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alan_fincher

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Everything posted by alan_fincher

  1. I'm not sure I think that is the answer being given. I think it is being descried as a Ruston box, internally very similar to a Lister Blackstone 3G, (but not actually a Lister box). Whether internal parts from one can be used for replacements in the other has not so far been stated. Even with very common Lister Blackstone boxes I'm not convinced spares are always commonly available. Both my Blackstone boxes have at times relied on second hand part to effect a repair.
  2. Absolutely! To me it seems fairly obvious that the water which you are attempting to "squash" between the boats will attempt to push them apart. I can't rally visualise how passing close together could ever suck the boat towards each other. Only if you are very unlucky about who it is that is coming the other way!
  3. That's not right, surely? The PRM hydraulic box uses engine oil. Some time back PRM started specifying ATF in the manual box, but I'm not aware of them having made that change for the hydraulic one.
  4. IMO I don't think it is great to have a stern bearing that doesn't hav a remote greaser capable of holding a good supply of grease. If you really do only have a nipple to use for putting grease in, I think that is really quite unusual.
  5. Despite my frequently declared love of Vesta, I am happy to confirm that any sale was not to me!
  6. Id be more concerned about all that "SHOUTY" text" that implies that the vendor is looking for something other than a straight you agree a price, pay it, and it is yours. No doubt Mr Lauder thinks he has been clear, but I can't help thinking I can't be the only one who doesn't really understand what he is suggesting (or why?).
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  9. If you want to have the best chance of coming up with accurate research, it pays to be super accurate in anything you say yourself. The first of the canals as we now know them in Britain were not until late 1750s / early 1760s. I therefore can't see that the family you describe could have been a canal boat family 60 years prior to the coming of the canals!
  10. Found it! Credited to, and copyright of, Peter Thomson LUBRICATING OIL DILUTION IN LISTER ENGINES Introduction The range of Lister engines including LD, SL, LR, SR, HSR, ST, HA, HB, HR & their water-cooled variants all have the fuel equipment contained within the engine. Any leakage on this equipment will result in the lubricating oil being contaminated by fuel oil causing increasing levels in the engine - possibly with serious consequences. Although it was generally accepted that the engines would survive running with 65% dilution, the possible result of this could be that the crankshaft would dip into the increased level of oil causing excessive crankcase pressures, erratic running, stalling on tick-over and, in extreme cases, possibility of the engine running on its own lubricating oil and becoming uncontrollable. There are three main areas where leakage can occur: 1 Low pressure feed sources 2 High pressure sources 3 Low pressure leak-off sources Section 1 - Low pressure feed sources 1:1 Leak on fuel pump diaphragm 1:2 Damage to fuel feed rail 1:3 Leaking dowty washer between fuel feed rail and fuel injection pump 1:4 Leaking bleed valve on fuel injection pump 1:5 Loose element securing screw at rear of injection pump Section 2 - High pressure sources 2:1 Worn fuel pump element - in bad cases manifested by fuel spraying from pump rack 2:2 Loose delivery valve holder 2:3 Damaged delivery valve holder seal 2:4 Loose or damaged injector pipe union to top of injector pump 2:5 Fractured injector feed pipe 2:6 Loose or damaged injector pipe union to injector 2:7 Loose or damaged union on injector 2:8 Cracked injector body 2:9 Leakage from injector nozzle cap nut Section 3 - Low pressure leak-off sources 3:1 Injector cap nut 3:2 Loose or damaged leak-off union on injector 3:3 Loose or damaged cap nut or nipple on spill rail assembly - often caused by over-tightening 3:4 Fractured or damaged pipe on spill rail assembly - also includes automatic bleed pipe extension to fuel injection pump & associated union (if fitted) Section 4 - Recommended Investigation Procedure to determine source of leakage All the above can usually be diagnosed as follows, with the exception of the lift pump - this is covered under section 5. 4:1 Reduce level of oil to mark on dipstick 4:2 Remove air ducting, cylinder head covers and fuel pump housing door. 4:3 Check that fuel pumps are correctly tightened down - do not tighten fuel unions at this stage. 4:4 Observe whether any fuel pipes are being chaffed by pushrods etc - bend to provide adequate clearance if necessary. 4:5 Locate & disconnect oil feed pipe from crankcase to valve rocker pedestals. This is located within the fuel pump housing and comprises a single small pipe connecting to a tee-piece. Place a piece of flexible tubing c. 1/8" ID over this pipe and redirect through convenient hole back into crankcase. 4:6 Thoroughly dry with tissue or cloth all potential sources of leakage as detailed above. 4:7 Operate fuel lift pump by hand & inspect all sources covered in Section 1. 4:8 Start engine & inspect all potential sources. Section 5 - Fuel Lift Pump 5:1 Remove pump from engine 5:2 Plug outlet from pump (usually 1/2"unf) 5:3 Connect inlet to pipe & container providing fuel at pressure - c. 3ft head should be sufficient 5:4 Leave for sufficient period to determine whether leakage is apparent. Section 6 - Rectification Procedures In most cases the cure will be obvious, i.e. tightening, repair or replacement of part at point of leakage. However, the following comments should be noted: 6:1 Do not assume that leakage will only come from one source - check all points as above. 6:2 Looseness of parts or abrasion will often give guidance to possible sources. 6:3 If delivery valve holder is loose (2:2), do not just tighten as this can introduce a 'twist' to the injector pipe. Disconnect injector pipe from Injector and loosen union to fuel pump. Tighten delivery valve holder - 35 ft.lb Align fuel pipe to injector & tighten to delivery valve holder - use two spanners to avoid applying torque to pump. Check alignment again and reconnect fuel pipe to injector. If this does not cure leakage between holder & pump, assume damage to sealing washer. This will require specialist attention - also applies to 2:1 6:4 When faults are located and rectified, reassemble engine using new joints etc if required, pump out contaminated oil & replenish with fresh oil of the correct grade & viscosity. BEWARE OF OVER TIGHTENING ! THIS CAN INTRODUCE FURTHER PROBLEMS Peter Thompson Marine Engine Services Ltd, Unit 3 / 549 Eskdale Road, Uxbridge, Middlesex UB8 2RT Tel: 01895-236246. Fax: 01895-813322. e-mail: Peter@marineengine.co.uk © Peter Thompson 2005
  11. There is actually a whole host of ways with air-cooled Listers that diesel can end up in the lubricating oil. Somewhere there is an excellent article by Lister specialist Peter Thompson that takes you through a series of steps to diagnose, but a quick Google failed to find it for me - someone else will, I am sure find it. I don't know if anybody has yet spelt it out, but as the contents if the sump build up an ever increasing percentage of diesel, there is a possibility of the engine running away in uncontrolled manner which, in extremis, could result in a catastrophic failure.
  12. I used to have quite a soft spot for TASMANIA - quite an admission, as I am firmly a "Grand Union" fan! But that was when it was much shorter, (probably 40 feet I think), and had a lovely old Lister (probably an FR2, though I might be mis-rememberng). Subsequent re-lengthenings have removed much of it's appeal for me and it is now too much new build, and not enough ex FMC horseboat. We spent a day boating alongside TASMANIA sharing locks with our FLAMINGO as we attempted the Rochdale from Manchester to Hebden Bridge. I have to concede that TASMANIA was a lot shallower draughted than FLAMINGO, and also narrower beam, so encountered less problems on a"difficult" canal. One oddity of TASMANIA, (obvious in those photos), is that the exhaust goes out through the hull side. It was the preference of the owner not to breathe in exhaust from a vertical pipe on the roof. However being on the wrong side in a shared lock was not present. Apart from which it just seems plain wrong. Absolute maximum 40 feet - given that Braine would often put an entirely new counter stern on, with little attempt to use as much original iron as possible, probably quite a bit less than 40'. If Pete Harrison sees this post, I would be grateful for correction of anything I have got wrong.
  13. Spot on! I was coming down Hatton, and a single hander with a 70 foot boat, asked me if I would breast up, and tow him, so he was free to work gates and paddles. Bit he insisted on breasting bow to bow, creating the situation you describe. At that point I should have refused - as can be imagined it ended in tears!
  14. I doubt you would hardly ever have a situation where the stud on the butty sat quite that high above the dollies on the motor. But basically successful towing on straps relies on the thrust of the propeller passing beneath the the bow of the butty rather than it hitting the bow. In the latter situation it will be hard work to make much progress, and much of the power of the engine will be wasted. For an (empty) historic motor butty pairing, the motor will be drawing around 3 feet at the rear when underway, whereas the butty maybe drawing a little over 1 foot along its entire length. Thus the fact that the motor is two feet further in will mean that most of its propeller thrust will be below the butty, and hence driving the boat along almost as well as if there were no butty. Few "modern" boats draw 3 feet at the rear, and those which do bot would, in my view, work less well for towing an historic butty on straps.
  15. I know that both Ted and Ken Ward died at a relatively young age, some very long time ago. I'm sure their wives, sisters Ann(e?) and Vera Wain are also some years deceased. If I recall correctly, Alice Wain, now Alice Lapworth, (regularly seen at rallies was also a sister to Ann(e?) and Vera. I think that Wain family was quite large.
  16. I always think she was one of the most photogenic of the boating families children from the 1960s
  17. It is almost invariably harder to find suitable engineers in London itself. AS you start to move away from London I would suggest you have more chance of finding what you want, and potentially at a more reasonable cost. Uxbridge has just been mentioned, but moving North there is P&S Marine at Cassio Bridge or Cow Roast Marine Engineering on Tring summit. And to make it look more likely that you are serious about using their services don't just email them, but pick up a phone and speak to them. This will allow you to make sure both sides know what is being asked for, and it takes them less time to talk to you than to compose an email.
  18. Despite one of the previous answers, if it really is a Lister, and you have the correct serial number, this can often be interpreted down to an actual model number. However the number you have quoted is NOT a Lister engine serial number. As suggested it may be the individual part number for the bi of the engine on which it appears. Post a picture of the engine, and, if present, the plate on the engine carrying the details.
  19. Coals to Newcastle? And, I think, mostly on the Thames, rather than the canals?
  20. Welcome Tina! It is always excellent when members of working boat families appear and contribute to threads on here and I particularly enjoy it when they worked for Willow Wren, as I own a former Willow Wren boat. (So far I know Ted Ward never captained our boat, FLAMINGO, although his brother Ken most certainly did.) Published pictures show Ted and Anne Ward as having a daughter Julie, so am I right in assuming this was your sister?
  21. It's as valid a viewpoint as any other I guess. However purchase of Bognor gives you the hull of a full length Grand Union Canal Carrying Co motor boat. Purchase of Yarmouth gives you what was originally an ex Fellows Morton & Clayton horse boat, subsequently shortened and rebuilt at the back end to have a motor counter. Clearly thiugh Yarmouth's JP2 trounces the unsuitable engine in Bognor though. It depends what you want - there are plenty of people interested in a converted historic boat who would probably not be interested in either of these. I believe this is a price drop since I last looked -apologies if it has already been recorded. Note also that David now explicitly states that he is prepared to split the pair. Cyprus and Cedar
  22. I don't think there has been any price change - £35K when last discussed -£35K now. A famous British monarch uttered the memorable words "Bugger Bognor" - presumably that interior was the result!
  23. I'm certainly no fan of "Starmers lot", aka "Tory Lite", but they would have some challenge to do the same damage as was achieved in just a week or two by Truss / Kwarteng.
  24. Just to set expectations.... The owner of a boat next to us on our moorings used Polytrol on his somewhat jaded paintwork, (steel boat). The results didn't look at all bad. Although our FLAMINGO had considerably more degraded paint, we decided to give it a try. We were completely unable to improve the look over what it was before we started. So the moral seems to be that it only works down to a particular level of damage. After a few months the boat that had prompted us to try this product also looked pretty bad, having gone patchy throughout the whole length of the oat.
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