Radio-Ga-Ga

Agreed that it of interest value only and I am not certain on it, but just one little bicker The viscosity of oil is tested by passing it through a specified size hole at the standard temp of 40c or a smaller specific size at 100c there is as far as I know no other temp used to check viscosity. the wax point has nothing to do with viscosity, the formulation of the the oil and addititves determine it. saying 20w20 is not wrong its just as pointless as saying 1.0000, anyway if somebody who knows more wants to be ref fine, and if you want a final say, I'll do my best not to debate it further.

The engine revs are reduced because the engine is overloaded, like continualy driving your car uphill in too high a gear, it's likely to oveheat, and that added to the skin tank being possibly just adequate. I know its nice to have a good cruising speed at low revs, but modern engines should realy be propped so they can achieve full rpm, or at least close to it.

It seems to have gone unnoticed that you mentioned the engine is over propped, that in itself could be a significant part of the overheating problem.

I tend to think not many would know that, beause I don't think it's correct. A multigrade oil is one that has viscous properties of more than one grade of oil. A 20w/20 oil has only one grade and can only be a monograde. the W does indicate its use at low temperature (winter) but for a different reason, its wax point or pour point, in other words at the temperature where an sae 20 oil would be set due to waxing, an sae 20w oil would still be fluid. But stand to be corrected.

Agreed, I'm not sure of the spec but probably CF, I wouldn't recomend it, I was just pointing out somebody who made what was asked for. but maybe there was a mistake in the original post

Can't see it being anything other than a monograde, Morris lubricants do one, Ring Free XHD 20W Monograde 25 litre drum for about 65 quid plus vat, no idea who might stock it, but can be bought off their web site

Correct, apart from the relay choice is 16 or 30 amp on models up to 2kva and 16 or 50 amp on 3 kva models. But then Gibbo turned up and spoiled it!

Every point in this post is wrong! a multi-plus will pass through power to the limit of its relay Not to the limit of the inverter output

Rubbish! My reponse was based on using a Victron combi unit 'as it comes'... AND knowing its capabilities

This topis if full of misleading and wrong information to clarify the OPs original question - "are you limited by the kw of the inverter" No! the unit will not reduce the available shore power in any way.

Exactly the point, the Victron REDUCES its charge rate. If for instance you turn on appliances that need 16 amps the unit will stop charging until you turn something off.

0300 100 1234

Its not a silly question, seems your asking about a Victron multi-plus rather than just an inverter. The simple answer is, on shore power you have available 16 amps plus (for short periods) the inverter output. If your shore connection is more than 16 amps you can buy the multi-plus with a larger relay. The multi-plus adjusts its charge rate depending on your consumption so it never reduces the available power

The Kohler is said to have a clean output, but just to be safe buy your washer by mail order from a reputable company, you have a statutary right to a full refund for 7 days, even if you decide you just don't like it (the return is at your own cost though if not faulty) be careful removing the packaging so it can be re-packed like new.

Naw, you get a nasty smell with that!

I agree, I don't like their "the one we keep is better than the one you want" attitude!

It stops it coming back for several months, I used to have a caravan they get the same water staining, I found out then that mer just wipes it off, not long ago I repainted the sides of my boat and the same streaks appeared on the light paint I used for the name panel, They wouldn't shift with anything, got some mer and wiped them off. once cleaned I would imagine any polish or wax will keep them at bay for some time, as you intend to do coach lines I would get them off with mer but then clean with panel wipe or spirit prior to putting on the stripes.

Before you get out the T-cut or abrasive polish I'd recomend you try MER it's totaly non abrasive and usualy just wipes these black streaks off light colours, even tho detergents or even white spirit won't budge them. Edited to say: I mean the MER polish, not the shampoo

The problem with this sort of question is everybody has a different preference. I have an aquadrive and I would recomend it or a python drive which is similar. both of these relieve the gearbox of any thrust force and reduce vibration.

Yup, I realise the sides are very variable, but the base thickness (distance from floor to the inside of the tray) is not so different, except for the ones designed to incorporate the waste under the tray, but one of those would be no use in this case. On most boats there is room for a shallow trap, I fitted my tray directly on the floor, the bottom of the trap is about an inch from the base plate.

The thickness of the base of most shower trays is not that different, I suspect the tray is on a platform to allow for a fall to one of the sump type pumps as in the post above. gaining a few inches would probably mean removing the platform and fiting the tray directly on the floor, but that would need the waste running under the floor to one of the suction type shower pumps. You may have a problem with clearance for the waste depending on the type of ballast, if its brick you can take some out though a good size hole for the waste if its slab it means trying to break the slab under the waste outlet. Changing the wash basin waste to drain directly to a skin fitting should be quite easy. It's probably best to go back for another look to see exactly whats involved.

I had exactly the same problem when I was fitting out (the only time I've had shore power) my 1600 watt saw would shut down the multi-plus even tho higher wattage tools worked ok, after about 30-40 seconds the inverter would re-start. Victon suggested turning off the UPS function. No idea how, but it fixed it!

Personaly I would prefer to use a knifing stopper than filler because it doesn't absorb water if the paint gets damaged later, on a sunny day it will set very quickly and is easier to flat. The usual sequence (for me) rust treatment, primer, stopper, flat, re-prime any exposed metal, undercoat. But no doubt others do things differently.

I would go along with that view, there is bound to be a point where a dish is too directional for a boat, but tend to think a dish that size would not be realistic to fit to a narrowboat in the first place, 1 metre or more? I use a 60cm dish, and when checking the signal strength meter while the boat is being passed by other boats ect it does lose some signal but remains strong enough that the picture is never lost. How about some posts from members who have tried dishes only to find it was not up to the job? too small or too big

Don't know the set at all but sounds like it's sensing a fault. not going to be over temp but could be a faulty temp sensor, most likely is low oil or low oil pressure or faulty oil sensor, somebody who knows more about the set will probably be along with more info. Edited to add, don't hold the heater button too long to keep it running, it will burn out the glowplugs