Mikexx

I confess to reading your first post properly but at the time of my reply I hadn't yet read your second clarifying it's content. https://www.homefire.co.uk/ecoal50.html Gives a product information of "up to" in every respect. It also says "Emits up to 40% less carbon dioxide than house coal". In Specification is says, "Smoke Emissions: Less than 5g per hour". Well, my stove uses coal. But as I'm not burning anything I can easily say the same". One thing it doesn't saying anything about is heat output. I would go further and say, "Burns up to 38% hotter than house coal" means my stove would wear out quicker while producing less 'heat'. As I expected, eco-friendly-crap product details and spec to take in the unwary. In reality it is 50% coal and can be anything else classed as renewable added for bulk. It is a crying shame that suppliers are not obliged to publish real useful information, such as calorific output (kJ/kg) and some classification of smoke output in terms of smoke(g)/material(kg) as well as ash(kg)/material(kg) Until then it is very likely that eco-friendly coal is far worse than burning logs to the planet and probably on par with coal.

Given most smokeless coal should be pure carbon, with the volatile components removed, 40% less CO2 suggests 40% less coal, with the remainder being ash.

Ah, I see. I didn't think Australia had any canals.

Can you give further details of how a truck with 40 tons of waste can avoid disposal fees, are you suggesting they go to mainland Europe? 700 miles from where?

That was my thought too. And the incentive to dump rubbish is in part due to the cost of legal disposal. We're in the silly situation that I can buy many goods new, but I'm not allowed to recycle them, buying waste without the right permit and after paying for it. I would even require a permit for my vehicle to carry goods to be recycled. With laws this messed up and the lack of resources given to councils up it's not surprising dumping goes on. Some people just don't have their feet on the ground and live in La La land.

Don't you think you're being a tad oversensitive? Yes, you do come across for not caring about others' opinions. Sometimes it is better to work with people rather than against them. Rather than concerning yourself over yours and my profile, you should look closer to home over how you are perceived. As far as being a blank profile, the moderators of this group will be aware of my name and the email address I use to login into this site contains my personal domain details. The reason why I refrain from providing my full details in my profile here are due to the fanatical nutcases you get here occasionally and I'd rather not get direct 'fan' mail or having anyone knocking on my door or at my boat when an argument has gone against a fellow contributor.

Yes I have, you get remember for how things end, rather than how they started. Did you read my post you're replying to?

Given how you have reacted to some of the post, that isn't the message we're hearing. It should be your starting point, and your finishing point. Anything more and it hardens attitudes. I'm pretty sure all the stuff I now see for sale is smokeless. Perhaps different areas stipulate sales differently?

I doubt anyone working on a "professionally run furnace" is going to be an engineer , or indeed anyone with qualifications. It's a long time closed shops were outlawed. I usually find it's experience that makes an engineer, qualifications and belonging to some institution that will take money in return for the use of some logo seems to help to help in the belief that someone is an engineer. In reality they're still unlikely to be an engineer and some of us call ourselves chartered engineers. The issue here is that someone has chosen to take the high and mighty approach, rather than simply and kindly asking people to dispose of their ashes appropriately. I would go further and say that some of the posts me positively encourage me to dump my ash on nearby grass.

I was thinking the same thing as the OP has not confirmed the state of the lift pump. If in doubt replace, easy enough and cheap enough. Just make sure the arm/shoe fits on top of the cam lobe, and doesn't go under. Pleasure, I have no idea where I found them.

I have put 2 of the files I have here. https://we.tl/t-hWMS3qNN9c I hope these help

I have a copy of CAV_DPA_Workshop_Manual.pdf which is very similar to Toby's link. It' seems to have a few extra pages and mentions 1971 but not the actual date of publication. I can PM you, unless there is an repository of documents on this site where I can put it?

And tell us how long it took for the cills (sills) to become perforated with iron worm? 🙂

I think it is a shame they were effectively banned. But I guess at a time whern CO and LPG gas detectors were unobtainium or very expensive. Perhaps this area ought to be revisited from a safety POV. In fact it might be safer for the fridge to actually work, rather than eating rotten food, and accept the consequences? 🙂 YMMV

Ok, so what is the difference of chemical composition between bottom ash and fly ash? I understood the chemical composition was dependent on the source of the coal.

I'm hardly a grasshoppper, https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/coal-ash-in-soil/ Suggests fly ash is used for crops. Most artiucle I have seen say: 1) The soil already contains traces of the same contamiments and contaminents of fly ash is of a low level 2) If you are worried, then use on soil being used for ornamental plants and other non food plants 3) Use instead of salt / rock salt on frosty paths Given I don't snort any form of ash I don't suffer any of these ailments. In fact you're far more likely to suffer these if you over indulge.

Ash is ash, Coal originated from trees and heather so I'm not sure the difference, apart from being less ash that from burning wood.

Are you sure environmentalists would prefer ash from burnt logs to go to landfill rather than under a hedgerow??

Tony, I think it would be useful to comment on the video directly, these are my comments. 1) I would bleed the input side of the fuel filter first to remove air first, rather than just output side. 2) He undoes the damper screw, which I would only use as a last resort, and in my case I would have to re-adjust damping. The video is very dark, and only the motions are shown, not a live priming. I've given up trying to undo the big hex nut for being overtightened in the past and just use the screw on the side of the pump body.

I assume you mean 180 degrees or balanced supply? In the US they have 120V/240V into most domestic properties. Here we normally have a single live wire of 230V. If you want more power then you have two or 3 phases or 230V that some would call 400V 3-phase.

That used to be the case, but I believe this requirement was deprecated in recent wiring regs.

What's the return temperature like? If low, perhaps this is more of a blockage or constriction in flow? What temp thermostat do you use? What is the temperature of water leaving the thermostat housing. I would wager any B-series pulley would fit unless there have been other mods to the crank - pulley system.

I bow to your experience, however even you own training website advises differently: http://www.tb-training.co.uk/17Bdomwat.html I believe the flap valve I have is unsprung, it hasn't failed me yet! They are a little specialised and not the sort of thing to find in your local Screwfix.

Mine has a flap valve to stop the thermo-syphoning. Whether any syphoning action takes place will be determined by the relative heights of the calorifier vs engine. I can't see it makes much difference whether a connection is made to the top or bottom of the calorifier.

When the water initiailly enters the calorifier I would agree, but now the the water leaving the calorifier would be hotter than if it left the bottom.