Colin Smith

DO IT!!! I walked from a six-figure income and an 'extravagant' life-style 9 years ago. It took some adjusting to and I had to give up lots of toys but boy, it teaches you what life is really about. Look to your own talents and interests to do something that may generate a little income. The web is a great place for a small business with low costs. Even though I've had some daft offers to go back to what I was doing, I'd never go back. There is nothing better than waking up in the morning a free man and deciding just what you want to do with your day. I've never been happier or healthier. Good luck!! Colin

Ok, my ignoramus take on all this…….So, providing the equipment (pumps etc) meet the standard, we can assume that there will be some protection but not remove the possibility that something else may cause a ‘spike’ that could take out or shorten the life of LED bulbs (or should that be lamps?). Therefore, the only safe way to go would be to: 1. Protect the bulbs themselves (as in the bedazzled units) 2. Protect the circuit to which they are attached (and route the cables as far away as possible from other (pump) cables). 3. Add protection to all devices installed (I guess that is all pumps, fridge and other motors – I have some linear activators). 1. The ‘protected’ bulbs are three times the price of a typical G4 SMD 8-30v LED and if you have a lot (I have 58) it gets very expensive. 2. Seems to me that you can only get devices that will handle up to 1amp max and there may be voltage-drop issues with them. 3. Is this possible and if so, what is required? I suppose I’m looking for a solution that is an alternative to spending an additional £250 on bulbs! Thanks, Colin

OK, forgive my utter ignorance but it seems to me that providing the charging equipment is correctly set up ie. Charging at max 14.4v (for sealed lead-acid batteries) and my LED’s are rated at 8-30v that should be OK. The problem is when/if another device (water pump for example) switches, it may cause a ‘spike’ that could be at a higher voltage which in turn could damage the LED’s if they are switched on. So, either each LED or the circuit that they are connected to needs to be protected from the ‘spike’ or the device (water pump) needs something to absorb the ‘spike’ so it doesn’t dump the higher voltage up the line? I am aware that there are voltage regulators that can be fitted to circuits but these all seem to be limited to 1amp max and may/may not include a ‘transient spike suppressor’. I’m also aware of the LED’s supplied by some vendors that are individually fitted with ‘transient spike suppressors’. The problem with a voltage regulator is that in my case, some of the LED circuits will draw more than 1amp and it’s impractical to re-wire everything to make smaller, individual circuits to which a 1amp regulator could be fitted. The individual regulated and spike suppressed LED’s are more than three times the cost of those I can get. (I have 58 LED fittings in my barge not to mention LED nav lights etc!) So, it seems to me that the easiest and most cost-effective solution would be to add a ‘passive device’ to any item that could potentially cause a ‘spike’ – water pump, heating pump, toilet macerator pump, shower and bilge pumps etc. If that is the case, what should be fitted? My guess is that it will depend on the nature of each device so how would you work out what type of device and its rating/spec? Of course I could have this totally wrong! Thank you for your advice and guidance! Colin

Just found your post while looking at LED lighting posts in general. Although an electrical/electronic novice, it seems to make sense to me that adding a spike suppressor to a potential source (pumps etc) would be easier to sort out to prevent possible damage to LED bulbs. So, could you please explain firstly, how to calculate the required capacitor and also how this would be fitted - for example on a water pump? Thanks, Colin

I understand the paranoia!! I have an 800ltr tank with a take-off near the bottom. My tank is located under the wheelhouse floor so I've put in a big Bilge Pump and switch next to it - won't do much good if the thing fractures badly but if it starts to leak, I'm hoping that the pump will reduce the water swilling about. I've also got one of these: http://www.celectron.co.uk So at least I'll know something was going on before I lift the floor!! Colin

I got ally plates with my license when I first registered the barge - don't remember having to pay for them. Give BW a ring before you part with any money - you may find that you get them automatically! Colin

I've used it. Had an old Jeep Cheroke 4Lt which sprang a leak in the Rad - it was using about 1/2lt water every day. I put the K-Seal in and it stopped the leak (it was a fracture where the radiator matrix joined the side-walls of the rad). Ran like that for another 14,000 miles without a problem. In fact I forgot all about it. Sold the Jeep on about two years ago (I did tell the new owner but he wasn't bothered). As far as I know, it' still running pulling a horse box somewhere!! Colin

Gem Marine Services design, build and maintain bespoke steel boats to any level, to any category including Narrowboats, Barges, Replica Dutch Barges and Steel Cruisers. Full details on the website: http://www.narrowboatbuilders.co.uk

Thanks Jill. Have checked out Super Isol and added it to my 'components' list! Thanks Phil, Seems you're happy with the Glembring! I know the Kabola has a good reputation but it's good to hear from someone who has the Glembring. The price difference is not insignificant and I can't work out what, if any difference there is between the Glembring and the 'Old Dutch' other than the aesthetics. Hmm, food for thought - thank you. The pressure-jet from Kabola would be the ideal choice and I could fit it out of the way so wouldn't loose any interior space - but the initial outlay is a bit eye-watering. I am on a budget and although I could go for one, it would mean less money to spend on other 'essentials'. Guess I'll have to crunch some numbers and see where that leaves me. Thank you for helping with my thought process!! Thanks Colin, I've downloaded the program and will be checking my measurements over the weekend then running the calculation. It'll be interesting to see what comes out!! Thank you to all of you for taking the time to respond. It is a great help! Colin

Air Draft = 8' 3" wheelhouse up, 6' 2" down or there abouts. Internal headroom will be about 6' 4". Not finished it yet so it may change a little! One-piece roof raising/lowering on 4 x hydraulic rams with a hatch over the helm. The windows all hinge down with the exception of the door tops which are on lift-off hinges. Opening sequence. 3, 4, 8 and 9 are also removeable if required. 6 and 7 (the door tops) are on lift off hinges. The front screen is also supported by gas rams due to the weight. The main frame of the roof is constructed of Iroko timber. The top is clad with 4mm WPB ply onto which is bonded 4mm Trovidur® ESA-D (an external grade PVC). Internally the roof will be finished with ply sandwiching a thick layer of Urethane insulation. The roof will have a hatch over the helm position and will raise/lower on hydraulic rams. In hot weather the roof can remain up whilst the windows can be folded down. With the rear doors opening back almost 180', it will be possible to open up the whole wheelhouse/rear deck area. In wet weather, the wheelhouse can be lowered, protecting the interior from the rain, with only the helmsman getting a bit wet!! Under construction! There are some more photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/synibex Colin

Firstly, I have been trying to find a heat loss calculator on the web that is specific to boats without any luck. I can find plenty of house calculators but does anyone know if there is one more suitable? A belt & braces calculation suggests that to heat my 57 x 11 barge I'll need around 8Kw but I could be a mile out here??!! I was originally going to go with an Alde 3010 (c. 7+ Kw max) but with rising fuel costs and the prospect of humping 4 x 13Kg bottles about, am having second thoughts now So, am investigating the Glembring heater and the Kabola (with heating coils). I have enough space to add a large tank so I may be able to use domestic heating oil which should keep the running costs down and the Glembring is a much less expensive option - even allowing for a tank etc. http://www.glembring.se/eng/index.htm Does anyone have a Glembring? If so what do you think of it?? Please, before anyone mentions a wood/solid fuel burner - I have ruled that out completely! Thanks, Colin

If you just need power for fitting out, forget 2 x Honda eu20i's - superb items but they will cost you a small fortune to buy with the lpg conversion kits etc. I'm fitting out my barge and got a cheapo 6.5kva "Silent" petrol genny which I run on the bank with an extension lead to the boat. It powers the chop saw, router, drill etc without any problems and a small hoover. The genny cost me £320. I have had to replace an AVR, which cost £16 but other than that, been dead reliable. Remember that many power tools need a lot more power to get them going than their rating. A general rule of thumb that works for me is whatever the power rating, multiply by 3 and see if your genny will cope. For example, my hoover is 1500Watt. So would require a 4500Watt genny to run it. As it is, my 6500Watt will do it but struggles if I try and use anything else at the same time. Like you, when I've more funds available and the fitout is nearing completion, I'll fit a diesel genset onboard but why spend lots on something that is a temporary measure? Colin

Hi Nik, Just seen your post so am probably a bit late....guess you're now on your way!! I'm going over there now and will keep an eye out for you. Got a kettle and coffee!! Mine's the big blue thing you'll pass at the start of the moorings Colin

I can honestly say that I've never met a nicer bunch of people than those who frequent the canal. Over the last year that I've had my barge, everyone gives a wave or passes pleasantries as the go by. Many have shown a genuine interest in how my build is progressing as they pass by every few weeks uttering words of encouragement etc. With the exception of the operators of a new marina nearby who were rude, arrogant and unhelpful (no wonder the place is so empty), every moment I’ve had on the cut has been an absolute joy. Maybe it’s because we all share the magical thing about being on a boat in beautiful countryside and we’ve all had our fair share of minor disasters, technical difficulties etc – there’s a common bond? Whilst we all have different opinions about all sorts of things, there does seem a real intention to help out when it comes to boats – just look at the response to questions on this forum. There will always be exceptions – that’s life – but perhaps we’re all of an age that were brought up with some morals, decency, honesty and dare I say, good manners? I’m sure that most would help out if they came across someone in difficulty on the canal and I’m sure there will be a few who won’t, can’t, or don’t know what to do but one day they will need help and if it comes their way, maybe they’ll do the same from then on. Rose-tinted view? Maybe but so what Colin

I got one of these: http://www.aquafax.co.uk/html/product_details.asp?ID=21574 Johnson Pump AquaT Standard. Ceramic bowl, good quality seat. Comes with an integral Johnson macerator, 12v solenoid valve, control panel and 'outlet' connectors for 25mm or 38mm pipe. Not installed it yet but it looks OK. Retails at around £340 inc vat. Colin

Ahhhh, all this talk of CB has taken me back to heady days of out-running the Post Office and Plod with my dayglo orange 'broomstick' mag-mount aerial waving about on the roof of my '57 Zephyr. In those days (c.1978/9) it was imported US AM sets with the biggest 'burner' (amp) you could hide under the seat, slide-mount for the 'rig', one-nine for a copy and DXing to chat around the world. My natural temptation would be to go 'pirate' again but no doubt the 'detectors' are a lot more sophisticated these days and my Barrus 65, plus the obvious limitations of the cut would make it damn difficult to outrun anything or anyone Progress and age dictate that I would be up for a legal FM setup and as such, will look forward to dusting down my rubber duck and purchasing a suitable setup asap!! Colin

Never heard of them myself! I did look at a number of builders when I was after mine. In the end went to Gem Marine Services. Main reasons were flexibility of design, quality of build, financial stability and price! Have a look at the following thread. There is a link to pictures of my barge (57 x 11) and you'd be welcome to have a look at it anytime. http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=28643 Good luck with your search, Colin

Hi, I haven't a clue really!! I've no idea what Fred was after for it but similar 2007 boats seem to be up for sale at brokers at anything from £65-£85k! I do know that Fred would not have spared any expense, it was his own boat, so I would have thought it would be at the top end of the spectrum? Either way, I'm sure you've got a superb boat and I know that if you wanted any bits and bobs or service work, Fred would sort you out. Regards, Colin

Thanks! I remember Sapphire! I think Fred kept her on his own mooring at the bottom of his garden. It was very well looked after. He used to get his chaps (his staff who built her) to go over it every few months and he didn't skimp on anything. I did go aboard once when I was looking at my shortlisted builders and from what I remember it was a beautiful boat. It was designed by Mariusz - Gem's designer. I saw the CAD drawings and specs when I was over at the office. I've no idea what you paid for her but I think you've probably got a bargain. Fred only sold it because his wife fancied a widebeam and he had an off-shore boat that was being re-built when I ordered mine! I've still got a lot of work to do so I envy you taking off around the system. I'm sure it will be a great adventure! Best of luck! Regards, Colin

Yes! They build narrowboats, barges, replica Dutch barges and off-shore cruisers. When I started looking I couldn't find exactly what I wanted off the shelf and ended up going around a "short list" of 5 potential builders before deciding on who to go for and what to build. Gem came out top of my list because of the attention to detail, specification, quality of build and value for money. They are also very flexible in adapting and changing things to suit your own requirements without clobbering you for ‘extras’. The whole process was superb and we were involved from the very start with the designer who worked with us to give us exactly what we wanted - and the price was lower than some of my other short-listed builders. I was encouraged to get to know the lads who were building my boat and Fred (the MD) kept me informed when I couldn’t get over there (I ‘m in Yorkshire). Also the designer was amazing and so helpful. I was also comfortable that they were financially stable (they are part of a bigger group which is involved in insurance – so heavily monitored by the FSA amongst others). My barge came in bang on time and on budget complete with a full RCD checklist, design specifications and manual. If I were in a position to want another one, I’d go straight back to Gem without any hesitation whatsoever. If you want a look at what they did for us (it's a an 'advanced-sailaway' barge that I'm finishing myself) there are some pics on: http://www.flickr.com/photos/synibex She's moored near Chester and you'd be welcome to have a look anytime. Feel free to give me a call on 020 8144 7040 or PM me. Anyway, good luck with your search! Regards, Colin

I've a complete Sterling Power solution including the Alternator to Battery Charger, ProDigital 50amp 'mains' charger, cross-over switches, 3000W PSW Inverter, Galvanic Isolator etc etc. I also have the remote monitoring options for all the devices which makes it easy to see whats going on, switch things on/off etc. Easy to install and all have performed without any problems. My basic setup (wiring sketch) is on flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/synibex The installation and operation documents are available on the download section of the Sterling website. Contrary to some peoples experience on the forum, I've had first-class support from the company who have helped with system design and answered questions fully. (might be because my business is a Sterling reseller!!!). I believe that there are some superb offerings in the market in this sector (Smartgauge, Victron, Mastervolt etc) however, with the possible exception of Smartgauge, I don't think you can get a better solution for the money. Colin

Sounds like an interesting alternative. Maybe a daft question but do you get any diesel smell from it at all? Colin

There's no doubt that hydraulic steering does take some getting used to and you don't have the dirct 'feel' of a tiller. However, I'm not sure if the fact that there is no easy visual reference has something to do with it? Also I think it's important that the whole system is designed for the purpose - correctly sized pump, ram and size/shape of the rudder. So retro-fitting may be a bit more complicated to get it right? I fitted a rudder indicator gauge because when I first moved the barge, I soon lost any idea of what position the rudder was actually in!! Since then, it's incredibly easy to steer (and correct) without any drama and it can be 'placed' accurately. My barge is 11ft wide and on the Shroppie (for now)....... some of the bridges are only 13ft wide.....haven't hit one yet even with a sidewind. Colin

Might need a bit of fettling but why not go hydraulic or mechanical cable with a small wheel instead? Depending on your stern layout, you might be able to squeeze in a small wheel and pump/gearbox. I have a Vetus setup on my barge. Hydraulic steering pump with a fairly small wheel, hydraulic ram connected to a yoke bolted to the rudder and a bypass (in case it fails so you can bypass the ram and use the tiller again). There are smaller versions than mine that may be suitable for a narrowboat rudder - or more specifically the force required to move it. Have a look at the Vetus catalogue on-line at: http://www.vetus.com (pages 161-176). The pages also include the rudder calculation to size the correct pump. You'd probably only need the basic ram and with a pump that included the pressure relief/non-return valve, your steering would be light and easy. Alternatively, a cable system such as those produced by Ultraflex (www.aquafax.co.uk under Steering and Engine Controls section) may do it. My complete Vetus system with a bigger ram (it's a 20ton barge) cost me less than £500. I got the wheel off eBay (£30.00) and had a local hydraulics place make up high-pressure stainless steel hoses - way over the top but £40 for the lot. Alternatively, a cable system such as those produced by Ultraflex (www.aquafax.co.uk under Steering and Engine Controls section) may do it. Colin