Pot Noodle Adventurer

Hi I have a Becton Bunny stove. Reading between the lines I presume that you have recently renewed the stove rope on the ash pan door at the same time as the latch? It is always difficult at first to close the door even when the correct rope is used (10mm diameter soft rope). It seems to take a few days to bed down. Unfortunately, I am not due back on my boat until after Easter so sorry unable to get a picture to you at present. I always use Heat Mate for fixing my rope as you can achieve an instant grab with door in situ/vertical. Much less frustrating and much better than the stove rope glue supplied in the kits. As we are talking about the ash pan door rather than the main fire pit door I don't think you will have any issues if you slacken the latch off temporarily to aid venting. Hope this helps.

Ah perhaps that explains it. I think I have seen on the forum that Sterling's Customer Service is not the best ?

Hi I have two sterling desulphation units fitted, one on the starter battery and one on the domestic bank. Looking at the earlier relevant clicky link the similar units available seem cheap (in money terms) as I paid around £51 each via chandlers. Cant say how good they are just yet, but they are silent and the led when lit means they are active (they only kick in around the 12.8 volt mark). Just recently, one of the units led indicator has failed to illuminate. I emailed Sterling on monday to ascertain if there is anyway to test the unit to see if it is dead or just the led bulb that has failed. No reply as yet, so wondered if any members can suggest how to test these units with a multimeter. The blurb states that they work by pulsing a high pitched radio frequency into the battery to desuphate the plates. Thanks in anticipation.

The 19mm quoted was the socket size I used to tighten all three bolts. Regarding length of bolts I guess a 75mm would suffice and you could always trim to size with an angle grinder.

Hi Steve 19mm on my Liverpool 2006 build. Just been dry docked for blacking and tightened up the three bolts. As they work loose within months I took the decision to have rudder tack welded to the shaft. I know people will say ah well if you have rudder issues you will need to have your boat out of water to make repairs. But it is not possible to access the bolts via the weedhatch anyway and I aren't too clever at holding my breath under water! All the best for dry docking.

Thanks for that information. I had not heard of Belzona so have just had a look at their website (other products available of course!). Based in Harrogate, they appear to have an array of products for numerous repair or protection situations including marine/offshore. An epoxy filler that can be used for filling pit holes is mentioned as well as for the repair pf damaged rudders and propellers where of course movement/ cavitation is the norm. I am keeping an open mind on this.

Surely someone has actually tried BB ?

Thanks for all your input. As boat is not yet dry docked I cannot report on state of pitting so the question was in effect hypothetical in anticipation! Paul C is right to query what I meant by spot weld and as I am not a technical bod I accept his clarification, thank you. Just having a look on tinternet I came across an epoxy based product called J-B Marine Weld (other products are available!) which claims to be a cold weld system that sets in 20 -25 minutes and is fully set in under 24 hours, for above and below water line achieving a tensile strength of 3960 PSI. Interesting.

Hi all Other than a spot weld what remedies have you tried? I have heard car body filler, liquid metal and plumbers epoxy resin mentioned but I am a little sceptical! Any thoughts and experiences welcomed. Thanks

Hello all Shortly in for blacking again. Anyone tried Ballistic Blacking? Seems reasonably priced and reckons to have less VOCs and more body than similar bitumen based blacking. The yard recommends Rylards Rytex. Any feedback or comments welcomed. Thanks.

Great News Pump running fine once again. I disconnected the pump, undid the small screw that acted as a stop to the square float falling out, took out the float cleaned it and the float chamber with some baby wipes wrapped round a thin knife, then into some hot soapy water and hey presto it now works a treat. Many thanks for all your advice. That has just saved me a few quid!

Welcome to the wonderful world of boating. I have insurance with GJW Direct and manage to negotiate the premium down each year. I hear that Newton Crum are competitive. Just wondering which canal you are moored on and your boat name? So we can give you a wave if you come by! Enjoy.

Thank you for all your advice. Whilst looking on the web I came across military vehicle paints, several shades of grey available in matt finish. Self priming and durable supposedly. Anybody used military paint on their boats and what were the results like? Thanks again