Dave Hannigan

30/03/09 Long Itchington to bottom of Hatton flight-no sign. Have not tried the Saltisford arm though, anybody there to confirm or deny??

Went from Calcutt to Long Itchington yesterday-no sign Dave

All back now, no mystery, all the signs along the M55 are being replaced at the moment. Don't know when they went back but spotted today. Dave

Certainly sounds good in principle. My initial thoughts are that these devices are fitted to boilers with fan assisted flues and only if approved by the boiler manufacturer that the flue fan can do the job. On a natural draught flue the temperature of the flue gasses contributes to the effectiveness of the flue and lowering this temp could stop the flue working properly, with obviously all sorts of nasty possibilities to do with CO poisoning. Also the flue above the condenser would condensate, which is acidic and could compromise the flue integrity. I have seen some condensing boiler installations where copper has been used as the condensate drain and has resembled a sieve within 18 months. Having said that, if you could get one to work properly, you could make a fortune. Dave

The only direct systems that I have come across are for hot water, with the boiler being a copper back boiler or gas circulator, they were never used for central heating. When central heating was added to hot water systems then the indirect cylinder came into being. I suspect what they are saying is not to use with a 'primatic' cylinder, or to give full title 'single feed indirect' cylinder. These used the cold water storage tank to supply the central heating circuit. They were designed so that when the system was full then the primary circuit (central heating) was separate from the secondary (domestic hot water) by an air bubble. Obviously with using the cold water storage tank then inhibitor could not be added. Dave

A cooker would not be regarded as a fixed appliance- they are will need to be moved for cleaning purposes. Personally I would rather a connection designed for that purpose than solid pipework that was not designed to allow cookers to be moved on a regular basis. I agree hobs and ovens meant to be secured in housing units should be solid pipework. Dave

28mm fittings will fit 1" imperial pipe compression or solder. Dave

There is also a certification specifically for boats, as the boat regs differ from other LPG installations. Dave

Sit back & enjoy

Not strictly true, it does not comply with the boat regulations, but is perfectly acceptable in domestic house pipework. Dave

Not necessarily the pump if you are fitting a modern boiler with pump overrun. Check with the boiler manufacturers instructions- the pump may be wired directly to the boiler. Dave

Lee Generally the red coloured are for heating systems, usually white for potable water, don't know if the difference is in the material used for the diaphragm or the material for the vessel itself. Presumably the potable ones are made of food grade materials. Also potable water is oxygenated whereas central heating water tends to be de-oxygenated and treated with corrosion inhibitors, so corrosion is not the same problem. dave

Hot water bottle, electric blanket or just snuggle up all cosy????? :lol:

Alan, Having reread some posts you gave an input pressure of 14" as against 14.8", are you able to measure the actual burner pressure and compare with the manufacturer's spec??. If this is down by the 0.8" or very close then changing the diaphragm probably wont help as the gas valve must be fully open. If you have a regulator and can pipe so you have the full 14.8" at the inlet and try rating the appliance again to see how much difference the 0.8" will make. The actual burner pressure is the governing factor in the heat output of the appliance and is the one thing to get right before looking for other faults. On these type of appliances the inlet pressure can directly affect the burner pressure at the full gas rate. If you get the inlet pressure right then if the burner pressure is low then look to the diaphragm or gas valve. If the burner pressure is ok then you will need to look at the heat exchanger. If doing the above is a pain, then a tenner on the diaphragm wont break the bank, and may save some work with the above and do the trick. If it doesn't the do the above. Feeding the Morco directly from a calorifier would be a no no, as if the engine had been running all day the calorifier could be around the 80deg mark and another 25deg would give you a steam shower-ouch!!! However as suggested feeding from a thermostatic blending valve set to 25deg would give you around 50deg. Although why use gas to heat the water thats already heated freebies???? It would I suppose make the calorifier hot water last longer, if there are a few aboard for showers. Good luck Dave