dr pepper

Just gone back and read your post again, I was going to delete the following as its just a ramble, as I completely misunderstood your post, but I'll leave it anyhow for anyone thats interested. Not really sure what you are asking, do you have an existing engine that will not start, or have you uncovered an old engine and are wondering how to get it going. To remove air from the system you can loosen any 2 of the injector pipes, turn the engine over and then when any bubbles stop and clean fuel comes out, tighten the unions whilst the engine is still turning over, before you do this you need to fill up the fuel filter and bleed the pre transfer section of the pump, you need to look at the book, I dont know how you do this on the vw, that said its probably just a bleed screw but you do need to know which one it is. A good test for air is feel the steel injector lines by hand whislt cranking the engine, if theres any air in them you wont feel anything, if there isnt you'll feel a positve whap each time the pump sequences that injector. There will be a pump alignment mark somewhere on the pump or sometimes theres a bracket with a mark on it, if someones been fiddling its probably miles out, you'll need a special gadget to re-set the timing, you can sometimes reset the timing using the 'gooseneck' method, but thats not recommended. hope this helps.

Interesting conversation. Slightly off topic however the ignition pulse spikes causing problems with other gear can be reduced by using a torroid core, a doughnut shape thing, if you wrap the supply cable 5 times round one end, and then 5 times in the opposite direction on the other end as close to the oven as you can get this will reduce the noise problem, I have not done this on an oven ignition but I've done it on bilge pumps, a microwave, marine vhf and a few others. CPC stock the cores. As for your wiring, make sure the cables will carry the fault current, Ie the current capacity of the cable needs to be that of the breakers, or preferably the breaker *1.4.

The previous owners of my bucket had a keel cooler fitted, as the bmc had the same issues as yours. You say you have a disused tank, is it a steel hull, ie is the tank a skintank?, or is it just a header tank. Theres a couple of things you could do, one expensive and one not so expensive, you could fit a heat exchanger and pump which would not need a fine filter just a rough strainer, or you could replace your filter with a duplex filter, a thingy with 2 filters and a changeover valve, you throw the valve and lift out one filter whilst the other one is in use, and clean it at leisure, might be a better idea for you. The one I saw was made by Hayward filtration. You are fortunate in some ways having the bmc, if it was a japanese job you'd be replacing the head gasket by now, not that the japs are naff, they just arnt over engineered like the leyland. Hope this helps.

Hi chaps, does anyone still have and use a cb radio, I have been interested in cb for a while, there are a few of us on the lancaster that have rigs and talk to each other. cheap hand held pmr446 seemed to have taken over, only by comparison they are useless, my standard legal cb gets 25 miles or more reliably instead of 200 meters.

BSL sell various gasket materials on rolls, chandlers as advised is probably better though.

Hi, Yep a non isolated alty would mean you'd have to connect domestic and engine batt negatives together, not an issue if you dont have mains aboard, and your charging arrangements are ok with it. If your fairly handy, it might be feasible to mod an existing alty to isolated return.

Further thinking on this project, I had planned on a forced combustion air fan, however further testing shows there is plenty of heat from this thing and force air is not required. So my intention at the moment is to weld in a secondary air tube, as this will nearly eliminate smoke from the chimney, this could be usefull in the marina were fires are frowned upon because of the smoke. I aquired a fan for the forced air, and modified the same for variable speed, now I think I will fit this behind the stove to blow warm air radiating from the rear of the stove into the cabin space.

did you get your tub moving again?.

re hydraulics, pumps and motors are very expensive, if you need any work to either of these its better to approach a hydraulic company for parts and service, (a couple of prop hyd drives I've seen use standard parker industrial reversible motors) hedley hydraulics, berendsen, wyko etc. Pirtek hydraulics have a fleet of vans and will come out and replace hoses on the spot if you need one.

Its a diesel, fires and gas fridges are not allowed with a petrol. My intention is to form a 'c' around the stove with stainless steel, and then a layer of 12" slate tiles to protect from excess heat. dont know whether to put the stainless on top of the tiles to reflect the infra red.

very interesting, and believe it or not I had not found any of these sites before I built mine I wish I had. Some interesting ideas, like the combustion air inlet tube, that would have been a good idea on mine. the gas bottle stove is rough and ready, highly effective, but not the sort of thing I'd want in my tub, and its much bigger, the one I built is a little dude, once its been blacked and had a door catch fitted, it'll look a little more aesthetic. The hot pod is sort of cool, well hot, a little over accentuated like the price, if I pinch a couple of ideas from each and mod mine I'll end up with something perfect for mi tub and looking cool, and mostly it will have cost - nowt.

Thats not a bad idea either, I'd never thought of anything like that. This is much smaller than a 15kg bottle though, its only 8" round bi 14" tall, however I could have used a 4.5 kg gas bottle, it would have required a bit of messing to get it to look nice though, still your mounting feet are sorted.

Yep 2" seems fine for the chimney, I test fired the thing and all the charcoal was burnt away. A hinged door would have been better yes, engineering capabilities were limited at the time. I'd have to guess at the capacity and say 2Kw. I didnt know stoves could produce co, I do have an explosive gas/co alarm anyway. Kids - eek.

stove fired and works great, all 10 pieces of charcoal were fully burnt and lasted 4 hours, and boiled a pan of water in a few minutes. i'm thinking about a heat exchanger made fom copper pipe to heat the hot water. no more cold nights at the boozer.

sounds like maybe some of the cack that blocked one of the tanks has got through to the engine. try bleeding the pump and injectors, theres a screw or 2 screws on the side of the pump that you loosen and then operate the lift pump by hand, then when thats done you loosen off any two of the injector pipes and crank the engine until clean fuel comes out, ie no foam air-fuel. I dont know where the bleed screws are on the 2.8's engine, the manual will tell you if you have one, otherwise you'll have to wait untill someone else comes along who's familiar with the motor, like maybe tony. dont undo any screws on the pump unless your sure, and keep away from easy start. A crude test for the heaters is to look at the ignition light as you turn the key from 'ignition' to 'preheat', the light should dim somewhat, or if you have a volt meter the meter should drop a couple of volts, this will only tell you that one or more of the plugs is working however.

Not sure about whether yours will be a stock item and available over the counter, if not an engineering firm, if you can find one these days, will make you a new shaft, and probably bearings, I'm sure someone will be along soon to mention numbers and names of suppliers.

thats actually a fenner 25 to 1 reduction box, and the handwheel and bracket is part of the same job, its going to be an aid to tipping a bath full of hot polymer. the only two kelvins i know is the temperature scale from absolute zero, and the other is a set of test leads for a kind of multimeter.

Yep of course that is a good idea, I still have to arrange the damper thingy, I'm on with that in a moment as the boss just went home. I'm going to fill the thing right up with charcoal, arrange a temporary chimney open the damper and let it go, and if it melts I spose I need to go back to the drawing board. I read somewhere on the net, but cant find it now about someone else who had made a similar thing to this, and reckoned it worked well, and was fuel efficient.

Well being cold on my plastic cruiser, and being bored at work this week, I made one of these. There is no firebrick insulation so the paint will burn. The stove still needs a damper making. The intended fuel is barbecue charcoal, allthough I might try coal as well. Anyone seen one of these ready made, I have not except the bergco stainless steel job at silly pennies, this ones made from junk, a piece of sprinkler pipe, a couple of bits of rsj, 3/8" plate, and some alltread for the grate. My tub is a centre cockpit, so I need to work out where to put this thing without being a fire risk and using the heat for both cabins, and then theres the chimney which is a length of car exhaust.

I fancied one of these a while back, there is someone still making them, or was a few years back, caracraft I think. a good idea, however probably a nightmare in the wind with the surface area at the side.

cpc will sell you one of these for just under 50 quid, theres a bit of controversy over these whether they work or not, I tried a diy version, it worked on one battery, but failed to revive the other. a car indicator bulb is a good test for someone without a degree, an exact voltage is one thing, but a glow or dim glow is a good test, and left on for a few minutes can show up surface charge problems, something that a didital meter will not. this is the link to the site: http://cpc.farnell.com/BT03665/batteries-p...le-energy-65512

Thans guys, had a good response this time. I need to aquire an injector then, or borrow one of one off the guys at the marina, I have a spare dpa pump. the 1.5 and 1.8 injectors are diffo, I have the 1.8 and they are physically bigger, the glow plugs are diffo to. Your explanation is professional Tony, heres a couple of pictures of the pintaux if anyone else is interested, which by the sound of it they are. I'll be messing again this weekend, and I will get this manky bmc to run well. P.S. I've been building a boat stove, its nearly done, I'll be posting details when finished.

yep, they all have pintles, and it sounds like i need to get them cleaned. might try the ultrasound tank back at the shop, with some clean diesel. i have a programmable strobe on loan which is cool, you can 'slow down' the engine to a crawl, very interesting to look at one of the injectors and varying the strobe, looks like a slo mo replay, cant see the auxilliary, probably because its not working.

shell launa according to the manual for the bmc tractor engine, which is similar.