is because the water pump will always keep the system above the cut-out pressure. Problem with that is ...when you heat the water it expands and if the pump has compressed it to cut-out pressure...the pressure in the system will rise...to the point where you may blow the safety valve on the tank and end up all wet ! In this case (With a VS pump) the accunulator ball is compressed by the water as it expands and maintains a safe pressure level. It isn't need to reservoir the pump as a VS (variable speed ) pump kicks in and out very slightly to maintain the pressure.(silently) I used my car footpump to pump up mine as t has a pressure guage on it (the pump) .. Sorry..can't recall the calculation...but it has to be a little lower than the cut-out pressure..otherwise the ball won't be compressed and it won't work. I'm sure others will fill in any gaps I have left and tell what the pressure should be... I seem to think my VS pump cuts out at 30 psi and the ball is pumped to about 25 PSI ? I seem to recall..its not that critical...as long as there is capacity for compression.... Bob

If its an MSC unit, the sender usually has 2 adjustment 'potentiemeters' on the sender board to set the empty / full If they are not set properly, it will give these symptons. If the empty 'pot' is set too low it does this. Locate the correct 'pot' (tiny things with a centre screw adjustment...you need a screwdriver like you need to repair specatcles..) When the tank is empty...turn the screw so that the guage just starts to move of the bottom 'stop'...don't take it below this point.. Fill the tank..use the other screw to adjust the maximum mark Hope this helps..? Bob

I'd mark off a piece of masking tape to the exact circumference....then measure and put 4 marks on it and equal distance apart... Wrap it around the pole and drill through the marks... Sounds simple...? Bob's reality...a day in the life : Mark off masking tape to exact length...cut it...it sticks to fingers....try and unstick it...and crease it up. Cut several other bits of tape before getting a bit thats not all creased... Lay it down and put 4 marks on it...pick up dust so it doesn't stick anymore... Cut masking tape to exact length....crease bits....stick to fingers..collect dust... Eventually get exact length piece with 4 marks on it and no dust ....wrap it around pole..but ends don't match up and you tear it off and its loses its sticky.. You've now run out of tape...so catch bus to shop and buy another roll. Cut tape to exact length ...several times.... Eventually you stick it to pole and its correct.... Use a centre punch... Discover that the tube is no longer round now as you hit it too hard.. Go to shop....buy a hacksaw....cut off ruined end..snap hacksaw blade... Cut finger and take a chunk out of the kitchen work surface.. Buy wine for wife and try and make the chip in the work surface less obvious so you can blame it on wife at a later point. Cut masking tape...stick to fingers...etc etc... Try and drill through first hole.....slip several times and drill holes in wifes chopping board.. Go to shop...buy chopping board... Come back....damp has got into tape so it falls off at the ends. Cut new piece of tape to exact length and stick to pole... Drill first hole and snap 4mm drill bit..as someone on the website said 'no lubrication'...so it locked up. Use spare 4mm drill bit...this time with soap as someone said on the website.. Pole is too slippery to grip now...it skids around and breaks the wine that you bought to stop your wife realising you chipped the work surface. You grab at the slippery pole and break the 4 mm drill bit, dropping the drill on your foot. Go to shop..buy another drill bit... 3 in one oil...stain remover to get the red wine out of the carpet...compression bandage for the foot..and more wine..bigger bottle this time... Buy more tape in case you run out. Buy spare chopping board as they're always handy... Buy 'chip cover stain' for chunk out of kitchen work surface. Come back...drill another hole.... Drill all 4 holes and stand back proud...but realise that the tape shrank back...and the holes don't match... Go to shop...buy hacksaw blade. Come home.... Hacksaw off the ruined end...cut finger....hobble to shop for plaster... Catch bus...go to engineering works with much shorter pole......give them the price of a pint...let them do it !!! Bob

Hi Chris.. Thanks for the speedy reply and the really informative link.. I have a 60 footer...so the info on the locks is really useful.. Thanks again.... Bob

Hi... Mr ignorant here.. What is a hand spike used for....? Do I need one....? Should I have had one before...? Am I short of one....? Signed : Insecure

Pumping back against the tank wouldn't be so bad I guess .....as the tank will have a breather.. Pumping high pressure into the tank will exert all of that pressure (compressed air above the water ) into the 'culdesac' of the water pump inlet...which will be higher.... HOWEVER.....how did we get to this anyway...I was only answering the threads question that generally asked what guages people have ? Wasn't really an enquiry into how I fixed my guage...wish I'd never answered now.

Sorry...bit technical. The MSC sender unit (inside) is basically just a pressure sensor and guage/meter amplifier in an 8 pin 'chip' package. It sits in the middle of the printed circuit board ..is black..about 12mm square...with 8 little legs... When I blew it on the Thames.....I had to replace it...and rather than solder a new one in and then risk having to do the same at some time...I fitted a holder so that future 'chips' just plug in. As the chips are so cheap...( Ebay ...LM751..I think ? ) I just bought a few...... I'm not anticipating it blowing again... some of the Thames filler hoses were about 2 inches diameter and the pressure was huge... It was a snug fit in my water tank top and when missus Bob switched it on.....whammy...balloon tank and guage off the scale !!! Bob

My Black tank came with the single light ' tank watch'..and I added an MSC guage above the loo..which I am really pleased with....so I have both. I liked the MSC guage so much...I added one to my water tank...simple inline fit...took about 20 minutes. This has been excellent...EXCEPT...I blew out the 'chip' when I filled it on the Thames. The huge Thames filler hose/ pressure was too much.... I just fitted a 'chip' holder..10p.. and got some spare 'chips' for 12p each and its all well again. Diesel tank...digital 'stick'...used to find where the top surface of the fuel is...as described by another here.... Whatever your preference I guess...I do like the simplicity of the guages...horses for courses. Bob

Just a question....is the magic eye receiving the 9 volts ? Many of them have a little red LED on them...is that on ? Also....some boxes have an RF out socket...but they have another marked RF and 9 Volts.. You do have it plugged into the 9 volt one..not just the RF one ? ( sorry to state the obvious) Bob

I copied this from my Skybox website : Setting it up 1) Plug your digibox back into the mains and wait for it all to startup. 2) Press Services on your remote control, then select system setup (4) 3) Press the key sequence 0, 1, then select - you don't see these choices on the menu, but you should now see a screen entitled Installer Setup 4) Select RF Outlets to see the RF Outlet Screen 5) Make a note of the RF Channel Number you may find this easier to tune your second TV 6) Highlight RF Outlet Power Supply and use the right/left arrows to choose ON. 7) Use Bob

Not fair really... I love the shape of the dish..its narrowboats that look silly

I agree....I fitted Camos in April....went Rugby to Thames....up Thames to Letchlade...and back to Rugby...3 months.. As you say...once it finds the sat you turn it off and there is no power use.... I had no problems......and no loss of signal if the boat rocked....loved it As said...you do have to have a clear line of sight...but thats the same wth almost any dish... Cost..?....£1200 !! My old Maplins dish....£69 Why...?......My wife was going to hit me over the head with a frying pan....and I was gonna chuck her in the canal... In my case...a marriage saver... Peace reigned on the good ship Cleo !! Bob

I use PAYG 3 dongle which is 'fair use' and costs £5/ monthNo contract....Great !! Bob

I use Halfords 15/40 enhanced mineral diesel in a black plastic container... My Beta 43 had done 6300 as has the greabox PRM150 on same oil.. Never had any problems....engine oil change every 250 hours...gearbox as per the Beta book every 750 hours... Bob

Hi.. We put a little ' Mltons fluid' in the tank every 'refill' and this keeps our filters gunk free. It also has the advantage that the unfiltered water in the shower gradually bleaches your hair yellow. I now look like Gary Numan's dad... Have a laugh to start your day ! Bob

Hi... Sorry...I'M not teasing...trying to be helpful... I did get it on Ebay....but over a year ago and there weren't so many about then.... My thoughts ( only thoughts...usually muddled) .... Its very heavy and well made..3mm thick ally case with gold plated N-plugs ...and I think they may be making them cheaper now and getting more profit.... It has no make on it...... If I do spot one the same on Ebay...I'll put the link here... Best I can do... Bob

Mine seems better made than that....its in a heavy aluminiun gold coloured case....It has a wiggly aerial like the one on Ebay...which is the indoor one...but it has a special 'plate aerial' for outside... It came with 30 meters very heavy cable (9mm) and N-plugs.... Cost about £250.....and I love it..... I have run the cable to a discrete junction box on the well deck....I then screw the N-plug into it when I put up the mast..... I think its important to have a bit of sepration from the receiving aerial in the boat to the one on the mast...so the mast goes reasonably high. The amp is quite powerful....and if you get the two aerials close...the power drops off...maybe a kind of feedback. I recommend it for Vodafone 3G (but doesn't work on 7.2 MPS or 2G frequency) and its even better for my oblong 3-dongle Expensive though.......I love gadgets...I had to have it !!! Bob

I think you need an aerial in the 1800Mhz frequency range for Vodafone 3G ..thats why a 900Mhz aerial has little affect. I say this as the following is a 'proof of the pudding' scenario...it could be wrong...but it works for me..... I have a special amplifier and mast upload/ download system that operates at 1800Mhz......when I moor up and don't switch it on....I often have no blue light on the dongle or a detectable 3G in range. ..maybe just 2G. When I put the 1800Mhz amplifier on...most of the time the signal shoots up and is often at the top of the band...so therefore...it is reasonable to assume that to get Vodafone 3G...you need an 1800Mhz aerial not 900. The amplifier has no effect on 2G...so that must be another frequency...maybe that is 900 Mhz ? I think though if you require the 7.2MPS speed that is available on many of the dongles...but only some areas..you need a 2100Mhz aerial. My 1800Mhz amplifier has no effect on 7.2MPS speed so this must operate at a higher frequency band. (may not...who knows) If you look at the 'spec' on the Vodafone dongle...it covers all of these bands. My '3' HSDPA dongle also must operate at 1800Mhz as can be seen by the signal boost when I switch on the 1800 amplifier. Its huge !! Hope this helps. Bob

Hmmmm..... My engine and gearbox has done 6200 hours.... The Beta 43 manual I have shows engine services 250 hours/ one year and PRM150 gearbox oil change at 750 hours or two years .... Which is what I have always stuck to... No power loss and no blue smoke from engine. Maybe the Halfords 15/40 mineral enhanced oil is particularly hard wearing ? Bob

Having worked for the MOD in research for a number of years..I can assure you that the voltage and frequency can vary well outside of those limits. We had permanent monitoring on the grid and I have seen voltages shift from 210 to 260 volts ...with occasional 'spikes' that would scare the life out of you.... and frequency well outside the 'ideal world' situation....all depends on the things that Mr Average loads the grid with.. Having said that..the grid is not in dispute here....I'm sure you are right...change the washing machine... I'm still 'into' the earth situation though... The earth will be properly connected when on shore power...but not so on invertor...and rogue frequency could appear in the system. How about ( only if competent electrically)...connecting the shore earth when on land power...but running it off the invertor to see if there is an earth problem..? Another 5 peneth worth...

Triacs tend to just stop/fail ..not fade away....so if it works occasionally....I wouldn't think it was kaput. The triac conducts in line with the frequency of the mains supplied to it...or sometimes a controller which varies the frequency supplied to it..to vary the speed of the motor or maybe the temperature...depending on which triac it is ? Your Victron has a specified output frequency of plus or minus one percent @ 50 Hz .which is way better than your average household supply......as long as it is within this spec ? May be worth finding someone with test gear ie...osciloscope/meter to check the actual output frequency... There is the possibility that your Victron is producing such a pure sine wave that it is creating 'beat' frequencies with the sign wave speed/temp control unt for the triac...especailly if there is only a 'boat' earth and not a household earth to help screen invertor frequencies from being superimposed on the internal electronics of the machine... That being the case...it may be unsolvable..other than changing to a less sophisticated washing machine... May be worth keeping all mains cables well away from the machine...and checking all earths... That's my five peneth work. Bob