TeeELL

Let me state first and foremost that I am not a mechanical engineer and the following is from past experience of cars. However, thinking about this from your point of view - re over heating problems. The thermostat is designed to allow the engine water jacket to heat up quickly and once it does so the thermostat operates to allow the rapidly heating water to pass around the coolong system to achieve a 'status quo'. So, in order to check out your engine for overheating why not: a. Run it without a thermostat just the pressure cap (did this for a short time on my Mk1 Cortina when the thermostat failed). You will find the engine will take longer to reach normal operating temp but, if there are no blockages etc, the engine should operate OK. b. If the above works OK then fit the new thermostat and see what difference it makes (ie does it take longer for the water to the skin tank to warm up etc). c. Finally if you are still desparate for a thermostat with extension - take the original one to a motor factors - they will surely be able to help and at a fraction of the price of your local Chandlers. good luck

I have just done this myself (see other gas orientated threads) using 10mm pipr. I was given, by my CORGI BSS inspector electric gland through which the gas pipe would pass and which can then be used as a firm but pliable 'bulk head fitting'. Unfortunately the double skin through to my gas locker and the pre-installed lining through to the cabin made these impossible to fit. I resorted to the following: From a plumbers I purchased some flexible nylon tube with an id of 10mm and grommets with an id that would fit around that tubing. With the copper pipe in place (grommets fitted loosley in appropriate places) I slit lengthwise a piece of tubing approx 25mm longer than the depth of the bulkhead pressed it around the pipe and slid it into place so that approx 12mm of tude extended each end of the bulk head. Press the grommets into place and coat with a smear of silicom to prevent the rubber perishing and waterproof the fitting. Voila! a fairly elegant solution with NO JOINTS and the BSS inspector was quite happy. I would say that, if you can access the bulkheads easily then the use of the electrical glands is a superior solution.

Having phoned several chandlers around the Midlands looking for one specific item (10mm gas tap) all, without exception, stocked only imperial and where aghast that I should be using metric fitting. Thus the use of imperial fittings is perpetuated. I was simply following the acvice of my BSS inspector (as previously mentioned) who is a gentleman, boat owner and of the right attitude.

Elsewhere on this forum you may have read my disaster with a 'so called' boat qualified CORGI gas fitter. I replaced his very professional entire mishmass of 15mm and 8mm? pipes and joints with a single run of 10mm copper pipe as advised by my BSS inspector. I fitted a 10mm bubble tester in the gas locker with the flexible hose connected directly (although I didn't use the hose connecter version specifically - I ended up with exactly the same set-up) then a single length of 10mm through the various bulkheads (no bulkhead fittings used I just sheathed and grommeted the pipe 'cos I couldnt get the recommended electrical gland to fit) to the appliance on/off tap where I needed an adaptor to reduce the 10mm to fit the cooker armoured hose (8mm if I recall corectly). At risk of repeating myselt the gas system went from 19 joints! down to 5 - and the system passed the BSS. Hope this helps - if you need to know more about how I did the sheath/grommet thing please feel free to ask. Tony

I made a bulk purchase from ASDA although it was a couple of months ago. 5ltr containers where just a couple of quid each as I remember.

Mike, beware the CORGI. I paid for a supposedly 'Boat certified' CORGI gas fitter to do the installation on my boat (very simple bottle to cooker job through a couple of bulkheads). Imagine then my surprise when the BSS inspector failed the installation!! Why? there were no less than 19 yes nineteen joints in a run of 7 metres. I ripped the lot out (having photographed the installation) and, following the instructions from the BSS inspector (a CORGI qualified fitter), replaced the lot myself. Ended up with 5 joints (one more than I hoped because of the need of a 10mm to 8mm converter). Bottom line - I used common sense, followed the advice of my BSS inspector (who over-signed my work after testing) and cannot find the rougue who did the duff installation.

Hi Tom and Sophie, a point has been made that the timer may not draw enough current to cause the inverter to sense it. If you find that is the case you will have to keep a low wattage 240v lamp on over night.

Under the air pressure the bladder will distend to fill the 'water chamber' so any air within this part of the accumulator will be all but insignificant. However, if the 'air' side of the accumulator has been depressurised for any reason this will not be the case. From the instructions on the accumulator I fitted to my boat there is a, relatively, high pressure in the accumulator which needs to be bled to match the pressure of the water pump. Bottom line - you don't need to worry about it provided there is a measureable pressure on the 'air' side of the accumulator before you reinstall it.

If you are happy to do a bit of smelting/casting a visit to your local Tyre fitting place will almost certainly yield a tub of wheel weights for a fiver. No idea how much a tub weighs though but I must have produced 30+ lbs of castings from each tub.

Much as I would like to go (if only to 'steal' ideams for my boat) I am going to be slaving at Alvecote Marina fitting out my boat. Next year perhaps. Off topic but thanks to all the contributors to threads on questions I would have asked. Tony