nb Innisfree

Having used a Remoska and a halogen cooker the latter gets our vote, though neither is really practical for a boat due to it's power consumption.

Keep the speed down past moored boats.

Best solution is a mass piss up.

Tasty..

Though a booster aerial on the roof gives a small increase in signal quality I find the main advantage is not needing to swap the dongle from one side of boat to the other.

And they ramp the load up gradually + they will mimic whatever waveform they're receiving. A pretty foolproof bit of kit.

Doesn't that depend on having internet allowance on your phone contract? Too pricey with PAYG.

If you don't sell the boat for 5 years you are only required to have a Boat Safety Certificate.

That's my conclusion as well, our Mikuni is trouble free now we have ULSD. Eberspacher seem to be ok in road vehicles but not in boats and really the only difference seems to be fuel quality particularly the absence of sulphur in DERV. Mikuni advertise as being suitable for red diesel but my experience is different, they say red diesel, not gas oil, which is what boaters have had to use in the past. Besides I can't see how a Mikuni can run on red when Eberspacher can't, after all the combustion process works on the same principle.

Mine didn't! But then in my case I was able to see that it didn't make any difference to my probs, it runs fine now on ULSD.

Reading your other post I believe you have 4x 110 a/h of batts? so on that assumption don't forget 9 amps is based on your batts still having their full capacity left, they will gradually but inevitably reduce and fully charged current will reduce accordingly.

Yes the rudder does reduce the helix veering off to one side when in forward, but as the swim is very close to the prop I would think when in reverse the same thing applies but even more so, dividing the helix in half before it has a chance to veer. I just get the impression that propwalk is too subtle an effect to be totally responsible for the apparent readiness of a heavy narrowboat to veer off in reverse but less so in forward, ok I know we automatically correct it with rudder but it still seems to me to be more subtle an efect in forward. I suppose the one way to prove it would be to make a working model with the bottom plate extended to match the counter so stopping the helix escaping underneath.

We have a BMV monitor and I spent ages mucking about with various settings in an attempt to get an accurate percentage reading and in the end gave it up as a bad job relying instead on amps and volts to give me some idea of state of charge. Sorry but shunt based monitors are ok as voltmeters and ammeters but apart from that are a pain in the arse.

Fuel shutoff valve

Sorry, valve terminology malfunction! All valves are manual, if diverter valve is set to direct coolant away from engine then bypass valve can be opened and isolating valve closed which will isolate the engine from the CH circuit allowing engine and CH to work independantly. Advantages are either can be worked on while the other runs as normal + engine will reach operating temp quicker if Mikuni isn't used to preheat it. Having said that engine warms up quite quickly in the summer but in very cold weather we either preheat it (doesn't need glow plugs - engine then reaches operating temp in a just a few minutes) or isolate it and let it warm up as normal. Preheating engine is very nice in the depths of winter, much kinder to all those parts whirling around.

Yes expansion and header on same circuit, runs unpressurized mainly because I didn't have a suitable tank and also didn't want very hot water under pressure in radiators, not necessary just my choice. Bypass valve is manual, if we want engine preheat, valve is positioned to divert hot Mikuni coolant through engine then returned to original position when engine is started, engine them carries on circulating coolant with assistance of Mikuni pump. When coolant reaches a certain temp Mikuni cuts out leaving it's pump running, if Mikuni isn't used for preheat then engine coolant pump does the circulating. One drawback is the engine takes longer to warm up as it is circulating coolant through calorifier and/or rads + Mikuni though valves can be set so that engine is isolated from Mikuni and rads but coolant can still circulate as normal. As in previous post we run it un-pressurized but that is just my choice.

Red diesel? What price?

While in dry dock last week I had to pump the whole contents of the greaser before new stuff appeared at the prop end, so be generous with the greaser.

This is the single coil setup I worked out, been working ok for a few years now, we can preheat engine with Mikuni in the winter.

??

On second thoughts I think maybe about even distribution above and below waterline. I estimate just over half of weight above WL with an empty ballasted nb (22-23" draught) Fuel tank contents will be mostly above WL and full water tank will be about 50/50 so that leaves fittings and engine which will leave just over half below WL? ETA: We have 3mm cabin sides and roof and notice a marked difference in stability when stepping a board a 4mm cabin, I reckon we save about 7cwt with 3mm cabin. Shouldn't this thread be in the unSTABLE BAR?

It would be ok if it was an aluminium hull, regularly blacking a holding tank doesn't fill me with enthusiasm. Many boats have a HT made from mild steel with an 'inspection' hatch. Hatch is supposed to enable blacking but how it would be properly cleaned prior to this is beyond me.

Ignoring any ingress of water and just considering the stability. Imagine an average modern nb on it's side with the baseplate vertical, most of the weight would be in the baseplate and ballast and assuming ballast is secure then the boat would regain it's normal attitude. It would take a lot of stuff on the roof to overcome this, very unlikely IMO.

Although it can take 24 hours or more for charge rate to bottom out, when charge rate has reduced to 2% of batt capacity it is considered fully charged but I believe Smartgauge works on 0.5%. So I would say 2% is a practical figure for day to day use but 0.5% or less indicates a true full charge. Of course as battery capacity is constantly reducing trying to guess it is a bit of a shot in the dark anyway. We have roughly 40-50% of original capacity of 960ah left and we do an occasional 8hr absorption which reduces to about 5amp which is about 1% though if we leave it on shorepower with the Victron for a few days it can go as low as 0.2 amp. ETA: Best leave it to Smartgauge.

But only with a ball, not someone's head...