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Polly Graff

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Yorkshire

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  • Occupation
    Polygraph Examiner
  • Boat Name
    Bracken
  • Boat Location
    West Midlands

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  1. Thanks very much everybody. I think I must have dreamed the 12v/240v combination so will put it out of my mind. Its an old boat and I wouldn't be convinced the cables to the fuse box would be up to the job. So - I'll opt for a straightforward 12v fridge which I will connect to the non-battery side of the leisure batteries isolator - once I've found out how that is done! Any suggestions would be gratefully received. PG Yes - I entirely get that - and I found the idea of plugging my boat into a 13amp socket genuinely amusing - so no offence taken or intended. The thing is, you can't learn anything in life without asking questions - and when you first start learning, some of the questions probably will be pretty stupid! Regards, PG
  2. LOL - I may be ignorant but not completely intellectually defict! I do know that shore power doesn't come to the boat via a 13amp plug!!! What I meant was this:- on my boat, there is a shore power inlet (blue, round thing) - but that feeds a 13 amp socket on which someone in the past has helpfully written 'shoreline'. Plugging a 13amp plug into that socket then feeds what I like to think of as a 13amp ring main (i.e., lots of 13amp sockets up and down the boat). Next to the socket marked 'shoreline', there is another which the same person from the past has labelled 'inverter'. If you plug the above mentioned plug into the socket marked 'inverter', the inverter then feeds the 'ring main'. Since you can't plug the plug into two sockets at once, there is no risk of having the shoreline and the inverter feeding the 13amp plugs at the same time. So what I meant is, if you have a two way fridge which can work off either 12v or 240/230v, is it just a case of plugging it into a 13amp socket (which is being fed from the shoreline when the system is plugged into the 'shoreline' plug. Moving on from that, MtB is saying that 12v/240v fridges should be avoided because they wreck batteries. Is this a generally held view? I have read about absorption fridges and that they are not good for batteries but I was talking about a 12v/240v compressor fridge. I have seen a couple of these advertised. Is the general view that it would be better to get a straightforward 12v fridge and a battery charger to harness the shoreline to keep the batteries charged, rather than one of these. My boat does not have a battery charger at the moment. Lastly, the general consensus sxeems to be that the 12v should be connected to the fridge side of the battery isolator. How would one do that (i.e, the practicalities)?, is 6mm cabling okay for a 6 - 7m cable run and should I use a 10amp fuse or something bigger/smaller? Thanks all, PG
  3. Hi - I know very little about narrowboat electrics and what little I do know, I got from this forum. I want to fit a 12v fridge in my boat with the option to run off shorepower when its available. I have been advised not to go through the fuse box but to wire it direct from the batteries. This will involve around a 6-7metre cable run each way - so positve 6/7m to the fridge, negative 6/7m back again. I am planning to use 6mm cable and to include an in line fuse (I believe 10 amp is recommended? - not certain about that) and an in line switch. So - thats the theory ,, however, I am unc;lear exactly where and how to connect the cables to the 12v supply. I have three leisure batteries and a starter battery. Under the engine cover there are two battery isolators. I have no idea what they isolate - one is quite a substantial job with what looks like a stainless steel lever (the bit you pull out to isolate) and the other is more like the standard red plastic job. They are both newly fitted by a highly reputable outfit. I have a suspicion that connecting the cables direct to the leisure batteries is inadvisable - though not sure about that either. But logic dictates that I should be connecting the fridge cables somewhere on the fridge side of one or other (or possibly both) of the battery islolators. So - is that right and, if so, how do you go about connecting the cables? Any advice would be gratefully received. Also, how does the shore power part work on these fridges. Is there just a separate 13amp cable with a plug you can just plug into a socket when shore power is available ... or is it more complicated than that? Thanks in advance PG
  4. Hi all - thanks so much. Once again proving that the helpfullness and supportiveness of the boating community is not at all a myth!!! Regards, GP
  5. Thats a good point - hadn't considered possible wrong feed. Multi meters are my next learning point. Oh dear - really exposing my ignorance now! PG
  6. Apologies - only just spotted the link to Charnleys - many thanks. I'll bear that in mind (and continue to be perfplexed why it didn;t get a hit when I was searching. Actually - just chancing my arm here - the starter is not the knottiest of my problems. Biggest electrical issue is this:- I have 12v to the lights, horn, tunnel light, while the engine is running but that all stops working as soon as the engine is switched off. Meanwhile - the 1500w inverter carries on working - so I have power to all eight sockets in the boat. Meanwhile (again) - 12 v to the water pump does not work whether I have the engine or not. Any ideas wold be gratefully received! Regards, Ian
  7. Hi all - many thanks. Boat is actually a two hour drive away at the moment - hopefully being blacked as we type. So I'm afraid I can't try any of the suggestions just at present. All I can say re availability of the part is that a two hour internet search trying various combinations of 'starter motor solenoid for bmc 1.5 diesel marine engine' threw up absolutely no hits at all. Even the tractor sites (!) that it trawled up were only selling whole new starter motors. Also, I quite like the idea of getting the old one working again - and saving the planet as a useful side-effect! This is all assuming, of course, that it actually is the solenoid or the starter motor that are causing the problem. But - hey ho -, I've got to start somewhere. Thanks again PG
  8. Hi again - engine can be reluctabt to start. Turn key and I just get a click - which sounds like a solenoid problem. Can do that four or five times and then it bursts into life and all is good until the next time I want to start. I suspect the solenoid just needs a clean up and a touch of light lubrication. Ian Sorry - should also have said. I've searched the internet and can only find whole starter motors for sale - no one seems to have just the solenoid any more. Regards, Ian Right - 10mm - thanks - I'll add them to my birthday list (-:)
  9. Many thanks. I'll get a set of AFs then. First job is probably going to be cleaning up the starter motor and solenoid - is that likely ton be AF or BA (for which you said I'd be able to substitute metric). I'm reluctant to buy a whole new starter because I think itm will be a solenoid problem. But you don't seem to be able to obtain just the solnoid anywhere Thanks again, Ian
  10. I'm new to boating and have just bought a 1994 narrow boat. I'm also new to mechanics but would like to do as much of my own maintenance as I can. Could someone please advise what type of spanners and sockets I'll need for a BMC 1.5 engine. I've heard of metric, AF, whitworth (and probably some others I can't recall. Which of these spanner/socket set types will I need to buy for my engine, please?
  11. Hello - I am considering the purchase of a 1989, 45' narrowboat which claims to have a three cylinder, Vetus 3.19 engine. I cannot find any reference to such a power plant anywhere on the internet. Anybody have any ideas, please? Power is said to be '36' - 36 what it doesn't say. Any info would be most welcome, please. Regards, Dr. Polly G
  12. Thats all really useful. Thank you for taking the time. Uhm .... am I likely to recognise a skin tank if I see one!? Where are they located, generally, and how many of them are there? Regards, Ian
  13. At the moment I'm working on limited information - all I have are the brokers boat details. I know neither has central heating. Because of the current situation, I can't view them - marinas tend to be shut and, in any case, I don't go out unless its essential - like we've been told. Hopefully I'll be able to see them at some point and get more info.
  14. Thanks for the advice - I'm one of the world's great preparers - never been known to take a chance on anything - so full service will take place before I go anywhere - especially there!!!
  15. Sorry that should have said 45' with 30 hp.
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