abbeyriver

Hi SaltySplash et al, I'm in a very similar situation - sprog 2 is starting to grow and our widebeam ain't (we're 55x10). Did you get yours stretched, if so who did you use and how did it go, if not what put you off? I'm looking at ours being done at Oxord Cruisers in Enysham, anyone had similar work done there? Jamie

Wow, thanks for all the input, think i have got my head round it now. I do seem to be going for a highbreed system, the rads are in series but as they are teed off onto 15mm and the 22 continues on it shouldn't matter if one is turned off as the water will simply go to the next. Regarding Hep2o, I was recomended this as it has a much longer guarantee than speedfit and is designed to flatten out rather than keeping it's curl. Also whilst some of the fittings are pretty much impossible to remove I've got the screw off version which are straight forward to remove - I've had to already. Re - cooper from heater is apparently not needed as the output is so much smaller than domestic systems. I'll let you know how it goes.

Agree - I just installed a webasto supplied with brass fitting for exhaust as package from well known swindlers in the kit - seemed exactly the same as the one for water.

Thanks for all replies - v. helpful. Is there any circumstance when you'd install the radiators in series rather than parrallel, my DIY has both and it looks like the one suggested by you guys (ie parrallel) has a header tank? I'll be use 22 Hep2O with 15 to the rads The size of our widebeam is 57 x 10ft. We have a 6kw squirell that probably would be enough heat for my partner and I, but we've a small baby and so far the solid stove hasn't been able to pump enough heat to the bedrooms - my origninal plan was to install a back boiler - but because it seems such a black art I've gone for convenience. Oh yeah and when I was planning the installation I forgot about having hot water - so the Webasto is now bought and half installed - I've read all the debate about boilers and just had to go for one.

Ok, I've given in these big widebeams get cold so we've decided to install a webasto heating system to supplement the squirrel and give us much needed hot water. I've been putting in radiators and now I need to plumb them into pipework but am confused - should I tee the radiators valves to hot feed only (ie both intake and outflow of each radiator to same pipe) or tee the outlet vavle of the rad to the return pipe (ie intake to rad off hot feed, outflow of rad to return pipe). Anyone dig me out of this hole?

thanks,in the end i've found a load of concrete slabs on my local freecycle website - the lady was more than pleased to get rid of her old patio and now i reckon ihave a ton toplay with - i'll try the cable idea out. freecycle seems agreat place to get stuff for nowt

We also looked at getting a widebeam from NBC, they said nothing about LB and lots about Poland but when we looked closely at one of their affordable sailaways we noticed a Liverpool Boats panel, then noticed the square stern and spoke to a surveyor who confirmed they get their affordable boats from Liverpool - we were so unimpressed with the way NBC covered this up we went elsewhere- Cheshire narrowboats.

I need to lower (trim) the front of my new widebeam, what do forum members think is the most affordable and effective method? I'm reckoning I need around 2 tons to drop it 2 - 3". I've been offered some concrete slabs but heard that they absorb moisture so aren't the best (and I've only been offered a few). Someone mentioned engineering bricks to overcome this but i imagine that's going to cost a lot. What about covering the base plate to stop it rusting from movement of the ballast rubbing away blacking, any suggetions of good materials? Thanks in advance

Thanks one and all - I'll go for the 2k suitcase then and keep my fingers crossed

That's helpful - I'm now planning on buying a pure sine wave 2k suitcase gennie, what spec is your frame genny Dylan, do you think I'd need to go up to a 3k with the accompanying increasing cost and weight? I think I should have stuck with the laundrette! My inverter is a victron 1600, apparently even though the candy is rated at 1300 the digital gizmos are really sensitive and need a higher wattage according to midland chandlers who i bought them both from - go figure

I've just bought one of the candy machines for my new build, it states it needs 1300w but apparently my 1600 inverter won't work it - anyone know what wattage generator I'll need to power it instead - I'd assumed a 2k would be enough but not sure now

Thanks Black Rose for the comprehensive and comprehendable response about actully how to fit a skin fitting - really helpful. My fit out is coming on in leaps and bounds, so much so that now the kitchen is in I've come to the crunch and was about to get the drill out to follow the described process - but doh the hole is only about 5 inches above the waterline. I think I'm going to have to ditch some of the ballast - maybe the new cooker or fridge!

Depending on your location these guys might also be worth checking out: http://www.abbutt.co.uk/ - give them a call. I bought a load of panels a few years ago for boater friends and myself and got a reasonable discount. The panels work well - but they are made by shell!

Ok - stupid question coming up - what is the best way of fitting the standard skin fitting, I'm nervous about drilling a hole in the side of my new boat - no matter how many inches abouve the water. What sort of slope should there be on the sink outlet? thanks for being patient

I'm going to have the candy 1000 washing machine, any idea what size generator I'll need? I know it is rated at 1600watts but that only the 3kw inverter is recommended to run it, so is the same true for a generator or could I get away with a 2kw - I'm looking at the Honda suitcase as it's not too noisey

anyone know if these cookers confirm to the RCD CE mark? I've just discovered this beautiful piece of regulation, which apparently I need when fitting out my new sailaway, and which is harsher than the BSS especially when it comes to gas appliances

in fear of being rebuked for not having posted more than 1000 times - has anyone tried this guy: http://www.bedazzled.uk.com/ I visitied him and his warm white leds won me over - the output is what I'd expect from a 'normal light' and he includes regulators with each bulbs so that they can cope with voltage spikes. I'm so convinced I'm going to kit then new widebeam out in them entirely, hoping that the initial cost will be compensated for by big energy reductions and longevity. Awaiting incoming critique

I've been looking at the same issue,spoke to Midland Chandlers and they now only recommend using a 3k inverter with the candy. The max wattage is rated as 1300watt but apparently after tests they can only guarantee that the 3k will ensure the candy works properly.

Maybe don't react too quickly when you come across people using phrases that fit with your stereotypes. Isn't this forum exactly what is refered to, it's a perfect example of "work without hierachies, aiming to empower all participants. Information and skills are shared, and we aim to make decisions by consensus" Just because we don't call it such doesn't mean it ain't

thanks Bottle - I'll dig out the engine manual unless someone jumps in with the answer

ah ha - right that probably explains it, (more likely than gremlins) I have a pressure one on both. Any idea where I should start looking for a blank - autoshop/halfords Steelaway - yes the ticket man was around yesterday, I'm in the marina so not an issue but if you're son can blag it until Sunday I'd be happy to give him a hand through the locks, the first few are electronic so not hard

we haven't - I've got a mooring at sprinfield and replied to your flooding post

Thanks alex, sounds like that may well be the problem, I'll check their condition and replace if necessary, how do I "blank the rad cap on the engine"? I too have been impressed by your boat design - particularly the centre rope ring

It's been an ongoing problem, it shouldn't be the head gasket as we've had this replaced recently, as all of the system seems to warm up I don't think it could be air blocks. It happens when not cruisng so can't be a drive problem Not sure about the thermostat, which were you thinking of and what should it do - the temp gauge seems to work fine. When you say rad caps do you mean the big ones on the engine heat exchanger/maifold and expansion tank - if so I've wondered about this, can you get different types? thanks this forum is great, really useful

My current narrowboat has a keel cooled mitsubishi thornycroft engine which heats the water in the boat through a calorifier (vertical). Water/antifreeze keeps leaking from the overflow on the manifold cap and from the overflow on the expansion tank cap on coming off the calorifier once the engine reaches normal temperature. At first I though this was due to overfilling the manifold - but if we leave it the liquid continues to escape and has once meant the engine overheated. It doesn't seem like there are any blockages in the system as all pipes heat up. Any idea of why this is happening and any way of stopping it?