Tony Brooks

Oh dear. That is the ONLY 1.5 that I have seen that uses the engine water pump to drive the Jabsco. it is very non-standard and will need a new pulley or drive adaptor machining. I would point out that his front engine mounting is very different to yours and this may make fabricating a bracket for yours more difficult.

You can't fit a bonding strap to the moving part of the pressure cap to which you would have to fit the anode. It is the only part that would allow the anode to poke down through the filler hole. It is possible that this particular engine only has a non-pressurised cap fitted and if so your idea would work because there are no moving parts and typically just a rubber seal. In the late 60s/early 70s 62C stats were available but now direct raw water cooling of marinised industrial/automotive engines is virtually obsolete I expect it will be difficult to find such a low temperature thermostat. You may have r run without a thermostat.

Why are you looking at vehicle parts for a boat? It is likely to have a small drain hole in the case that may leak fumes into the boa with a dry exhaust or water on a wet exhaust. You need to be very clear about what type of cooling and exhaust system you intend to fit before anyone can tell you where the inlet and outlet pipes are. There may be one pair or two pairs. You should know this now you have links to my site than goes some way to explaining cooling systems and I have explained it to you before (twice I think). Its a Fanken engine and I would be walking away.

1. There is no way I can see of using the ENGINE water pump, as opposed to a self priming Jabsco type, to run raw water cooling. 2. Any anode has to be in very good electrical contact with what it is supposed to be protecting. I very much doubt you would get a good, long term, electrical contact by fitting one to the moving part of the pressure cap because it is spring loaded and moves up and down in use.at could be used. There may also be another at the back of the head. They are often blanked with a hexagon screw plug. You do not need an anode in a keel cooler or heat exchanger system because the corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze will do the job. 3. You only need a cool thermostat in direct raw water cooled engines try to prevent internal furring on the hotspots under high power/speed.. This is because these engines run unpressurised. Keel cooling and heat exchanger engines are fine with a hotter stat.

Er, no, a hole saw is one solution but so is a jigsaw with metal cutting blade or chain drilling and a half round file. Probably easier to DIY if you are in London - and far cheaper.

Here you go http://www.tb-training.co.uk/15cool.htm#bmn51 I don't think you found my site, I hardly mention petrol inboards because of the dangers and the vast majority of my target students have diesels.

Have a look at the cooling section in the maintenance notes on my website. Those will give you a fair idea abut the pumps and circuits required. As long as the manifold has a large bore connection and you are happy with a dry exhaust I think tank/keel cooling would be the simplest way to progress but I fear you will need another gearbox oil cooler to allow the use of the required large bore hoses.

The bubbles would make me suspect the start of a shorting cell but 3 days and just dropped between 0.1 and 0.2 volts does not go along with that, if it is bubbling I would have expected a larger drop. i would have expected any gassing from over voltage to have got out within a day or so. Why do you suspect overcharging? what was the maximum voltage. A shorting cell will gas cause gassing undercharge and might may someone suspect it is over-voltage.

Hang on, I ma not sure in the ally profiles are to a standard size but I thnink it is the dimensions of the part that fits into the cabin side that is important, not so much the overall size of the flange.

Well, there must have been something wrong with the 20 odd hire cruisers that ran keel cooling with just the standard Bowman type manifold cum header tank that was less voluminous than the one in the video that ran perfectly happily without an external expansion tank. There is no raw water pump on the video and no bracket for it, even if it was one of the few with the raw water pump bodged onto the timing cover you would see it on the video. Over thousands of marinised 1.5s it has been shown that the engine water pump is more that capable of circulating coolant through a heat exchanger skin tank or keel cooler. Any direct raw water, wet exhaust or heat exchanger system needs an additional raw water pump and its size (that is output) has to be matched to the degree of cooling required. Heat exchangers have a whole bundle of parallel tubes so taken together they probably have a larger cross sectional area than the hose/pipe supplying them. Skin tank and keel coolers do not need a raw water pump unless its for a wet exhaust. Direct raw water cooling normally has similar sized pipes/hoses to those used for raw water in heat exchanger systems. An ENGINE water pump can not self prime so it can't really be used for raw water. By the way, if you do go for raw water cooling you should fit a bypass so the pump output can't force the thermostat open when it needs to be closed. The standard Newage/Tempest one had a PRV on the bypass so it only opened when the stat was closed. No, somehow the forum deleted most of an incomplete post. I thought i had deleted it but obviously not.

nd

I suspect we need to know what PC and the operating seem you are using. There are a number of lightweight image editing programs but on many to change a background will require a lot of manual use of the supplied tools and one that can do it semi-automatically may be a large complex program. As Dan says you may already have one and look for online offerings, I think Google do one.

Just done a bit of Googling and that seems to suggest aluminium hulls need zinc anodes for salt water but I can see one could make a case for magnesium ones. However, the manufacturer sites do not seem to suggest it. judging by what happens to mag anodes in salt water on steel they may stop working.

You need the bracket as well that bolts to port side front engine mount from memory and as far as I know the pump feet are now slotted and any pump listed as for a 1.5 fits the bracket. You will also need the little front engine pulley and a longer bolt (Faceache having problems serving the video I can't check). I think the difference in pumps may be to do with type of cooling. Keel cooled with the pump just dealing with a gearbox oil cooler and a wet exhaust would be the smallest one, direct raw water cooled a bit larger, and heat exchanger larger again. Providing there is a large diameter hose connection one the manifold and the gearbox oil cooler connections are large enough for the full coolant flow. With that manifold I doubt you will need a header tank you may if you use a skin tank. There is no reason not to use a plastic one if it is needed. The zinc is to protect the engine and as long as you either don't want a calorifier or a cabin heater, or there are two cab heater ports on the head (some have none!) you could fit a zinc in one of those.

Which is basically what I said, a large alternator will always provide more current at a given voltage than a lower output one until it's voltage is clamped at maximum.

I have been pondering what Nick says because given the ability to supply the current at any given voltage it is the battery "resistance" (I know that s not the absolute truth but will do) that determines the current flow. Alternators do not have that ability so we have a charging period where the high current flow causes the alternator output voltage to drop. Once that phase is over it would appear at first site to be a simple Ohms law (I know it is not true resistance) calculation to determine the current flow into a given battery. That would seem to suggest that Nick is not correct and knowing Nick's tendency to be a bit pedantic about electrical things that is very unlikely, so more thought is required. It seem to me that if, as is true, a high output alternator will push more current into a given battery than a lower output one during the bulk phase then the effect of current reducing the output voltage must be less on a high current alternator than a lower output one so at any current the voltage delivered by a high output one would be higher until the voltage regulator actually clamped the charging voltage. To me that explains what Nick was saying is correct. However a higher charging current must charge the batteries faster so you get to the fully regulated voltage sooner than on a low output alternator when it is just the batteries controlling the current flow so the question must be how much shorter will this time turn out to be. There also seems to be a question about the effectiveness of charging at higher currents but I suspect the long low current charging period negates any loss resulting from the high current flow.

On a ground up marine engine yes. On a base engine marinised by a long term marine engine maker often. On all the direct cooled BMCs I have seen then no. They did however change the aluminium thermostat housing for a cast iron one so there were no light alloy parts in contact with the raw water. I think on a single example of another make I found a sacrificial ring around the inside of the thermostat housing but it was too long ago to remember the details.

The only time I saw that happen the boat started to sink. Interesting the OP has not been back with a rough location to see if a member would take a peek. I doubt we will ever get to know what happened.

I suspect it would be easier to fit another one but be aware that the bottom radii tend to differ from make to make. It is perfectly possible to take the frame out, split it and ft new glass but it can be a fiddly job and drilling out screws may be involved. I don't see why it can't be replaced by polycarbonate which you may be able to get cut locally but it will tend to scratch.

I have never seen on on/in a direct cooled BMC 1.5, maybe that is why the indirect version became so popular. I expect the exhaust manifold would go some way to acting as one if its aluminium. The original raw water cooled Newage/Tempest marinisations had a much thinner cast iron manifold. This was retained for the earlier heat exchanger engines with a Bowman heat exchanger mounted across the front of the engine. No sign of that or it's bracket so If there is a heat exchanger core it is inside the manifold. If it is heat exchanger cooled the heat exchanger will be in the exhaust manifold and I would expect one large hose connection on it, probably underneath, and two small hose connections. I am not familiar with that manifold and suspect it is not a Newage/Tempest one. There is a hint of a "swelling bottom front of the manifold that may be a hose connection. If it is keel cooled the gearbox oil cooler should be connected to the inlet for the engine water pump by a large hose (say 1.25" roughly). The video seems to show a much smaller one, more like the expected raw water size, leaving the oil cooler. The oil cooler needs to be in the cooler return from the keel cooler. The hose on the engine water pump is larger as I would expect but runs vertically downwards to goodness knows where. I can't see a large hot water outlet from the manifold. The exhaust mixing elbow may well be a home made/locally fabricated job. The original Newage/Tempest ones were cast iron and totally different. With no raw water pump and that elbow I suspect its is very much a bitsa, especially with the bodged rear mounting system.

That will be determined by the diameter of the exhaust outlet elbow, and as the one in the vid is for a wet exhaust and there is no raw water pump on the engine (as far as I can see) you will probably want another elbow. It will also ned to match the exhaust skin fitting or exhaust roof stack and any silencer you intend to use.

I have heard of the odd such scheme and they have all ended up in tears for either the owner or the renter. They have all been unofficial private arrangements sometimes by word of mouth. To run such a scheme would need the boat built to and examined to a higher BSS standard than a private boat, the license and insurance would probably have to be more expensive as well so I think you will have problems finding an official scheme and if you go down the unofficial route may loose money.

Apart from the fact it is only 22mm pipe I can't see why it would not work. Some say 22mm is sufficient but I understand it needed 28mm plus. Do you have a sketch of how it was laid out? Is there any chance you did not pre-mix the antifreeze and water before filling the system. If you did not that may very well prevent gravity circulation.