Theo

Thanks for that Mr Jones. All good advice which I will follow later. Here are some more readings. Engine running. Alternator delivering about 40A. PD between engine battery +ve and Domestic bank +ve (as measured at the terminals where the sensing wires are connected ) is about 150mV. Battery voltages as measured by the SG 13.2V and 13.5V. No error showing Engine running at full temp after about 1.5 hrs cruising. E11 showing and SG battery voltages 14.1V on the domestics and 13.3V on the engine. This, to me indicates a high resistance somewhere in the engine battery circuit. I had a brief problem with the engine battery master switch recently which I fixed by swithchin on and off several times. I think that might be the problem. I'll investigate further. Thanks for the advice that's coming in. It always helps to write about the problem. It helps to clear things in my mind. Nick

The relay contacts were closed when we arrived at the mooring this evening. I turned the engine off and checked the resistance across the terminals. I measured it at 0.6 Ohms. At, say 30A, that would give 5V drop. Would that be enough to casue the error? I think the next thing I will do is to check the pd between the +ve engine battery and the +ve domestic when the alternator is giving a good output in the morning. That's where the sensing leads are connected and should give an indication of the whole run of cable. I suspect that cleaning the relay cpntacts would do no harm. Thanks for the advice chaps. Ill keep you posted. Nick Latest bulletin: Still connected 5 hours after mooring up. SoC reading 99% voltages on domestics and engine equal within the limitations of the SG. It really looks as if there is resistance that should not be there and I still think it's most likely to be the relay contacts. But you never know... Nick

Hi all I fitted Gibbos kit in 2007 and it's worked really well ever since but I am getting an E11 fault now. In the manual it says "Smartbank, (...) has attempted to operate the split charge relay but Smartguage is measuring different voltages on the 2 batteries. This would indicate a faulty relay or faulty relay wiring. In either case split charging is probably not taking place." I have not yet done an inspection but I would start by having a look to set if the relay contacts are closing when the SG says "con" then measuring the voltage drop across the relay contacts. Any other thoughts? Nick

Hi Tony. In my earlier post (June 23rd) I repsonded: Thanks, Tony. Before I was asked the question that's what I suspected. I would have just put it in the inhibitor tank and let it do is stuff during a few days' cruising. I'm interested to see that you would drain down and replace the whole, or most of, the coolant. Why is that? Does the ethylene glycol degrade? I was under the impression that it is just the corrosion inhibitor that degrades. We have an indirect raw water cooling system with a water cooled exhaust. (BMC 1.5) Thanks for all the advice that you have given me and the rest of CWF over all these years. The first bit of advice that you gave me was back in 2006. We still have the same boat and the BMC 1.5 is still as reliable as ever. But taking on your request for continued clarity I will use the term "indirect raw water cooling" in future. In fact, I might even go back and corrected my posts... That's really useful thanks. I had thought, wrongly, that the modern antifreeze was not longer ehtylene glycol and that was the difference between l blue and pink. From what you say it looks as if I can continue with my plan to NOT drain the system but just add the inhibitor. Have I got that right? Nick

This is what I copied from here: https://flash-cooling.com/en/the-pink-cooling-liquid/ The organic type LDR is usually pink/red in colour. Also, it is composed mainly of products of organic origin which finally offer a more accumulated protection of the engine compared to liquids of mineral origin. Generally, pink LDR is a universal coolant up to – 30°. In addition, it is particularly suitable for VOLKSWAGEN, MERCEDES and GENERAL MOTORS vehicles. It also protects the cooling system down to -30°C. Its pink colour is identical to that of the manufacturer for a better follow-up of the quality of the product. Pink antifreeze is a permanent coolant of the latest generation. This type of liquid benefits from an organic technology based on carboxylic acids, perfectly compatible and miscible with G12. It is a ready-to-use product. It can be used as a complement or as a complete renewal of the circuit for better efficiency. I am using the old fashioned ethylene glycol stuff. It's coloured blue. I notice that with age it loses its colour. Is that to do with the degradation of the inhibiter, I wonder? Incidentally, I love my raw water cooling. In over 5,000 hours of engine running under all conditions of fast running up rivers in warm weather and icy conditions in the winter it has been no trouble that I haven't been able to rectify. There were just two occasions when I had to take action. The first was that the intake tube in the mudbox became corroded and I had to replace it. The second was that little snails had taken up residence in the gearbox oil cooler. Duckweed on the run down to Keadby was no problem. Nick

Thanks, Tony. Before I was asked the question that's what I suspected. I would have just put it in the inhibitor tank and let it do is stuff during a few days' cruising. I'm interested to see that you would drain down and replace the whole, or most of, the coolant. Why is that? Does the ethylene glycol degrade? I was under the impression that it is just the corrosion inhibitor that degrades. We have an indirect raw water cooling system with a water cooled exhaust. (BMC 1.5) Thanks for all the advice that you have given me and the rest of CWF over all these years. The first bit of advice that you gave me was back in 2006. We still have the same boat and the BMC 1.5 is still as reliable as ever. Nick PS Which inhibitor should I use is I decide to go that way?

Is there a sensible, away from main roads, route? What's the towpath like? I can't see from Google Maps or the OS maps though the Severn Way is marked on the OS Map. Nick

Sorry that I have been a long time in looking for replies. In answer to "How do I get it to mix?" I would have a look at the density of the inhibitor. If it is much the same as water I would just add it to the expansion tank. With heating and cooling and, therefore, epansion and contraction of the bulk of the coolant it belive that it would gadually be introduced to the main circulation and so gradually mix in. If, like antifreeze, it's much more dense then I think that the same would happen but if it's much less dense then it would be more likely just to float at the top of the expansion tank and take ages to diffuse into the main circulation. In that case I would need to drain a bucket or two out of the system, mix the inhibitor with it and then replace it. Nick

It's my intention to avoid having to drain out all the coolant from the engine and associated plumbing by using an inhibitor additive. Is this wise? Which should I use? Here is a screenshot of a Google search.

As far as I can see no one has mentioned the possibilty of a slack alternator belt. Do make sure that it is properly tight (about 1/2" deflection on the longest run of belt.) N

Can't see why that particular lock should be worse than others with a long cill. There will be the usual white cill marker won't there? Nick

Thanks all. We'll need more than a week. SWMBO and I will be staying in a caravan moored by Tewsbury Abbey for a few days. No. 1 son and family will be living in the boat for the duration of the festival. No. 1 grandson is a Hereford Cathedral chorister and will be needed for the whole ten days. What fun! N

We are planning on taking our 60' NB to Goucester from about 20th- 31st July 2023. We are moored at Tardebigge Old Wharf. Out main concern is that we get moorings within walking distance of the Cathedral but any hints and tips would be good. TIA Nick

That'll be the drainage outflow from the stables then. Good liqui manure for the planters on the roof. 🤢

Having no knowledge whatsoever about the canal, apart from what I have just read, is there any chance of restoration? N

Good grief! I never imagined that it would be that much. The transpiration that you are talking about, is that the water taken up by aquatic plants and evaporated through their leaves?

Thanks for the ideas. Keying is favourite in my mind (mea culpa). I will do some experimenting and assess the results. The peeling happened relatively quickly so I should know reasonably soon. The later experience is very different from the early. N

I walked past the marina just this morning and had a good look at it with. A number of "imperfactions" wre noted by either SWMBO and me. Where the finger pontoons are too short for the intended boat length there is a flood pole. On the flood pole is a vertical bar for you to put your rope around. The intention is that as the river level changes the rope slides up or down the bar. It seems to me that even a single loop of rope would have a tendency to stick, especially under tension. So much better to have installed a galvanised ring on the bar. That would be better at sliding up and down. The bars in question are not welded to the flood poles but clamped to them with dirty great clamps. Loads of right angles to punch holes through things when manoeuvring in high winds and ledges to get your counter stuck under when you are away form the boat and the flood waters are rising. Not a safety ladder in sight. If you fall in you have little chance to climb out unless you can duck under the connecting walkway and scramble up the bank. I really would not like to moor there even if it was extra cheap. There were a few boats moored, including a rather down-at-heal liveaboard(?) quite close to our viewing position. His sternline was tied to the bar on the flood pole with a round turn, possibly a clove hitch. Expect a sinking if we get some heavy rain. Nick

When Margaret painted Theodora in 2008 she covered up the old all over maroon job. I was commissioned with keying up the surface and, since the maroon was in good condition this I did. Only spot treating the very few rust spots. Ten years later Theodora was still looking presentable but tired so we decided to get a proffessional paint jobe done. Margaret didn't want to do the bulk of the boring bit of painting but decided to do the fancy bits herself. So we asked the painters to leave the gas locker hatch and its surrounding deck, along with the top bends just undercoated. The cabin slide was left with the raddle coat that was used for the roof. She painted the bits mentioned. The photos show how the paint is pealing of. In fact you can rub it off with your fingers. What is the most likely explanation?

Just one last question: the od of the rubber tube is 11.5mm will the 10-12mm clamp be right. Here is a link to the one that I am looking at. N

Gorrit. There are other alternatives to Ebay.

Is there another name for a double eared clench ring? Ebay hasn' heard of such a thing. N

Yes indeed! I was beguiled by the like for like replacement promise. I know that the MX40 had a bad name bu our served us well for many years. N That sounds good advice. Thanks Tracy. N

I am replacing my MX40 with an MX50. I have the plumbing for the water side all connected up. (Don't be fooled by the blandishments of the sales people. It's not a drop in replacement for the MX40. It does fit on the same backplate but pretty well everything else is different: water inlet outlet sizes and positions are different. Exhaust position is different. Electrical connections have one plug which has no mate and the installation guide is no help.) My current problem, ignoring the electrical one for the time being, is getting a leak free fuel connection. I have, as far as I can ascertain with a metric/imperial vernier, a 3/16" copper pipe from the fuel tank. The internet tells me in numerous places that 3/16" is equivalent to 5mm reninforced rubber. I find that 5mm is very slightly bigger. I tested it by clamping it over the plain end of the copper. It leaked. Question: compressing an olive on to the end of the copper makes a tight fit but will this be safe? Thanks in advance for the continiung help that I have had with no end of questions ove the past 16 years. Nick