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Colin Smith

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Everything posted by Colin Smith

  1. Hi, I sent in (and they received) my BW License application 5 weeks ago. It's a new boat and first time application. All the docs were correct and having telephoned them twice, I was told that it "takes a week to put it on the system", then " a couple of weeks to process it", then "we have to check out your mooring". They have given me the license number verbally but I've still not had anything back from them in writing and/or the bit of paper. Is this the norm for BW? Should I be getting on the telephone and complaining yet? Thanks, Colin
  2. This (amongst many other) is a well known problem with Orange. Most of the servers they use for outgoing email have been blocked to some extent by many other service providers because of spamming - a lot of the Indian and Ghanaian spammers 'bounce' their rubbish through Orange/Wanadoo/Freeserve servers. In fact one of the main service providers in the US has blacklisted almost all Orange servers! Orange have done a bit of a knee-jerk to try and cut down the spam but it's all a bit pear-shaped. When I used Orange as a service provider I had a lot of problems with (legitimate) emails I was sending to customers, being bounced back or 'failed to send'. The main issue is that Orange don't let you use alternative smtp server addresses (the 'outgoing' mail servers). They won't even admit there is a problem but it is a massive issue! Check out the following link if you want a laugh! http://www.orangeproblems.co.uk However, there is a solution to most outgoing mail problems with Orange and some other service providers. It's called "authsmtp". This service is very cheap and authenticates you the sender and prevents your emails being 'blocked'. I've been using their service for about 5 years now and never had a problem - no matter which service provider I've been with. If you do have problems with emails being blocked - via Orange or anyone else it may be worth you checking out the service from authsmtp: http://www.authsmtp.com Colin BTW, I don't have any relationship with authsmtp other than being a customer!
  3. Hi, You could try these: http://www.goodridge.net/uk/index.htm We use them for motorsport stuff but they seem to be able to get anything! Colin
  4. Hi, We looked at them - these are my views from my notes during my research: Positives: nicely fitted out with some good ideas; Quality internal trim and fittings. Hi spec domestic appliances, TV etc. Nice windows, Nice Paint. Negatives: Expensive; For living on board - the heating system is useless (search on Webasto etc on this site); Electricals Ok but you'd need shore-power; Small tank for fresh water (500lts); Very small black water tank (180lts) = lots of pump-outs! Engine power to small for the hull. Roof only 4mm steel. My opinions only...! There's an interesting thread on the forum about the structure/build of this type of shell and also engine power. http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=20518 We went for a Barrus 65hp as a good compromise between power/economy/price. It also came with decent alternators - a 50Amp for starter and 160Amp for the domestic side. I believe the Isuzu comes with an 80 and 110Amp. We also went for lead-acid deep-cycle 6volt batteries to give 566Ah total capacity (1200cycles @ 50%DOD) with an automatic watering system. I believe that this is a much better solution for a live-aboard and cost me less than a load of 'leisure' batteries. Our hull has a long swim and handles very well (without a bow-thruster) and we have hydraulic steering. We have a 760ltr fresh water tank and 800ltr black water tank. The roof and structure were very important because we wanted it to be strong enough to party on - so 5mm with closely spaced box-steel bearers - better than 4mm. We took some ideas from the Metrofloat for our interior. However, try not to get too carried away with what you see on the surface but look at the detail underneath - especially the steelwork, structure, welding etc. Any good builder would be able to create the space and style that you want but not many produce the quality of shell that surrounds it and keeps it all dry!! Our plan is to finish off our barge and live on her until next spring. Then to take her to France (by truck - I'm not brave!). She will be our home for good so she has to be a fully functioning live-aboard. In my opinion, you could do a lot better without spending that sort of budget! Colin
  5. In my (very) humble opinion - and I'm not a marine engineer, Gary is abaolutely correct. I've seen widebeam shells that look like they'd been made from Meccano! If we'd have had the budget then I'd have gone with a single-chine design similar to boats produced by Ledgard Bridge. Our builder offered a similar design and a full 'dutch barge' style solution but the additional cost was prohibitive for us. By the way, I made an error with our specs - we have a 12mm baseplate not 10mm! The solution for us was a flat-bottom shell properly designed for the job. There was a lot of attention paid to the internal structure with quite closely spaced and substantial scantlings. The hull sides were folded at the gunwhale and mostly one-piece steel, extending almost the full length of the hull. The deckhead (roof) bearers are rolled box steel and also closely spaced. I wanted something with just a shallow curve to it so we can party up there when the weathers good! I have a book of calculations and full RCD compliance list supplied and signed by the builder together with the cad drawings etc. I'd recommend anyone thinking about buying to concentrate on the detail - the welding, testing, hydostatics, steel quality etc. For example, look very closely at the rubbing strakes - are they fully welded top and bottom? how substantial is the skeg/rudder mounting? What is the spacing of the scantlings? Check out the thickness of the steel used for the scantlings, roof supports, engine beds and bulkheads etc. It's easy to get carried away with a nice looking, painted and fitted boat but get into the grubby bits and look at a shell in production first. I think you'll find that there are probably less than 5 or 6 boat builders who could produce a well designed and excecuted widebeam at a sensible price - at least that's what I found after 5 years of looking! Colin
  6. Hi Cal, After 5 years of looking and research (yep 5 years!), we hooked up with a fantastic builder who has built our dream at a cost that was less than a decent 2nd-hand one without compromising on quality etc. Our budget was very low so I decided to do some of the finishing work myself - which helped keep the costs under control. I'm reasonably handy but have little time (or inclination) to get too involved so all the major stuff has been done - wiring, most of the fit-out etc etc. She's a 57ft x 11ft barge with a good spec (10, 6, 5, 5 steelwork, Barrus 65Hp engine). There are some pictures on Flickr at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/synibex The builders are marine engineers based in the north west who build off-shore stuff as well as river/canal barges and narrowboats. The whole process was superb and we were involved from the very start with the designer who worked with us to give us exactly what we wanted - and the price was better than our other short-listed builders! There's an awful lot of things to think about but I'd advise you to concentrate on the shell firstly ie. the detail of it. I'm from a motorsport background so had/have pretty high standards when it comes to welding and testing. I couldn't believe what absolute garbage some builders think is acceptable. For example "we'd send a chap down at the launch with some welding gear in case there are any leaks"......"we've never had more than one or two leaks on a new boat".....!!! These comments were form some well known and "respectable" builders (not Ledgard Bridge I hasten to add - excellent company, superb product but way out of our price bracket - sorry :-)) The company that we went with are rock-solid financially (I checked thoroughly) and have a great team of people. Their designer spent a lot of time with us refining our ideas and came up with some great things to help us get what we wanted and stay within our very limited budget. I'm not sure if I can say who they are on an open forum (advertising rules?) but if you PM me, I'd be happy to pass on their details. Our barge is based near Chester so it may be well out of your way but you'd be welcome to have a look at her anytime. Good look with your search! Colin
  7. Hi Nick, That's a pretty good price for the Trojans and tempting. I understand that their UK disty (Energy Battery Company) has stopped trading and one or two other distys are looking into taking it on. I'm going to stick with the US250HC's. They have a higher capacity (566Ah) which fits my requirement and I can also get the deal with the watering system which I think is a no brainer for this type of setup (I'm all for making life easy!!!). I'm in the UK in Huddersfield. My business is based in the Seychelles but distribute in 60 countries including the UK. My barge is on the Shroppie near Chester! Colin
  8. Hi Nick, Those Trojan prices are way better than I could find but are you sure thay were for the T125 and not the T105? - I was quoted £132 for T105's! The cycle rates for the US250HC's are virtually the same as the Trojans - about 1200 cycles at 50% DoD (% of 20Ah capacity). The supply side of things is a little complicated......They do have a retailer in the UK - tayna.co.uk. They don't have the US250HC listed but do quote the standard 250 (which is not the high-capacity version) at £179 each. However, I'm getting some with the watering system through my business (hence the price). We're also negotiating a deal to sell the watering systems in the UK. I've been very impressed by them because they produce both manual and fully automated watering systems that can be retro-fitted to most lead-acid batteries. As soon as I've finalised the pricing for these, I'll be getting the order placed for the systems and the batteries. PM me if you want more info. Regards, Colin
  9. Hi All, Having done a bit of research for a decent battery pack for the barge, I've been comparing the Trojan's with similar products. I decided to go with 6volt 'wet' cells and have just done a deal for these: http://www.usbattery.com/usb_us250hcxc.html They compare well with the Trojans and give better performance £ for £. They are well known in the US (we use them for power in the pits and in the motorhome/workshop/awning - I'm involved in motorsport) and the main competitor to Trojan. Here's the specs: Trojan T125: 240 Ah@20Hr: 132 Mins @75amps: 488 Mins @25amps: 264L x 181W x 276H: 30Kgs US250HC: 283 Ah@20Hr: 178 Mins @75amps: 636 Mins @25amps: 295L x 181W x 295H: 35.4Kgs In my case the batteries are to be installed under the wheelhouse floor so removal of gas when under charge and watering is an issue. The gassing has been solved with an automatic fan and vent. Solved the watering 'problem' with a remote watering system which also cuts down on the gas emissions when they're on charge. With the auto watering system, this could be a setup that could fit into the confines of a narrowboat too? This system is by Flow-Rite (again from the US but not the one sold by US Battery). The best price I could find for the Trojans was £159 each, the US Batterys are costing me £149.00 each delivered to the door so 40 quid less for the bank. I'd be interested in views and also if anyone has found anything better/similar that would give a decent capacity/life expectancy? Colin
  10. 8 Weetabix and lots of grunting Seriously though, they weigh in at about 10kgs each more than a 'noddy' leisure battery but you'd need 6 of them to give similar capacity so overall it's not too bad! Worth the aggro for a decent power I think! Colin
  11. Hi All, I've just done a deal for these: http://www.usbattery.com/usb_us250hcxc.html 4 x 6volt deep-cycle lead acid batteries to give me 566Ah. They are well known in the US (we use them for power in the pits and in the motorhome/workshop/awning - I'm involved in motorsport) and the main competitor to Trojan. Got the lot for £580 delivered to the door. Solved the watering 'problem' with a remote watering system which also cuts down on the gas emissions when they're on charge. These are industrial beesties and out perform the Trojans like-for-like! Colin
  12. Mine's a 57' x 11'. Wanted something a little different but not enough budget for a replica Dutch Barge. The result was moving the bedroom forward to take up some of what would have been a welldeck. This meant that I could get an 11' long bedroom, big bathroom, decent galley and saloon. By adding a large wheelhouse (which will double as a day room/office) it's enabled a big fresh-water tank and a lot of equipment to go under the floor. Still managed to get a 7'6" long "cruiser" stern for the odd day when it's sunny enough to sit outside!! Not sure how to post pics but there's quite a few on Flickr at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/synibex There's quite a bit to do yet but this will include a hydraulic (up/down) roof on top of the wheelhouse and a decent stern rail with seating etc. Cheers! Colin
  13. Hi Kay, Have you looked at the Alde 3010 compact? We've spent a lot of time looking into heating systems for a new 57ft x 11ft barge. There won't be any other form of heating (no stove) so reliability and running costs were important in finding the best solution. I was put off the Webasto, Mikuni and the like because of the problems that seem to crop up with anything other than occasional use - something that I've not only read about on here but also through talking to owners up and down the cut. Cost was another issue. Although the product prices are similar, the Alde worked out cheaper to run at current fuel prices and all the indications are that diesel will increase in cost over the long term faster than LPG. The 3010 is a lot more economical than the previous/other models they do and are pretty easy to fit. I also found Alde to be very helpful and honest about realistic service intervals/costs. The downside (possibly) for you would be the need to change the calorifier to a stainless steel one (you can't use copper in the system). If you need any more info, costings etc, drop me a PM. I'd be happy to share! Regards, Colin
  14. Hi Terry, Thank you for your comments. I've sent you a PM regarding this! Cheers, Colin
  15. Hi all, Am new to the site so apologies for jumping in on this one!! Please excuse the preamble but it may help qualify my questions! I’m in the middle of having a new barge built and the heating/hot water specification is now on the agenda. I’ll be living and working on the barge full time so I need a reliable and cost effective solution. Having scanned all of the ‘heating’ threads and followed the Webasto/Eberspächer trials and tribulations on here, I’ve been researching to look for alternatives. This has brought up a number of things all of which have contributed greatly to my confusion and dalliance on making any decisions! It strikes me that all of these units (Webasto, Eberspächer & Mikuni) have similar problems – especially when used for prolonged periods. I’ve also looked at the Hurricane which seems better suited and the Kabola which many people on the cut have made very positive comments about. However, the running costs of a Diesel-fired unit also seem very expensive. At an average of 0.8ltr/hour, for a lot of the time I’ll be using around 5lts a day – maybe more in the depths of winter. So that works out at anything from £2.90-£3.28 per day! This leads me to my first questions: Can anyone give a ‘real’ cost of running a Diesel fired unit and (this is the killer bit) has anyone found a reliable Diesel unit? If so, what? Whilst researching, I’ve also been looking at the relatively new Alde Compact 3010 LPG boiler. Based on the consumption figures from Alde and my own usage estimates, this seems to come out at about £1 per day cheaper to run! Granted there are the safety issues with LPG and humping the bottles about but I have space for 4 x 13Kg bottles (approx 28 days worth). Next questions: Is anyone using the Alde Compact 3010 and if so what has been the experience so far? Just returning to the thread for a moment, I’m involved in motorsport and contaminated fuel is the single biggest killer of engines – or at least the performance. We filter ALL our fuel to take out contaminants and water droplets. When fuel is left stored in tanks – especially for a while like, I suspect, most canal-side fuel bunkers – condensation, rust and general muck will contaminate the fuel. All nicely stirred up when it’s pumped into your tank! So, I’ll be using one of our filters (It’s a big funnel with a special filter in it) which removes all contaminants and water droplets, whenever I fill up. Fuel also 'goes off' after a few weeks of storage and doesn't perform as well - I expect that this applies to Diesel as it does to Petrol. I understand from the answers and comments on here that the sulphur content of ‘Red’ seems to be the killer of the Webasto units (and others) but if they are supposed to run on ‘Red’ could other contaminates be exacerbating the situation? Thanks, Colin
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